Banzai Racing 20B GT42RS 93 FD
#176
Grabbin My Wankel
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Yeah, you really need to think about the overall horsepower here. He's not talking about a 60hp car gaining 70hp from one mod change. Since the overall HP is high it is a smaller percentage changed by the exhaust... Plus Banzai is very reputable. They would never say anything they couldn't back up every day of the week and twice on sunday.
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 07-02-10 at 08:31 AM.
#178
Last edited by GoodfellaFD3S; 07-01-10 at 10:56 AM. Reason: corrected hp from 60 to 600.
You actually made his statement incorrect. It was suppose it to be 60 not 600. I guess it would have been a little less confusing if he had used 100hp. The point was that it was not 100+% increase in hp, it did not go from 60hp to 130hp with one mod. A 70hp gain is a small percentage when talking about a 500hp car.
You actually made his statement incorrect. It was suppose it to be 60 not 600. I guess it would have been a little less confusing if he had used 100hp. The point was that it was not 100+% increase in hp, it did not go from 60hp to 130hp with one mod. A 70hp gain is a small percentage when talking about a 500hp car.
#180
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It very possible. I actually would have thought it would make alot more power then it did, in general. Then again that turbo won't even breath till 20+psi. You guys gonna take it that high with the stock e-shaft? Very clean build, btw..
#181
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I'm well aware of the definition of chassis and drivetrain components and don't need some pile-on dipshit with a sixth grade education spelling anything out for me. Get the heck outta here, son. My point was not to bash the FD or this conversion but to point out the limitations of this car at higher hp levels. The chassis has relatvely low rigidity compared to other 500 hp cars: fact. The drivetrain components are not designed to handle more than about 400 hp. Fact.
#182
We could always put it on a Dynojet and see 600+hp right now without upping the boost. Maybe that is what you are comparing it to?
We probably take it up to 20psi. once the AI is installed. We shall see...
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Ernie - Based on this comment, I'm not sure at what point you believe these upgraded compnents are needed. Are you saying trans, axle, and other powertrain component failures (as well as pp frame failures) do not occur in the 500 rwhp range? It's well documented that they do, that's no "mistake" on my part - I've seen it first hand.
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We are not even close to being done tuning the car, this is just the initial post break-in dyno runs. "A lot more" at 12psi is unrealistic, maybe another 20-30hp.
We could always put it on a Dynojet and see 600+hp right now without upping the boost. Maybe that is what you are comparing it to?
We probably take it up to 20psi. once the AI is installed. We shall see...
We could always put it on a Dynojet and see 600+hp right now without upping the boost. Maybe that is what you are comparing it to?
We probably take it up to 20psi. once the AI is installed. We shall see...
Ernie - Based on this comment, I'm not sure at what point you believe these upgraded compnents are needed. Are you saying trans, axle, and other powertrain component failures (as well as pp frame failures) do not occur in the 500 rwhp range? It's well documented that they do, that's no "mistake" on my part - I've seen it first hand.
#185
Ernie don't pay any attention to this kid. He thinks he knows everything about 500+ hp cars even though he only makes 300. He is even an expert on premix, even though his entire experience with it ends at dumping it in the tank.
Page 5 or 6 of this thread he was trying to tell everyone that the flimsy FD chassis will break.
He thinks that people that know how to drive their cars so that the parts don't break are driving like "nerds". He is one of those morons that thinks it is cool to drive 75 in a 30 residential area. We will hear about him mowing down some mother and her baby soon, just because he didn't want to drive like a nerd, geek, *****, whatever.
I personally don't ever do any 7K drops on the street, even if I did it would just spin the tires.
I agree completely that the FD parts at 500-600 can hold up well on the street, we have plenty of customers doing it. Take a car to the drag strip, you can break parts. We decided to upgrade the axels and driveshaft because we were swapping the Mazdaspeed LSD for the Carbonetic, and were going to have the parts out, so why not? I am still running my original stock PPF also.
