this engine with "over 100 compressions" has almost none
#1
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this engine with "over 100 compressions" has almost none
so i got a engine from projectRE on here. was told no problems, over 100 lbs compressions on every face.
so i get the engine in, bust *** for 2 days after work and get this bad boy in.
check everything, check everything again, and everthing looks good! so go to start it up, just turns over and over, does not even sound like its wants to start,
ok so what you need to start, fuel, ign, and compression..in theory.
so pull the plugs out, make sure they are fireing, they are. check the timing AGAIN, its dead on. ok fuel, i pull the line off and bump it, its got fuel. i pull the fuel rail off with injectors still connected. tirn it over they are opening.
so humm its got fuel, and ign.
alright so this engine with 100psi it should have no problem in that compartment. pull the rear spark plug out, turn it over, sounds like one strong woosh, and two weak wooshes. so maybe its just my ears. i put the comression tester in and get one one around 80-90 and 2 around 10-20
well what the ****? that sure is not 100 on all faces is it?
so i make a claim on paypal and this is what he has to say
"Regarding the engine, the engine was tested for compression while still inside my car, it was also tested again before being shipped.The compression test numbers were solid throughout, 100+ PSI on both sides. The compression test was performed by someone who has 20 years of rotary engine experience. I would like to know why you didn't administer a compression test before installing the motor, which means that after installing the motor into your car, anything could of happened because of that I cannot honor any kind of return/refund. The motor was also sold as is and no warranty was provided as well. The engine was also proven to be rebuilt verified by the receipt provided with the engine. I'm sorry your not happy with the engine but I cannot issue any kind refund."
so what you guys thing about this?
so i get the engine in, bust *** for 2 days after work and get this bad boy in.
check everything, check everything again, and everthing looks good! so go to start it up, just turns over and over, does not even sound like its wants to start,
ok so what you need to start, fuel, ign, and compression..in theory.
so pull the plugs out, make sure they are fireing, they are. check the timing AGAIN, its dead on. ok fuel, i pull the line off and bump it, its got fuel. i pull the fuel rail off with injectors still connected. tirn it over they are opening.
so humm its got fuel, and ign.
alright so this engine with 100psi it should have no problem in that compartment. pull the rear spark plug out, turn it over, sounds like one strong woosh, and two weak wooshes. so maybe its just my ears. i put the comression tester in and get one one around 80-90 and 2 around 10-20
well what the ****? that sure is not 100 on all faces is it?
so i make a claim on paypal and this is what he has to say
"Regarding the engine, the engine was tested for compression while still inside my car, it was also tested again before being shipped.The compression test numbers were solid throughout, 100+ PSI on both sides. The compression test was performed by someone who has 20 years of rotary engine experience. I would like to know why you didn't administer a compression test before installing the motor, which means that after installing the motor into your car, anything could of happened because of that I cannot honor any kind of return/refund. The motor was also sold as is and no warranty was provided as well. The engine was also proven to be rebuilt verified by the receipt provided with the engine. I'm sorry your not happy with the engine but I cannot issue any kind refund."
so what you guys thing about this?
#6
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They arent broken theyre stuck more than likely.
Do this...
First, youre probably floded, so take out your plugs and crank the engine over with the egi fuses removed.
Then put either marvel mystery oil or seafom into the spark plug holes, i've always used seafoam. I'd say 1- 3 ounces per rotor.
Crank the engine over a few times with the new/cleaned spark plugs in, but with the egi fuses still disconnected.
Let it sit for a day.
Come back the next day and pull the plugs out.
Crank it over to remove excess mmo/seafoam
put about a teaspoons worth of oil into each spark plug hole.
Reinsert the plugs and insert egi fuses.
Attempt to start engine again.
Then after the engine is warmed up i'd put more seafoam into the intake while it is running to try and clean i some more, not the brake booster line though, that only goes to the rear rotor.
If this doesnt work, then you're screwed. I'd take the engine apart, check apex and side seal lengths, if everything is good use a soft seal kit after cleaning it and replace the short apex seal springs.
