You guys need to understand one thing about this situation, the sellers point of view. If I sold someone an engine ad promised a certain condition I would certainly honor that if the motor was DOA. But if the shipper delivers the motor on the 15th and you call me a week or even 5 days later and tell me that the motor is installed in your car and not working, thats another situation.

I totally feel the OP's pain, I myself have gotten ripped HARD buying a motor(actually a car) sight unseen. However as far as the seller knows you could have installed the motor the next day, beat the hell out of it, blew it and then decided to try and cover your loss. You can't blame them.

PS: I actually had this same situation a few weeks ago. I sold someone a cosmo motor that was getting 3 even pulses on each rotor face. The buyer took it home, installed a flywheel, hooked it up to a starter and test the compression at the proper rpm. He was not happy with the compression of the rear rotor and I gladly refunded his money and took back the uninstalled motor in the same condition I sold it.

 

if it was sold as is. you really dont have much right to do anything. was there ANY warranty on it?

thats the risk you take buying a used engine.

 

He never stated sold as is. weather that actuall matters or not. i understand his view point. but working full time, and full time student it took me 2 weeks to get 2 days to work on it. and the only different condition from when he sold it, is it has ben installed and turned over.
just sucks *** waiting so dam long and saving every penny to get my car back on the road and i get sold a turd.

 

and also the fact that he told me he knows nothing about his car, and he had no fuel mods done, kinda scares me too.
EDIT: https://www.rx7club.com/time-slips-dyno-128/how-fast-setup-490516/ this is from when he was doing a build up.

 

sucks man...I and I hope everyone else here decides not to business with this ***** in the future. I have a strong feeling he blew his motor because he obviously (from the above posted thread) doesn't know jack and sold it to you to get the funds to get himself another motor/car.

 

"We have completed our investigation of this case. No further action is required by you at this time. We have denied this claim. As stated in our User Agreement, PayPal’s Buyer Complaint Policy only applies to the shipment of goods, not to disputes about the attributes or quality of the goods received. We have noted your claim in the seller's record. The seller's account privileges will be limited if excessive complaints are received."

so in the end i get fucked in the butt...

no car to drive....

in the hole 1800$......

 

you oculd always go to small claims court, if it is worth that much to you. You have a pretty good case, because:

1--you can easily document your schedule, which would show that the 2 week delay really was for the reason you stated.

2--you can document your compression test numbers--its a fair bet that he cannot document his. This is important in court because you must prove your case to the judge, and by not having the documentation, which he most likely does not, you come out ahead on the comp test itself to the judge.

3--you can show the FS thread in court, so you can document that he advertised this for sale in a specific condition. Regardless of warranty or no warranty, a seller is still responsible for the way they advertise the sale. It is generally understood in most places that what is advertised is what should have been delivered.

4--you could bring a rotary mechanic with you, or get a notarized statement from one, documenting his experience with these engines, and noting both the specifics of doing an accurate compression test, as well as the fact that these seals dont just fall out of the engine during shipping or installation. Without getting too technical, this will allow the judge to understand that this is not possibly just a shipping issue, or something you did while putting the engine in.

5--you can document what you later found about this seller's lack of knowledge about these engines. If you can show the judge that this guy doesnt have a clue, then his statements about how "he comp tested the engine before it was pulled" will be questionable at best.

This may sound like a lot of work, but it really isnt, because you already have most of this info documented here. But just so you know, last time I knew, you were not able to claim lost wages in small claims as a result of having to go to that court date--they dont allow that last I knew. So, you would probably end up having to get to CA, but you have a good chance of returning with $1800.....

 

Just for the Technical INFO.you can Compression test a Motor outside the car..you hook up the Trans to the Engine,put the starter on,and Slap a set of booster cables to the starter..When the starter Kicks over the engine rolls over..you can take a "comp reading" then..I had to do this for Four engines,and was able to find one with Compression in the 100's while cold..Not too shabby..it was a hassle of a swap,seeing that I need to take all my Stuff off the Dead engine ,and put it on this one,but once started it Ran FINE....about your Dilemma,all I can say is I feel for you..I only deal with guys that I see in the Good section..all others are Questionable(sorry.But that doesn't mean everyone is a Scammer),and I don't care to lose any more cash.I only have extra cash from the Guys that care to buy parts off me.it's not Much.but it's hard earned.(but Honestly)...

 

You can do a cold comp test, but the numbers arent accurate.

1) rotary engines make more compression when cold than hot...thus why borderline engines have hotstart problems but start fine when cold

2) rotary engines use an OMP injection system...upon shutdown and sitting for several hours, some of this oil, and some of the oil inside the rotors that the oil scrapers can no longer hold suspended, seeps down to the bottom of the chamber. When the engine is spun again the oil gets distributed and takes up the small gaps between seals and housings, thus artificially raising compression. This is why oil/atf/etc. is used to unflood rotary engines, because it raises compression long enough to let the engine start on it's own. This is how some jspec sellers claim their engine makes more than 130psi compression, when the most I have ever measured in any rotary (with a proper test) was 125psi.

3) with no oil being pumped through the engine, cranking speed is usually down a bit, so you can't be sure the rpm is at 250-260 like it should be.

4) You need the throttle to be held open...many people forget to do this.