sen2two

iTrader: (10)

ok, so i now have my coolingmist kit and am installing it. i have a large turbo, same as a GT42. its a 57 trim compressor and 77 trim rear. its physical size is HUGE. im looking to make between 460-480 WHP. im going to run the boost juice (51% water/49% meth mix from snow performance). i dont have the progessive controller though. so when my AI activates, it will be spraying full out. the switch comes from cooling mist set at 10psi to turn on. but i will NOT be running an intercooler and injecting after the turbo. at what PSI should i set my kit to open up and start spraying???

also, the intake from the turbo will be getting ambient air. not hot engine bay air. but even still, i think 10psi with no cooling is a little to high to start spraying. but if i turn it on at maybe 5 psi...will it be to much and stumble or have problems???

this is my first time with AI...the car will probly need 17-20psi to make my power potentials on 93 pump gas.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

yes 4-5 psi is good place to start.. give the cooling effect time to work. But you have to be keen on you tunning in that 4-10 region so you are not running way too rich and outing your spark. What size nozzle are you running?

I run 720cc of just pure water on 90 octane, coming on at about 4 psi and have run up 17psi. I should be able to run more boost, but havent tried it yet.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

not sure of my nozzle size. its the larger one you get from coolingmist.com in there basic kit. what kit are you running? is yours progressive, or does it come on at full power at 4psi?

SPICcnmGT

Does anyone know what size nozzle comes with this kit? j/w

Nevermind they answered my email about 30sec after I sent it. It's a 500cc. He said this kit is plenty for a 400whp car, if you are looking for just added protection.

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

I'd look at howard coleman's posts. A lot of reps at the companies don't realize that rotaries require different amounts. They guy at snow performance told me 1200cc's was way too much for 500hp on my FD, but its well documented here that you should have that much.

If you are running 450+, with only 50% meth, then I think you should have run two nozzles or a single larger one. And from what I've seen here, when you go over 450, its much better to run pure meth. You mentioned 480whp above, I'd run pure meth and at least 1000ml/min worth of nozzles.

I also don't understand why you want it to turn on so early, I'm not planning to start mine until 14psi or so. Why bother with starting it so low, your tune should be good enough to run you safely until at least 10psi on 93 pump alone. Then you would add meth and even trim the fuel a bit (the meth will compensate for the reduction in pump gas quantity). If you can't run your car reliably at 10psi without meth you need a better tuner.

On second thought, I may be coming from a different angle, mines a street car, so I'd just be wasting meth/water at the low boost levels, if you are racing and absolutely need the extra power at those few moments when you are at low boost, then there may be reason to add meth/water early on. I don't think there'd be a good benefit just driving around on the street though.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

the reason why i want to turn it on so early is, yes it is a track car. but in street trim. also, if it comes on at 14psi, it will not fully atomize until aroundmy max boost wich is 17-20. so whole climb up, detonation could happen.

they also told me its an M8 nozzle. i was thinking of adding a M3 or M5 nozzle to turn on at 4-5 psi (and staying on) then having my larger M8 activate at 10psi, so this way im not spraying to much down low and causing a problem, and get sufficient atomization when im at full boost. since the smaller nozzles atomize better.

also, off topic of when, but it still AI. is there a difference when talking about methonal and alchohol? and would i still get the good cooling effect if i drop the water and run pure meth? they said the pump is 100% meth capable. but that its a flamable liquid and not to blame them if/when it cathes fire.....?????

TwinCharged RX7

iTrader: (14)

Maybe it could catch fire if it starts running really hot? But I think thats pretty rare, and if you run a fuse in-line before the pump that would cut down on some of the risk, I'd think if it got hot it would be drawing more current and pop the fuse. Thats how I'm running mine, but I'm no expert.

I'm guessing you have the shur-flo pump, thats pretty much what everyone uses. Alkycontrol dresses them up a little (go to their website for details) and my pump from snow performance is just a standard shur-flo pump. They seem to be a great quality pump, so I doubt it would catch fire.

If you are running pure meth, you should use a fuel cell instead of a windshield washer type tank. Good luck trying to find a place to mount it, I wanted to hide it in a bin but couldn't find one that fit, so now its on top of the bin. I found a 1 gallon cell on ebay for $60 shipped.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i like 1psi. 1st gear pulls get pretty hot, the sooner the ai hits, the better.

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

what size nozzle are you using? what are you injecting? do you have a progressive controller?

i would love to have it turn on that low, but o heard it has problems when injecting to low...

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

im making my own tank from aluminum. it will be in the engine bay along with the pump.

whats the difference between alchohol and meth? if there is any?

SPICcnmGT

Meth is an alcohol, Methanol

sen2two

iTrader: (10)

ok, just making sure. i wasnt positive if people meant something else when saying alchohol.

stylEmon

iTrader: (2)

i am running two jets. One pre-turbo M2, one post M7. Non progressive, but it's in the works.
50/50 water/meth

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

I run a 780cc nozzle on a cooling mist simple on/off kit at the elbow with just water. I engage mine at about 4psi to give it enough time to cool down the system. Plus, not because my indicator light comes on at 4psi means that the water is entering the engine at 4psi. Electricity travels alot faster than the water so the light will come on before the water even starts to come out of the nozzle (after the pump starts to turn over from a dead stop and build pressure), yes it is a fairly quick system to react....but have you ever watched how boost flies up from 4 psi to say 18psi on a big single...quite rapidly. I dont want to chance waiting until 12psi or so to turn on as it may not get into the engine until 16psi, prefer it to be working long before. Keep in mind i am running pure water and injecting it late in the intake tract so you have be aware of that. If you are using meth you should have a better chance of injecting it later as is it will vapourise far quicker than water and begin the cooling effect earlier. But you need a good full proof ignition to burn this much water. I am having problems with my mine now, maybe too much water for the boost i am running. the acceleration slows at like 6-8000rpm because of the water.

BluRR

iTrader: (1)

oh btw, you can do a rough check to see the flow of your nozzle. I did this t find out mine as I also did not know the size of the nozzle i got when I ordered. Put a known amount of water in you reservoir, pull your nozzle out of the intake system and have it open the atmosphere(with the nozzle still attached) and turn on the system with the other port on the boost switch and time how long it takes for the water to finish or reach back to the point you had before you put in the new water. Divide the amount of water by the time it took and thats your flow rate.