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You'll likely need blue fittings for the injectors to sit in (if they aren't the id2000 for primaries).
They run $15 a pair from ffe.
There should be two of those things, each having a vacuum hose coming from that. For a single turbo application I ran it to the intake tube (connected them by a y).
Or alternatively, delete them, remove the oil lines, plug them up with the kit from pineapple racing (~$20 for the omp block off and plugs).
Good luck!
I then heard and smelled gas and realized the fuel lines from the tank were dripping, so I took some pics and reconnected the fuel lines to stop the dripping for now. Here's the actual clamp used on the fuel lines. What do you think of these? These look similar to some Autozone stuff I saw but their quality/effectiveness is what I'd rather know.
Those clamps are fine as long as they were installed properly and are good quality brand, they are meant for connecting AN hose to hard line. I'm using the same clamp on my feed and return braided line, but I got my clamps from Fragola.
Originally Posted by Nemo128
I pulled off an existing injector and am concerned now.
I'm concerned that I actually needed the 10mm injectors and got the 14mm injectors. I don't have my caliper handy, but I think the difference is obvious. Lastly, I have been trying to figure out what to do about this.
Try contacting CJ Motorsport about the injector, they should be able to tell you what needs to be done to run ID injector with their rails. I think you might have to cut the bottom black hard plastic O-ring off for the injector to sit further down, but give CJM a call, they should be able to help you out.
I believe its that plastic bit on the bottom of the injector, below the o-ring that is causing your issues.
Depending on the setup, you either need to cut that black bit off and replace with two smaller o-rings (like the FFE setup), or use a "denso cushion" on the bottom if its got the stock "inserts" in the lower intake manifold.
heres a pic i took recently when I did mine..
Injector during trimming,
injector with o-ring and plastic seat removed;
now with the two new o-rings installed
Im not telling you to do this to your injectors (do your research first!!), im just saying that its highly likely there is a minor piece of the equation missing.
I think you need either some lower intake manifold inserts (like the FFE ones, or CJM ones to match your rail). what I did to my injectors above makes them compatible with the FFE is inserts)
Don't get too disheartened. Although it can seem intimidating if you don't know what they are, a couple of vacuum hoses needing connecting for the OMP is a small issue. And we are here to help you through these issues.
Once you sort out those lower inserts (which i think cost $15?), you should be set in that respect.
If the rail height is still not correct you can simply shim it with a couple of washers.
You don't NEED to spend a load of money and go V-mount. You don't need to make it a money pit. Just do things right.
PS. If V-mount is a requirement then iv been wasting my time the last couple of weeks on my build!! Im going to make a scoop/duct that either goes from below the intercooler, or ill put a scoop in the under tray.
Ok, I see that CJ offers a "standard" height rail and a 48mm height rail. I'll check with them on that. The injector does have that plastic seat at the bottom, so I'll see if that needs to be removed or what needs to be done.
I also removed the hoses from the radiator, they're cracked and look like crap. Recommendations on new ones? Get from Ray at Malloy, from Mazdatrix, or is it all the same?
Ok, I see that CJ offers a "standard" height rail and a 48mm height rail. I'll check with them on that. The injector does have that plastic seat at the bottom, so I'll see if that needs to be removed or what needs to be done.
I also removed the hoses from the radiator, they're cracked and look like crap. Recommendations on new ones? Get from Ray at Malloy, from Mazdatrix, or is it all the same?
You will need the stand offs to suit 60mm injectors. maybe that's what they call "standard"? dunno. (or you can get injector tops to make them 48mm)
IMO not much point in buying OE radiator hose. The top one your going to need to cut it anyway to work with the radiator / FMIC configuration.
Just don't get silicone radiator hose. Stick with rubber.
I think I figured it out. The fuel rails on the car were ordered as standard height. It's described on the CJ website that they're for EV1 style injectors, which is what the car has. The IDs are EV14 style, so they need the 48mm rails according to their site.