Thats the best advice i can give anyone with an engine in that situation.
Do this...
First, youre probably floded, so take out your plugs and crank the engine over with the egi fuses removed.
Then put either marvel mystery oil or seafom into the spark plug holes, i've always used seafoam. I'd say 1- 3 ounces per rotor.
Crank the engine over a few times with the new/cleaned spark plugs in, but with the egi fuses still disconnected.
Let it sit for a day.
Come back the next day and pull the plugs out.
Crank it over to remove excess mmo/seafoam
put about a teaspoons worth of oil into each spark plug hole.
Reinsert the plugs and insert egi fuses.
Attempt to start engine again.
Then after the engine is warmed up i'd put more seafoam into the intake while it is running to try and clean i some more, not the brake booster line though, that only goes to the rear rotor.
If this doesnt work, then you're screwed. I'd take the engine apart, check apex and side seal lengths, if everything is good use a soft seal kit after cleaning it and replace the short apex seal springs.
Thats the best advice i can give anyone with an engine in that situation.
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#11
Wow.. that sucks man, I think you'll be ok though if you used paypal.. if he stays un-responsive to him fixing it just escalate and state your case. paypal will probably make you return the engine to the guy(taking it out again) but they will refund the money(buyer protection) after you return it.So, all you probably lost was a little time. Do us a favor as well and put the guys seller ID on here, so we know not to buy from the guy.
#13
destroy, rebuild, repeat
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so i make a claim on paypal and this is what he has to say
"Regarding the engine, the engine was tested for compression while still inside my car, it was also tested again before being shipped.The compression test numbers were solid throughout, 100+ PSI on both sides. The compression test was performed by someone who has 20 years of rotary engine experience. I would like to know why you didn't administer a compression test before installing the motor, which means that after installing the motor into your car, anything could of happened because of that I cannot honor any kind of return/refund. The motor was also sold as is and no warranty was provided as well. The engine was also proven to be rebuilt verified by the receipt provided with the engine. I'm sorry your not happy with the engine but I cannot issue any kind refund."
"Regarding the engine, the engine was tested for compression while still inside my car, it was also tested again before being shipped.The compression test numbers were solid throughout, 100+ PSI on both sides. The compression test was performed by someone who has 20 years of rotary engine experience. I would like to know why you didn't administer a compression test before installing the motor, which means that after installing the motor into your car, anything could of happened because of that I cannot honor any kind of return/refund. The motor was also sold as is and no warranty was provided as well. The engine was also proven to be rebuilt verified by the receipt provided with the engine. I'm sorry your not happy with the engine but I cannot issue any kind refund."
#15
Endure Persevere Succeed
iTrader: (30)
How was the original compression tested? If it was using a typical comp tester with the schrader valve still inside, then it would give a false reading.
Could be stuck seals.
Worse comes to worse, remove the exhaust manifolds and peek inside. Check that you have three seals per housing.
Could be stuck seals.
Worse comes to worse, remove the exhaust manifolds and peek inside. Check that you have three seals per housing.
#16
Clean.
iTrader: (1)
It sounds like 1 apex seal is missing. If there's a way you could look inside then you could check. A popped seal is commonly caused by knocking.
Anyway have the seller give the name, etc. of this guy with "20 years of rotary experience". If he won't give a prompt response, say outright that he is lying, what he is claiming is impossible, and fight for your refund. I mean, this sounds like total B.S. You can't blow an apex seal just by dropping the engine into the engine bay, even if you applied a jackhammer to the engine in the process. If something outside the engine was bent or broken, sure, but not a seal on the inside. You could explain to paypal that this is a SEAL; losing it would be akin to losing a piston ring or headgasket. It just doesn't happen when you drop an engine into the engine bay no matter how much abuse you apply.
If someone with no rotary experience tested the compression, he would get 90 on all 3 faces.
EDIT: Just read about the possibility of a stuck seal from other posters. So I dunno. But seller should at least produce the name and contact info of the guy with all this rotary experience. Answering "someone" is no answer at all.
