FJO sequential setup pics
07-29-09, 11:52 PM
#1
FJO sequential setup pics
Since the FJO AI controller is "potted" I decided to place it above the cruise control on my Touring.
The AI nozzles/injectors were located as close as possible to my SMIC, in the hope of better atomization. More importantly, I didn't want to install a bung on the Greddy elbow. I left a some space so I can re-locatethe air-temp sensor along with a fast-acting one in the future.
I decided to use the front wiper-tank, so I got a new one and due to space constraints of the horn, I mounted the FJO pump on the passenger/left side using two custom fabricated brackets.
I tested to make sure gravity feeds the pump. I also "insulated" any place of rubbing or contact with the A/C condenser or PS lines using some old rubber hose.
While talking with FJO technical support, he suggested using RPM vs MAP for road/circuit use, as water delivery can grow as the RPM's increase plus boost.
He also suggested using the "tach" signal vs. the coil/ignitor signal, as a true tach signal is cleaner.
Due to the location of the pump, I did have to cut a small piece for the lower panel to clear and fit in all mounting holes.
Zip-ties are your friend.
Hope it helps!
:-) neil
The AI nozzles/injectors were located as close as possible to my SMIC, in the hope of better atomization. More importantly, I didn't want to install a bung on the Greddy elbow. I left a some space so I can re-locatethe air-temp sensor along with a fast-acting one in the future.
I decided to use the front wiper-tank, so I got a new one and due to space constraints of the horn, I mounted the FJO pump on the passenger/left side using two custom fabricated brackets.
I tested to make sure gravity feeds the pump. I also "insulated" any place of rubbing or contact with the A/C condenser or PS lines using some old rubber hose.
While talking with FJO technical support, he suggested using RPM vs MAP for road/circuit use, as water delivery can grow as the RPM's increase plus boost.
He also suggested using the "tach" signal vs. the coil/ignitor signal, as a true tach signal is cleaner.
Due to the location of the pump, I did have to cut a small piece for the lower panel to clear and fit in all mounting holes.
Zip-ties are your friend.
Hope it helps!
:-) neil
08-08-09, 11:27 PM
#3
This reliability mod really kept engine temps down while on the track, last weekend.
It was 93-F, and 85% humidity, and the car would do two (2) twenty-minute (20-mins) sessions back-to-back, and the most the water-temp would get on the track was 215-F.
After a cool-down lap, she would be running about 210-F, sometimes 200-F, with 100% distilled water.
We tried 35% methanol, and she ran too rich.
The exhaust tip is looking very clean now.
:-) neil
It was 93-F, and 85% humidity, and the car would do two (2) twenty-minute (20-mins) sessions back-to-back, and the most the water-temp would get on the track was 215-F.
After a cool-down lap, she would be running about 210-F, sometimes 200-F, with 100% distilled water.
We tried 35% methanol, and she ran too rich.
The exhaust tip is looking very clean now.
:-) neil
08-10-09, 07:51 AM
#4
Racing Rotary Since 1983
iTrader: (6)
thanks Neil and congratulations. i would like to post this in the big thread in the 3rd gen section so more owners can benefit.
actually, i would prefer it if you were to post it. the community NEEDS real world testimonials.
link: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
road racing is THE most challenging venue for the turbo'd FD and it is great you were able to tame the thermal beast.
howard
actually, i would prefer it if you were to post it. the community NEEDS real world testimonials.
link: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/making-case-rotary-powered-fd-fix-806104/
road racing is THE most challenging venue for the turbo'd FD and it is great you were able to tame the thermal beast.
howard
Last edited by Howard Coleman; 08-10-09 at 07:55 AM.
08-10-09, 05:50 PM
#6
Howard,
thanks for the kind words.
I already have installed two (2) stock oil cooler.
I'll post a write-up and some pics soon.
An update on the installation:
1) the water/meth injector was turned 90-degrees to better clear the hood;
2) the FJO "blackbox" was re-located under the cruise-control towards the firewall, using one of the cruise-control screws to mount.
BTW: I also just hooked-up my Innovate wide-band, and an extra bung for EGT temps . . .
:-) neil
thanks for the kind words.
I already have installed two (2) stock oil cooler.
I'll post a write-up and some pics soon.
An update on the installation:
1) the water/meth injector was turned 90-degrees to better clear the hood;
2) the FJO "blackbox" was re-located under the cruise-control towards the firewall, using one of the cruise-control screws to mount.
BTW: I also just hooked-up my Innovate wide-band, and an extra bung for EGT temps . . .
:-) neil
08-08-11, 11:34 PM
#7
UPDATE: the last two events (Roebling Road and Grand Prize of America) were both in 102+F (heat index of 110-F)with 90%+ humdity, and I was hammering on the car (stock sequential turbos running 14-lbs).
As such, water temps were 245+F with oil temps at 220F (dual R1 coolers). This was with synthetic oil (OMP removed), Koyo Radiator, 30% antifreeze, factory A/C, and running 100% distlled water.
I then tried it with a 50% methanol and 50% distilled water, and my water-temps went down to 220-F, and oil-temps were 210-F.
:-) neil
As such, water temps were 245+F with oil temps at 220F (dual R1 coolers). This was with synthetic oil (OMP removed), Koyo Radiator, 30% antifreeze, factory A/C, and running 100% distlled water.
I then tried it with a 50% methanol and 50% distilled water, and my water-temps went down to 220-F, and oil-temps were 210-F.
:-) neil
