I wish I knew too. hopefully it was just a typical high mileage rotary engine that was tired of seeing 14psi in the texas heat.

New fuel system, premix, AI ... i am taking precautions this time.

 

Serious stuff you got going on. Keep up the good work!

 

I got my fuel fittings and line. I installed half of it already, but I am toying with a few ideas before I finish it.

Also picked up the pineapple racing idler pulley, but I can't install it yet. The stud on my new engine isn't long enough to go through the hole. Shopping for a longer one.























Getting sooo close to turning the key.

 

That looks clean as hell!

 

She is alive!

I am by no means finished, but I fired the car up for the first time yesterday. I wanted to make sure it would start and run before I began installing the rest of the exhaust, engine components etc:


click images to play vids .... and I shake like crazy, but I do my best:











Idle was high because I had a couple vacuum leaks. I got the rest of the exhaust installed and vacuum leaks taken care of. Idles steady at 800, good oil pressure, no leaks.









My radiator fans do not reach the harness since installing the vmount So I can only run the car for a while, then shut it off. I have heat cycled it to about 90F a couple times just so I could check for leaks and look it over while running.

I have a strange issue with my fuel pressure. My gauge flutters. I can crank the pressure up/down, no kinks that I can find. It flutters between 40-45 psi. I am trying to find a solution, don't want to drive until I know whats going on. say if I crank it up to 55, it flutters between 51-58 or if I drop it down, it flutters 30-35. Strange.


Car is running of PFC base map, the only thing I change was turned of O2 feedback and put in the values for the ID injectors.

Next on the list:

-Fix fuel pressure issue
-make a harness extension for my cooling fans
-hook up vacuum to the wastegate
-wire in the EGT and new wideband kit
-start breaking in the new engine
-relocate the AST and clean up the lines

 

I went for my first real drive yesterday. 60 mile Sunday cruise. Got my clutch adjusted nicely and running on the PFC base map (nothing but injectors changed). Man it feels good to be driving again.

Finishing my battery relocate, have to clean up some more stereo wires from previous owner. Then wire up my wideband and dual EGTs.

 

Sleeper!







Here is a crappy photo of my Wideband kit. I ended up going with the Ecotrons ELM-S. I chose it after a LOT of research on widebands. It basically came down to the speed and accuracy. And it uses the new Bosch 4.9 sensor, where every other kit I found uses the 4.7

I had them modify the kit for me, it has an extra 0-5v programmable output. I will use 1 for Datalogit and the other for whatever gauge i decide to use. Their normal gauge output is 0-1v and not programmable.









This is something I was happy about. Check out these temps after sitting in bumper to bumper traffic on my way home from work. My fans are programmed to come on at 92c, temps never even got close. Keep in mind, I don't have my ac condenser in place yet, but still. Also, the car rarely even hits 85. If I don't get caught in traffic, as soon as the thermostat opens, temps usually stay around 82-83c. V-mount FTW.

 

Don't let Chuck near that Commander, you'll never see it again!

 

Ha, has he been wanting the new OLED or something?

I need to hook up with him soon. I'm a total tuning newb, but I am eager to start mapping this car. Im running it on my old seq twin map right now.

 

subscribed!

 

Updates?

 

^ +1
What have you ruled out for your low fuel pressure issue?

 

Fuel issues are baffling me.

I have ruled out voltage, external leaks, leak inside the tank (where pump connects).

Pretty much means either my Aeromotive FPR is defective or my supra pump is going out. I work for Toyota department for 12 years, I have never had to warranty a OEM supra fuel pump.

I can hear a tapping noise inside my FPR. Might be cavitation causing the diaphragm to slam into the seat. That would explain the fluttering needle and, over time, could cause the diaphragm-to-seat not to seal. If that is the case, I need to find the source of the cavitation.


Fuel pump connection mod:

 

I don't know why I haven't done it already ... Chris @ RP told me to pinch off the OEM return line and read the FPR gauge to see if it registers pressure. Easy way to rule out the FPR. Ill do that when I get home today.

 

Such an amazing build. Keep it up.

 

Great to see the build Monday night Todd -- that turbo kit just looks incredible, A-Spec set you up very well. Looking forward to more progress and proper tune!

 

Looking great. Keep it up!

 

I gotta get that commander...makes mine look so outdated. It looks way better and is actually readable.

 

Is that the defined autoworks vmount??

 

Yes.

Thanks guys. Still more to come.. going to clean up some more wiring and try to get my engine bay looking sharp. Ignition upgrade, AI and a tune are next. Then freshen up the looks.

Your wheels look great. I am trying to find some with a lip that are light weight and won't break the bank.

 

Fuel pressure is rock solid ... issue resolved.

Never overlook the simple things. My gauge was defective. New gauge, fuel pressure is good. I can crank it from 38ish, to nearly 70psi and it it holds steady.

I am still going to at least to the ground wire mod... probably not much need for a rewire if it can hold 70psi at idle.

 

Awesome build, keeping ac??! :[ that was the first thing I took off when I work on the car again.

 

Yes, keeping AC. Its a must in Houston.

 

Cool build! I just finished my single turbo build a few weeks ago. I'm interested to see what you end up doing for water injection as that was a major decision point for me. Which kit to go with, what % meth, injector nozzle size....so many options there.

 

Right now, I am thinking:

Tune without water/meth. Somewhere in the mid-high teens of boost. Then add maybe 400cc of 50/50 mix.

But my mind keeps changing.