Anyway have the seller give the name, etc. of this guy with "20 years of rotary experience". If he won't give a prompt response, say outright that he is lying, what he is claiming is impossible, and fight for your refund. I mean, this sounds like total B.S. You can't blow an apex seal just by dropping the engine into the engine bay, even if you applied a jackhammer to the engine in the process. If something outside the engine was bent or broken, sure, but not a seal on the inside. You could explain to paypal that this is a SEAL; losing it would be akin to losing a piston ring or headgasket. It just doesn't happen when you drop an engine into the engine bay no matter how much abuse you apply.
If someone with no rotary experience tested the compression, he would get 90 on all 3 faces.
EDIT: Just read about the possibility of a stuck seal from other posters. So I dunno. But seller should at least produce the name and contact info of the guy with all this rotary experience. Answering "someone" is no answer at all.
Last edited by ericgrau; 09-17-07 at 07:18 PM.
#17
Lives on the Forum
I think you got bent over.
I don't trust anyone's word on engine compression unless I was there IN PERSON.
I can tell you I have $100 billion in the bank - would you believe me?
Last resort - cross you fingers it's a stuck seal, but IME I doubt this is the case.
If the seller was diligent, they would've shipped the engine with oil / ATF in the combustion chambers - read: no ******' way seals would've got stuck in transit.
Wanna call the sellers bluff?
Tear the engine down.
I bet money the engine is no good.
-Ted
I don't trust anyone's word on engine compression unless I was there IN PERSON.
I can tell you I have $100 billion in the bank - would you believe me?
Last resort - cross you fingers it's a stuck seal, but IME I doubt this is the case.
If the seller was diligent, they would've shipped the engine with oil / ATF in the combustion chambers - read: no ******' way seals would've got stuck in transit.
Wanna call the sellers bluff?
Tear the engine down.
I bet money the engine is no good.
-Ted
#20
#21
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
iTrader: (5)
as for your motor purchace dilema.
i got burnt buying struts of a dude on the clubgp fourms:
this is how it played out
i found out where he lived buy takeing his fourm name, looking it up on google, then i found, his e-mail, then my space, then cardomain, and eventually got an city from some other people he sold **** 2, and his adress from my girlfriend saying she wanted his **** on myspace,
once he gave it up, i got a ticket 2 north carolina, which was way less than what i paid him for the struts,
showed up at his house and i got a *** kissing apology, my money back, and the struts, which where god aweful peices of ****(which is y i got burnt)
turns out i wasent the only person that got scammed by him.
that was only 800, i fell real bad 4 u if u got taken for the cost of a whole motor.
but look at it this way, people really arnt that hard 2 find if u really want 2 find them(in america at least).
#24
HSV...i just ATE one
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them shipping dudes must have put the engine into a rx7 and thrashed it to death then pulled it out and sent it to you....
seriously tho- that blows...if sumone did that to me id shove my foot so far up their *** that they could taste the steel caps...
20years of rotary experience could mean anything... rotary lawnmowers, he could have wiped the asses of the mechanics that worked on the rotaries....never trust anyone
seriously tho- that blows...if sumone did that to me id shove my foot so far up their *** that they could taste the steel caps...
20years of rotary experience could mean anything... rotary lawnmowers, he could have wiped the asses of the mechanics that worked on the rotaries....never trust anyone
#25
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that was his first and last responce. his paypal adress is verified so.... and how does this paypal thing work?
"I would like to end communication and escalate this dispute to a claim with PayPal" if i do this does it go in the hands of paypal to decide?
thats the way it sounds.
he lives in cali Sacramento.....
figured he would have responded in here by now....
this sucks im so tired of driving the Suburban. lol
"I would like to end communication and escalate this dispute to a claim with PayPal" if i do this does it go in the hands of paypal to decide?
thats the way it sounds.
he lives in cali Sacramento.....
figured he would have responded in here by now....
this sucks im so tired of driving the Suburban. lol