RICE RACING

Talk about your Water Injection set ups and why you did it this way.

* Brand
* System break down
* Injection point location

sdminus

Current and about to be ripped out system

Coolingmist ( shurflo ) pump
6mm fuel line from pump to engine bay
Aquamist DDS3 ( flow meter )
Coolingmist varicool controller
aquamist jets
4mm fuel line from dds3 flow sensor to nozzle
Stainless push fit conectors
1 gallon tank vented to rear underside of car
tank to pump lines in 6mm silicone

Injected at underside of intake elbow near TB. I placed the jet in this location due to the poor flow of the previous system. It was favoring the rear rotor. I repleced the barbed fittings with stainless push fits for reliability ( i had one to many blow off ) The DDS3 was a must after Richard pointed it out to me.


Former Kit

Cooling mist Dual stage (100 psi)

The bone stock coolingmist kit with no frills or fancy bells

Jets located at Post intercooler coupler and top of intake elbow just before TB

I removed the first kit becasue i wanted to get rid of the staged kit but couldn/t find what i wanted.
I'm about to pull the second kit becasue it is holding me back

Scott

BNA_ELLIS

* Brand :Snow performance

* System break down : 140 psi pump, push fit connections, in car led when activated, digital variable controller adjustable between 2psi - 25psi, check valve.

* Injection point location : bend of greddy elbow

Reason I did it this way. I like things that work, and things that are simple.
The snow performance kit is fully installed in an hour, maybe half hour if I worked quicker. There is enough data to prove this kit works. They provide good support.
Price was good. I also like to be different and I didn't know of anyone in UK that had this kit.

hondahater

iTrader: (2)

*brand: coolingmist


Coolingmist ( shurflo )150psi pump
Coolingmist varicool controller
1 gallon tank vented to gas fill area
single coolingmist 16 GPH nozzle
stainless lines in engine bay only.

pics:

ronbros3

I put this on another thread, but HEY! RICE could we do away with the intercooler, or do we need it for cruising, still in vacuum, sure would be simple without all the plumbing, I would guess more experimenting, temps at a plenum, and/or accurate EGTs RON

ronbros3

also somthing I dont particulaly like on FD intake system is the factory and aftermarket is the sweeping elbow, everybody injects the solutions into it,FD, i think inertia of air favors the rear rotor,hence more air=lean=deto, when I can get my pix up, i will show my large plenum before the TB, injecting straight into all 3 TB bores, most everyone seems to ethier favor the upper secondary bores or down low and favor the primary bores of the TB, that can lead to a very non homogenius mix in the chamber, IE. places in the chamber that can still detonate, by the way I never see any topics about the phenominum on rotarys called blowback of the APEX. are we experiensing detonation or blowback of the seal????

Pimp Hand

iTrader: (3)

I run an Aquamist 2S system. That is fully map able just like a stand alone ECU. (Fully load and rpm dependant)

Max flow 620-650cc/min of 100% pure water. Maxed out a race pump with a booster pump.

2x 1mm Aquamist nozzles. (Aquamist has the best spray pattern in the business bar none.)

I mounted my nozzles in front of the throttle body to get rid of the distribution problems. Also to make sure as much of the atomizing process happens in the combustion chamber as possible. Fuel detonates because of heat and pressure. I prefer to address the problem and not the symptoms. IE I remove a lot of heat from the compression/combustion process, instead of making the fuel more resistant to the heat and pressure.

My system is programmed to trigger at about 4psi and as low as 2000rpm and scale up and down with throttle and RPM input. Max flow occurs between 6-7k rpm (my torque peek) and scales with PSI.

And i use a DDS2 to keep an eye on every thing.


My car made 430rwhp (sae) at 17psi. I normally run it at 22-25psi on 93oct with a turbo that specs out around a gt40. I have run it as high as 27 psi.


When nothing but the best will do Aquamist is the only choice. Just be prepared to pay for the best. (my only complaint)


PS. My nozzel on the right flows about 3% more than the one on the left (tested) Just what the rear rotor needed

No_Rotor_RX7

we have used that same aquamist kit before and i must say it's quality stuff!

Howard Coleman

iTrader: (6)

pimphand,

i like your location as to distribution.

howard coleman

Pimp Hand

iTrader: (3)

Thanks. It took a little wile but it just jumped out at me. The only thing I was concerned about was hood clearance, which turned out to be a non-issue. It doesn’t show in the pic but the nozzles are actually angled back to point the spray pattern at the secondary ports.

The next best (IMO) is to mount the nozzle in the bottom of the elbow, spraying up across the primary throttle plate. With the large part of the spray pattern pointed at the secondary ports. This is probably the only way one could do it with a single nozzle. But in my case I knew there was a flow imbalance between the 2 nozzles. So I decided to give the rear rotor the increased flow, since it tends to run a little leaner. However if I were to run only 1 nozzle I would mount it in the bottom of the elbow, since the spray pattern would be more ideal.


Incase any one is thinking of mounting their nozzles in the greddy elbow. The elbow is quite thick 3/8-1/4in thick, or more. So it gives plenty of thickness to thread. Or machine flat so a nozzle will seal. I was actually really surprised in how thick the piece is.

RICE RACING

how is the new set up? when do you dyno again?

FD3S_wanted

iTrader: (5)

I'm thinking of installing WI in my car.

Some of you have intake temp number with and without WI to see the difference ?

Is detonation completly eliminated when using WI with pump gas (assume with normal/conservative timing and AFR)?