^I was thinking the same when I had to add a generic A/C condenser to restore the A/C on my FD. What I ended up doing is buying some rubber sheet from McMaster-Carr, 3/16' or 1/4" thick IIRC, and then cut out a bunch of isolator washers from that rubber stock using a 1" hole saw that had a 1/4" pilot hole bit. Ended up with a stack of 1" OD isolator washers that fit over my M6 mounting hardware.

 

Make sure you still have room for the brake booster line.

 

so funny you bring this up. I've been thinking about how I want to go about doing this, and it's the main reason i haven't powder coated the UIM yet. So far as I can tell the Cosmo doesn't have a brake booster and such no provisions for running a vac line to one. I've been thinking this little depression in the casting would be a good place to drill and tap for a barb fitting. it would be a straight shot right to the booster.


In other news. fuel system is pretty much complete. The last piece of the puzzle was the fuel pump. I got one of the aeromotive 340 stealth in tank pump. I think we'll all agree that running an aftermarket pump on the stock wiring is like playing with fire. In fact the wiring on my stock harness was already showing signs of overheating on the stock pump. So I went on the hunt for passthru connectors. I just can't believe the price companies pay for a stud and 2 pieces of teflon. So I opted to be cheap and make my own. Here's the studs before nickel plating:


after nickel plating and with the rest of the fabricated parts.


all installed



Some sharpie marker makes the wiring clear.


all installed with new soft lines. Just need to wire it up when I do the ECU wiring.

 

Back with more fun. The RW kit, is showing it's price tag a little. Went to go mount the fans to the radiator, and NOTHING lined up.
The pins didn't line up, nor would they EVER fit in those openings.


No way to get the fans over the inlet neck, and even if they did not a single bolt hole lined up



So I ended up lopping off the bottom tab mounts and extending the openings in the fan shroud to fit. I made a new bracket to secure the bottom of the fans It had to be removable so you can slide the fans up under the inlet neck. Not fancy, but it actually works.


Also I fully intend on having working AC, so I added a few mounts for an RX8 condenser
.

 

small weekend update. I'm waiting for quite a few parts to come in so it was chance to get a few small things done. Finally got the FPR bracket machined.







Fits like a glove.


The other thing was to relocate the relay box. I'll have to relocate the battery anyway, so this seemed like a good spot for it. It should be out of the way for the water pump lines. Still playing around with the mounting brackets. I'm hoping I can get the rear mount to hold the fuse block as well.


Front mount done with the harness re routed.

 

cool things happening this week. I decided to get serious about mounting the PS and AC pumps. The 3d printed parts looked pretty good so I pulled the trigger on some laser cut parts and machined the other brackets. One thing I've learned about ordering parts, is always order 2 in case you bugger up the first one.




test fit went well so it was time to powder coat and test fit the parts. AC installed and so is the PS bracket.


PS installed.


The other cool thing, is I got that 4" to 3" 90 degree adapter made. Well in reality I didn't make it, and I'll give @Pete_89T2 the credit for the idea. I decided to see how much having the part 3d printed in metal would be. Checked Xeometry and it was $1000 which was very disheartening, but for sh*ts and giggles, decided to check a few other places and low and behold, it was actually cheaper than i can but the raw stock if I wanted to machine it. Behold the 3d printed goodness...




welds great too. the material is advertised as being as close to 6061 as you can get printing.


this...is going to be good....

 

Looking excellent as always! Might have missed it - is that the Rx8 AC compressor?

Also, how was Xometry to work with? I have used Sendcutsend for a bunch of sheet parts, but have been wanting to go further down the rabbit hole with some CNC'd 3D goodness and they seem to be the ones to go with.

 

yeah, it's an RX8 compressor. I assume i'll have to make custom lines for it anyways, so might as well use some more modern tech.

I did not end up ordering it from xeometry. They were 10X the price of the other places i looked. PCBway had good prices, but I ended up ordering from in3dtec.

I'll also say, if you're parts are small-ish, i'm always looking for fun parts to machine

 

I might just have to take you up on that!

 

weekend update. Got a good amount of things addressed.

batter relocation started. I don't generally like buying kits, but the JP3 kit did everything that I wanted right out of the box.


PS and AC mount is just about done


now with idler pulleys form a Mazda5.


finally got the turbo and heater core coolant return hoses run to the radiator


Also got the water pump roughly where I want it. Still need to fab a mount, but it's going to be here-ish




Just enough room to sneak the hose thru


Also got the water pump adapter started. The intent will be to machine it all and weld it together.


Here's what it's likely to look like when it's all done.


Also got to something I've been putting off for far too long. Mounting the coil packs. Here's my best solution so far. Will require a custom oil filler neck, but that's not so bad.



Oh....and I got the ECU on order. Went with the Link G4X fury. Things are starting to come together!

 

Nice progress! You're such an overachiever. Making me feel like a slacker.

 

DAYUM, you've been busy! Great progress, and wise choice on the Link G4X Fury, you won't be disappointed!

 

thanks for the kind words everyone.

Not much progress. Still trying to get the coils mounted. The GM DBW throttle body in conjunction with the Excessive LIM don't leave tons of room for anything so it's proving to be a bit more involved than I was hoping, but that's how these types of projects go. I just printed a new itteration of the mounting bracket last night, so maybe today I'll have a solution that works....fingers crossed.

