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Will running Aquamist on car 400-600rwhp?

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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 04:30 PM
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From: NoVA-20109
Exclamation Will running Aquamist on car 400-600rwhp?

I have searched on here but really cant get a solid answer, Im currently putting down 421rwhp on 16psi of boost with no AI,

PFS recommended for me to get a AI to help with detonation control and being that I want to get 500-600rwhp safely for those runs at the dragstrip...

I wanted to know if the simple Aquamist 1s system will work for me...

I normally drive and auto-x the car @ 10psi (10lbs wastegate spring)(boost controller off), but i will be redoing my fuel setup and will need a retune and I want to make 500+rwhp reliably and pushing 22-25psi of boost max setting!!!

Thanks...
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 06:23 PM
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You can make any system work provided they flow enough water. You'll want at least around 800cc at those levels and many of us feel pre-turbo is the only proper way to go with water.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 06:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
You can make any system work provided they flow enough water. You'll want at least around 800cc at those levels and many of us feel pre-turbo is the only proper way to go with water.
+1

also, make sure you beef up the ignition system.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 07:01 PM
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i been wanting to switch my 50/50 water meth set up, with a pure water pre-turbo and a pure meth post turbo.

both mechanical. same way you did it pre-turbo dudemaaan...

seems like the best of both worlds...
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 07:14 PM
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From: NoVA-20109
What kits do you propose? As I think the Aquamist is only good for up to 500-600cc range...
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 07:50 PM
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Do they actually go that high? I always thought they went 350-400cc of water.


As has been mentioned above 750-900c of water is in the right ball park.

We do 2 WI kits. One is a full electronic unit controlled by ecu, and one is a full mechanical unit. Both have similar results. Just 2 different ways to skin a cat really.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by sen2two
i been wanting to switch my 50/50 water meth set up, with a pure water pre-turbo and a pure meth post turbo.

both mechanical. same way you did it pre-turbo dudemaaan...

seems like the best of both worlds...
You can't have a mechanical kit post turbo, the pressures would equalize and you would have no flow at the post turbo nozzle. Only preturbo will work with mechanical setups. But I'm glad I've inspired you.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 09:03 PM
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rx72c, I need more info please???

Dude... what are you running?
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 09:36 PM
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What do you need to know.

The mechanical kits are very simple.

They come with everything you need, we set the water flow rate here for hte HP level you tell me your going to run, and you can change the flow rate later on if you want to increase your HP level. The system varies water flow rate based on pressure so the more boost you run the more water it injects.

Or you can go with an electric kit which uses a electronic water pump, high speed valve, With a 950cc jet you can vary flow from as low as 300cc of water to 950cc of water(i have tested this on multiple cars now and it works excellent using a haltech to control the high speed valve).


BOTH SYSTEMS are PRE TURB ONLY and are DESIGNED FOR WATER ONLY.
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 09:37 PM
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I'm running a mechanical preturbo water injection kit that I made. It flows around 550cc at 20 psi and close to 700 cc at 25 psi. I boost 23 psi on the street with 93 pump fuel.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ater+injection
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Old Nov 27, 2009 | 10:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Dudemaaanownsanrx7
You can't have a mechanical kit post turbo, the pressures would equalize and you would have no flow at the post turbo nozzle. Only preturbo will work with mechanical setups. But I'm glad I've inspired you.
yeah, didnt think about that... and i did base the idea off of your write up. so thanks for sharing the idea and taking the time to write it up... oh, btw... the link to the spray nozzle you used is bad. have another link?

I have the coolingmist set up right now. and as much as i like it. i dont think the nozzles make it a fine enough mist to atomize correctly at a lower boost or with a smaller turbo.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 11:18 AM
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Dude,

Good write up, but im skeptical about the diagram...how accurate is the diagram compared to that of the actual install? I posted the questions concerns on your thread...Thanks...

Rx72, do you have pics of your kit installed and possible pricing and such?

Thanks...
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:16 PM
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The diagram is very accurate. It can pretty much be followed to the T and have the same results. I commented on the modified diagram you posted in my thread, and explained what's going on there.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 12:59 PM
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Thanks for the details...
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 01:06 PM
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screw mi/ai/wi its all about e85 run e85 and all your detonation worries are out the window
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 02:58 PM
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Ill get some pics of both kits.
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 04:09 PM
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E85 plus AI is the way...thats what im doing

9.7 rotors and plenty of boost. still no worries!
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Old Nov 28, 2009 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by sen2two
yeah, didnt think about that... and i did base the idea off of your write up. so thanks for sharing the idea and taking the time to write it up... oh, btw... the link to the spray nozzle you used is bad. have another link?

I have the coolingmist set up right now. and as much as i like it. i dont think the nozzles make it a fine enough mist to atomize correctly at a lower boost or with a smaller turbo.
If you have our 250 psi pump all of our nozzles will atomize fantastic at all boost levels. with the 150 psi pump the larger injectors do not atomize great at low boost. if you have our Vari-Cool, VC2 or CMGS and you have the 150 psi pump you can improve the low end atomization by setting the MIN dutycycle to 40-45% instead of 25%.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 12:31 PM
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Well I'll share my setup, I'll be running the 250 psi pump, with a two-stage boost-activated system, first boost switch kicks on at 3 psi with a 375cc injector (@ 250 psi it will be closer to 550 cc) and then at 15 psi a solenoid-controlled 10 GPH kicks on, all pre-turbo.

I prefer to run full voltage to the pump at all times, with 2 boost-switches. I feel it's a bit more reliable, and at 250psi, I should always be getting good atomization.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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So you turned the psi of the pump all the way up? I've got mine still set at 200psi from coolingmist (factory setting). I'm not sure if it will make it last longer but in my mind not stretching the limits of the pump will do just that and the absolute worse thing that could happen is the pump goes out and boom goes the motor. This is why I'm really thinking about one day going to the pumpless setup.
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Old Dec 1, 2009 | 02:33 PM
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Ok, but when you're running a couple of larger nozzles, the pump won't stay quite at 200 psi, it will drop some pressure because it can't put out enough flow. so at that point it's putting out everything it's got anyways. It's an internal bypass, and once the pump can't keep up to that set bypass level, regardless of what it's set at it's doing the same amount of work.

The only time my pump will be putting out 250 is from 3 psi to 15psi, with just the smaller nozzle, and I set it like that so I can get more flow out of my current nozzle, and better atomization at lower boost levels.

Speaking of which, does anyone know if full pressure is all the way CW or CCW on the screw? *cough* David H *cough*
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Old Jan 7, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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^^month old answer but CW to increase pressure, CCW to decrease
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