BTW.. it is an aggressive streetport
Page 5 or 6 of this thread he was trying to tell everyone that the flimsy FD chassis will break.
He thinks that people that know how to drive their cars so that the parts don't break are driving like "nerds". He is one of those morons that thinks it is cool to drive 75 in a 30 residential area. We will hear about him mowing down some mother and her baby soon, just because he didn't want to drive like a nerd, geek, *****, whatever.
I personally don't ever do any 7K drops on the street, even if I did it would just spin the tires.
I agree completely that the FD parts at 500-600 can hold up well on the street, we have plenty of customers doing it. Take a car to the drag strip, you can break parts. We decided to upgrade the axels and driveshaft because we were swapping the Mazdaspeed LSD for the Carbonetic, and were going to have the parts out, so why not? I am still running my original stock PPF also.
BTW.. it is an aggressive streetport
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 07-02-10 at 02:57 PM. Reason: more info
#186
Eh
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Ernie don't pay any attention to this kid. He thinks he knows everything about 500+ hp cars even though he only makes 300. He is even an expert on premix, even though his entire experience with it ends at dumping it in the tank.
Page 5 or 6 of this thread he was trying to tell everyone that the flimsy FD chassis will break.
BTW.. it is an aggressive streetport
Page 5 or 6 of this thread he was trying to tell everyone that the flimsy FD chassis will break.
BTW.. it is an aggressive streetport
I hope you remember him when he was under a different user name. Pure comedy gold back in the day.
Incredible build btw.
#188
Grabbin My Wankel
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I don't mean to offend anybody, but this thread was made to showcase a 20b FD build by Banzai Racing, so lets keep it at that. There don't need to be arguments. The bickering just clogs up the thread pages.
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Not to get too far offtopic, but 3mm have their purpose. 2mm will seal better and make more power and are better suited for a street car. 3mm are better for a race/street car because they will take more abuse. Yes you can ping either seal and your done, but the 3mm will take a ping and "sometimes" live lol..I use NRS 3mm ceramics which seal almost as good as a 2mm seal. But again, if ceramic goes, your screwed. Back on topic...this build is gonna be great once the boost goes up ..hint hint...
#192
This thread does not need to turn into another 2mm vs 3mm debate, there are already 100's of those on this forum.
If 3mm were an upgrade they would be in my engine. The drawbacks to 3mm far outweigh any positives, they are simply a bandaid for bad tuning, and not a very good one. It is not like I cut any corners on this build. I am running 2mm Super Seals, that should answer the question. I will leave it at that.
Edit: There is a place for 3mm in track cars pushing 30+psi that the engine is going ot be pulled on a regular basis. This is ths same discussion we have with customers that call inquiring about 3mm.
Our opinion is that the extra heat generated by friction and wear on the housings is not worth the added expense in a street car.
Ernie- We will be doing some more tuning after it cools down a bit, it does not make a lot of sense to have it on the dyno when it is 95F+.
If 3mm were an upgrade they would be in my engine. The drawbacks to 3mm far outweigh any positives, they are simply a bandaid for bad tuning, and not a very good one. It is not like I cut any corners on this build. I am running 2mm Super Seals, that should answer the question. I will leave it at that.
Edit: There is a place for 3mm in track cars pushing 30+psi that the engine is going ot be pulled on a regular basis. This is ths same discussion we have with customers that call inquiring about 3mm.
Our opinion is that the extra heat generated by friction and wear on the housings is not worth the added expense in a street car.
Ernie- We will be doing some more tuning after it cools down a bit, it does not make a lot of sense to have it on the dyno when it is 95F+.
Last edited by Banzai-Racing; 07-06-10 at 05:42 PM.
#195
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Yes it is, but the post was from crazy cat from Australia that blamed the seals and not faulty tuning. Tuning is everything. My car makes over 700rwhp and I've made 100's of dyno pulls and as many passes down the drag strip. The motor is 1.5yrs old. That may not seem old to you, but considering I've put this motor through more abuse then most will do in over 100k of everyday driving, thats saying something about the seals and tuning.