The thing I don't get is, if standard height is 60mm, wouldn't the injectors meant for 60mm be taller? Therefore the EV1s should be taller? Maybe I'm not thinking about this right but it seems pretty logical to me.
I've been spending my days stripping paint from door frames and working on two motorcycles. This project is getting little time.
I did get my hands on some good lower radiator brackets so maybe I'll be able to work on that soon. Still have about 6 doors and frames around the house though...
I put up a for sale thread. My wife is tired of me having a project instead of something to enjoy, so we agreed I can just get a Vette as soon as this is out of the garage and not taking up space. As long as it doesn't sell though, I'll keep trying to make time to work on it and just increase the price as its condition improves.
I put up a for sale thread. My wife is tired of me having a project instead of something to enjoy, so we agreed I can just get a Vette as soon as this is out of the garage and not taking up space. As long as it doesn't sell though, I'll keep trying to make time to work on it and just increase the price as its condition improves.
Good decision, except for the vette. Get a well maintained FD. You'll spend some money upfront, but will be able to enjoy it.
I finally got the brackets finished for the radiator. I need to order some radiator bushings and the brake booster hard pipe, hopefully get to that today.
I got a response on Craigslist about my ad.
"But you do know that the motor runs for sure? It should startup and run with stock injectors and stock ecu...
But even after tuned with no porting or bridging and upgraded apex seals and internals, it won't last very long before it pops.."
What do you all make of this? Reading many other build threads, it doesn't seem like this setup needs any of that described above. Could it improve reliability or power? Sure. So could swapping in an LS or getting a complete top to bottom rebuild. But, does it "need" these things to not "pop"?
The reason I ask is because I totally don't need the money from this car if I sell it. I could drop a Stingray Z06 in the garage right now in cash. The only reason I don't is because this car is still in there. And the fact is, I refuse to lose much on a car I didn't get to enjoy.
What I'm trying to avoid is someone with false facts offering me a BS price for a car that's worth more. Before getting ripped off, I'll tow it and let a pro work on it or keep it sitting in the garage for the one-weekend a month I get to work on it. I'll be running out of the ideal season for a sports car anyway soon.
I finally got the brackets finished for the radiator. I need to order some radiator bushings and the brake booster hard pipe, hopefully get to that today.
I got a response on Craigslist about my ad.
"But you do know that the motor runs for sure? It should startup and run with stock injectors and stock ecu...
But even after tuned with no porting or bridging and upgraded apex seals and internals, it won't last very long before it pops.."
What do you all make of this? Reading many other build threads, it doesn't seem like this setup needs any of that described above. Could it improve reliability or power? Sure. So could swapping in an LS or getting a complete top to bottom rebuild. But, does it "need" these things to not "pop"?
The reason I ask is because I totally don't need the money from this car if I sell it. I could drop a Stingray Z06 in the garage right now in cash. The only reason I don't is because this car is still in there. And the fact is, I refuse to lose much on a car I didn't get to enjoy.
What I'm trying to avoid is someone with false facts offering me a BS price for a car that's worth more. Before getting ripped off, I'll tow it and let a pro work on it or keep it sitting in the garage for the one-weekend a month I get to work on it. I'll be running out of the ideal season for a sports car anyway soon.
So...that CL guy clearly doesn't know what the %}^# he/she is talking about. Sounds like a guy/girl that wants to pay the least amount for your car. Reliability has a lot to do with maintaining the car.
I think of my rotaries as a high maintenance "high classed" woman (no disrespect intended).
Also, when I get people that offer me some low number and say things like "well I don't know about the motor" and crap like that my response is this, "it's an fd, if you don't like the motor reliability the value is still in the car itself."
Sooner or later some person will be paying your asking price or close to it. Low balling people know the value and just are too cheap to pay for it .
Last edited by Broke_A_Baller; 09-04-15 at 04:47 PM.
When I was looking around under the hood to deal with some measurements, I noticed a part I haven't before. I saw the HKS TwinPower. I guess this is what the previous owner meant by HKS ignition kit.
07-05-15, 12:46 AM
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