I'm also a bit of a dumbass and wasn't keeping an eye on my welding gas bottle level and ran out of gas mid-weld while attaching the couplers to the intercooler. Of course it's a highly visible area and it looks terrible now, so there's that....haha

Also still up in the air....
- coolant line routing/ swirl pot fab
- AC line routing
- Alternator mounting and adjusting, and by extension serpentine belt length.
- intake and intercooler pipe routing
- and of course all the wiring, including finishing up the battery relocation.

 

Coolant system is well underway.
Finally settled on a design for the coolant housing. I'm using standard GM sensors with a 3/8 NPT thread. it's a large sensor so it had to rotate it around a bit to clear the alternator.


I also have all the parts for the swirl pot fab'd. Started with some 4" aluminum tubing and popped a hole in it for the inlet tube. a standard hole saw works really well in aluminum if you've never tried it.


Machined some end caps as well. Here's all the components that will make up the swirl pot


more "creative fixturing" required


This is what it'll look like all welded up


Also got the coolant adapter all machined up. Ready to test fit and weld

 

I also got the turbo intake pipes sorted out. Still need to make lots of ducting to enclose the radiator and intercooler and isolate the filters a bit.


I'm using the turbosmart recirculation valve for the charge relief valve. There's a machined adapter to mate the stock piping to the valve. Much like the Apexi kit for the REW, it dumps the outlet from the turbo back into the intake


I also got some work done on the battery relocation. Got the 1/0 wire routed into the engine bay. Connected to the JP3 kit and routed behind all the trim.


routed under the driver's seat, and thru the frame support.


Grommets anywhere it's around sheetmetal


and thru the firewall thru a hole that was there from the previous owner. just had to enlarge it a bit. More grommets!


Pops out right by this guy...


Just need to get it attached to the fuse box and I can cross it off the list.

 

I dont think I have ever seen anyone do a twin turbo 20B.
Incredible fabrication work and really cool.
This car is going to be really unique when its finished.

 

Thanks erebus, It's unique for sure. Hopefully I can pull it off.

well, it's welded. It's not pretty, but it's welded...


I also ended up resurfacing the gasket face as there was a good amount of warp after welding. Had to take off about .010" to get it flat again.


Piping to the radiator will be a silicone hose. While I'd love to use AN fittings, It's such a short run I'm not confident I could get it to fit well. Probably should put some type of heat shield between it and the OMP.


I think I'll likely add 1 more fitting for the air vent in the top of the radiator to connect to, then I can pressure test and powder coat and my cooling system will be all set.....Oh wait, nope....still need to tackle the heater core supply line....bugger....

 

Hopefully the coolant hose does not rub against the OMP when it is all bundled up

 

It certainly will right now. I may be able to cut the hose back a bit on the radiator side to get more clearance. Alternatively, a few well positioned clamps may work too.

 

Coolant system is missing 1 line and then I can pressure test the system for leaks! The RW radiator is a triple flow radiator and has a air vent in the center section. Seemed like a good idea to keep it in the even an air pocket gets in there. so I welded on a -4 AN fitting to the swirl pot and replaced the vent tube with a -4 an fitting and made a line to connect them. This is a good picture that shows the belt routing as well.


I still need to get the adjustment bracket finished for the alternator, but the belts very close to the inlet fitting


and the outlet tube


and fairly close to the hose itself, so I welded on a bung to the intercooler and added a clamp to keep it away from the belt



Also, coils are mounted!


I ended up making a flat bracket that bolts to the front and center rotor housings and uses different sized spacers to get them to fit


But it's still fairly close to the throttle body.




It's starting to look like a real car.

 

if imitation is the highest form of flattery, JP3 should be flattered. I like there battery fuse block kit, but given the custom nature of this project, I opted to make my own version of it. Also I'm cheap and I have steel laying around...haha
I started with some super sketchy bending of some steel tube to make the post. the JP3 kit is straight, but I wanted to offset the fuse block a bit to clear the relocated relay box.


the rest of the parts are pieces I had laying around. the base of the bracket is a leftover trans mount I made for my FC's MSP swap. It's always nice to use those old pieces you have kicking around. Here she is all welded up.


All powder coated and installed. The little arm on the bracket is the rear mount for the relay box. I also just re-used the FD battery post, and made some copper washers to locate it a bit better.



also got a belt that fits good.


It's only comes in a 6 rib so a little customization was required.

 

Love the custom work going into this build... Keep it up

 

Thank you!

Got the battery relocation finished today. Not sure I'm thrilled with the cable routing, but for now it'll do. Maybe bending the lug at a 90 degree angle would make me feel better about it. I think i'll also need a better solution for the protective cover, this one sucks now that the cable lug is on there.




Also got the spark plug wires built. This was my first time making custom wires, but it was super easy. Although I do feel a little bad, the wires came in like 4 foot lengths and i've made what are possibly the worlds shortest cables. As a result I have so much wasted wire, but behold the shortest wires ever...

 

mini update...out with the last of the 3d printed parts, and in with the billet aluminum. The alternator is now mounted and adjustable.


The CAS is fairly large and it's a fairly awkward fit, but it fits and the CAS can still be adjusted.

 

I've heard it's better to avoid the leading and trailing spark plug wires running near each other or touching. MSD and other companies sell spark plug wire separators that might be helpful to avoid letting the wires touch.

It might not be a problem with modern spark plug wires, but I've heard it's a thing on older V8 engines with distributors. Ford truck guys claim it's important to avoid the wires for certain cylinders running near each other, even with seperators. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...crossfire.html