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Yeah, good old grinder and flap wheel. Kicking myself a bit because the engine that came out of this car was an auto, plan was to do a manual swap at the time. So when I sent the motor for this car and the silver car to get rebuilt, the engine for the silver car was not usable, so I got a new engine (MT rear iron). So because it was brand new, planned to do more work for higher power on it, vs the rebuild engine for the silver car which only got a still mild street port. So now the silver manual transmission car is getting the re-used auto rear iron, and the DCT car that was going to get a manual swap at the time gets a manual rear iron.
Not a big deal though, was easy to cut and trim. "Should" still be strong enough. There's at least 1 other manual rear iron cut DCT with high horsepower running for over a year now with no issues. I'm fairly certain I will blow the engine getting the twin turbo setup working before I break the rear iron hahaha.
Here’s a good reason why you shouldn’t let a car sit for 10 years with water in it. This came out of the silver 93’. The block was frozen and doesn’t turn over, so probably full of rust as well. Going to hook a hose up to the heater core and see what comes out.
BNR stage 2 upgrade just got here for the SSM car, including brand new turbine housings. I’ve never had a twin turbo FD, will be fun to have a nice sequential set up. Now to get on with putting this back together.
I'm so excited to see how these new stage 2's do.
Can't wait to see !!!!!!!
I also have the xcessive LIM so this should be a fair comparison to the stage 1's.
You will have to bend the engine side manifold heat shield a little to clear the XS LIM.
about to order injectors. I’ve ended up with multiple fuel rails over the years (FFE and CJM mainly, but I’m sure I’ve got some of the old school kind for old Bosch 1600cc kicking around somewhere) and couldn’t remember the injector lengths, as there are multiple options when ordering (60mm, 48mm, 34mm) and design changes through the years. I mocked these up and this combo is FFE 4 port for excessive LIM secondaries and FFE “light” primary. All will use 48mm injectors. I have an old set of ID 725 for primaries I wanted to use, but they are from 2011 so I thought about getting new ones, and unfortunately they don’t make anything smaller than 1050 now. Might go with a non ID injector for primary to get better low end control. I will have plenty of fuel for 400hp on the secondaries (likely 2 of the ID1700xds)
Will also be blocking off 2 of the injector ports on the LIM, I need to order new dummy injectors because the ones I have on hand from ProJay are 60mm vs the 48mm I need.
and here is one Howard Coleman can be proud of. New knock sensors
you are on the money. the manifold, which overall is a necessary and wonderful replacement for the dreadful OE item, is in great need of porting. this can be done by anyone w a Dremel and the appropriate bits.
Thanks. That's good to hear. I ordered the 1050xds and 1700xds. Projay was out of 48mm dummy injectors, so I found some from Race Part Solutions. Hopefully they fit.
Also ordered EGT sensors, the extreme duty thermocouples for nitro dragsters from Exhaust Gas Technologies that Howard has mentioned last a long time on the rotary. I tapped the exhaust housings for the adapters and am just waiting on some 2500 degree sealant to come in (1/8 npt thread in adapters for 1/4" EGT probes from fuel tech). Will be interesting to see how they fit when installed, will be poking through the stock heat shield. Hopefully I didn't put them in a spot where they interfere with something.
the only thing is the current ID injectors are the short-body pintle style now and the wiring connector is positioned closer to the pintle injection end than the earlier long body version.
It may have been my bad not to have mentioned that just assuming you knew. Whereas I can plug the early ID725/1000 long body injectors in directly in the P1 Renesis position, with the newer X version have an interference between the iron and the injector electrical connector before the injection end seats down into the iron fully.
The one REW engine I have has the older ID1000s in the P1 positions. I never attempted to put the newer version in yet.
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I'm pretty sure they will be ok. This is the same part number you can order from FFE. I think I know what you mean though. I have both the purple and blue injector sleeves. The purple ones are for 34mm injectors. So I think what I will need to do is take the top hat adapter off the 1050, which cuts it down to the standard 34mm injector body, and use that with the purple sleeve. This is if the injector electrical connector bottoms out on the block when using the blue sleeve.
edit: I guess I should just read the instructions. They spell it out pretty clearly. Let’s hope the injector I ordered is the version that the hat just comes off and inside is still the 14mm o ring. If that is the case then it will bolt right in with the purple sleeve.
Last edited by TwinCharged RX7; 06-10-23 at 09:59 PM.
EGT placement. I really did not want to tap into the BNR housings, but I just can’t figure out a spot on the manifold that has enough clearance for being able to service the sensors or interfering with the sequential twin turbo actuators. There is a post where someone did it, but that is a lot easier when you go parallel turbos which frees up a bit of space. So into the housing I went.
these are stainless 1/8” npt thread in EGT adapters for 1/4” probes. The cast housing tapped pretty easily with simple hand tools. I hope the sealant I used works, these are in pretty tight, hopefully they basically weld themselves in over time and are leak free.
Yes, I’ve got a couple small holes in the heat shield for the EGT sensors to poke through. I may add some more shielding when putting it all together. Knightsports downpipe has also been JetHot coated and the. Sent to HeaderShield for some extra nice shielding. Headershield said that they typically don’t see any benefit of doing ceramic coatings underneath their shield, but I did it anyways because the downpipe is like 20 years old, and had some corrosion so I had it laser cleaned. Even though it’s some kind of stainless, I want to make sure it doesn’t corrode again.
Nexus R3 and injectors came in. Injectors fine, so no worries there.
Anyone have first hand experience with the newer way FFE recommends to install injectors? In the primary rail, it comes with the purple adapters that basically make 34mm injector bodies higher to be 48mm so the electrical connector can clear the block.
they state to use smaller style o rings and use 2 which I think keeps the body more solid. However, using the rail, once pressure builds up, there is just enough play for the injector to rise and slip into the area of the adapter for the larger 14mm o ring. So I swapped back to the normal 14mm o ring.
any thoughts? I feel like I’m missing something.
You can see how they sit lower, so if I were to tighten the rail, it would raise and leave room for the injector to rise up just enough to slip into the larger oring portion of the adapter and not seal. Same as above with different angle What FFE recommends with double small o rings into the purple style adapter which has a lower section for small o rings and a upper section for the standard 14mm o rings Normal 14mm o ring Height difference that causes the issue. Left is the double small o ring, right is the 14mm o ring. It sits higher because it seats in the upper portion of the purple adapter. Perfect fitment with the 14mm o rings Another angle with 14mm o rings installed.
03-03-23, 06:24 PM
