AI Trouble Shooting
#1
AI Trouble Shooting
So I filled my tank and hit the track yesterday. After a 20 min session the tank was still at the same level as were I left it. I checked all the electrical connections and plumbing connections, visually they looked fine. I checked the in line fuse and it had blown. I grabbed another fuse (of a higher amp rating) lying around and hooked it up. Went out for session two and came back, still no water level change. Re checked the fuse, and it was still intact. Any suggestions as to why the kit wouldn't be flowing?
A couple of notes:
1. This is the deluxe Coolingmist water injection kit. http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/de...20methanol.htm
2. In the off season I disconnected a ground from the boost switch to turn leave it turned off. ``
Thanks in advance for your help.
A couple of notes:
1. This is the deluxe Coolingmist water injection kit. http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/de...20methanol.htm
2. In the off season I disconnected a ground from the boost switch to turn leave it turned off. ``
Thanks in advance for your help.
#6
Ok, so no need to pressurize the system as a first step. Instead I uninstalled the nozzle and checked for clogs. Nozzle was clean. Then, before reinstalling (to prevent flooding the motor) I bypassed the pressure switch and grounded the system. Nothing sprayed out of the hose. Conclusion, the problem is not the pressure switch and not a clogged nozzle. What now...?
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#12
Try this.
Find the red wire to the pump and disconnect from the relay.
Remove the injector from the car.
Turn the key to the car to the ON position.
give 12V power to the pump red wire.
Questions:
1) does it inject normal?
2) Does it vibrate but not inject?
3) Does the pump move for a split second and then shut off?
Let me know.
CM
Find the red wire to the pump and disconnect from the relay.
Remove the injector from the car.
Turn the key to the car to the ON position.
give 12V power to the pump red wire.
Questions:
1) does it inject normal?
2) Does it vibrate but not inject?
3) Does the pump move for a split second and then shut off?
Let me know.
CM
#13
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the relay is a small black 'box' with a few diff color wires coming out of it, the N/O wire from the BOOST switch will run to the relay, the relay will also take a 12v source and have an output to go to the pump, when you put a ground on the wire to the boost you will feel the relay 'click' if you put your hand on it, good way to test that
if the relay is blown i believe any standard 40A relay will work from the parts store
another thing you can do for future is put a LED in line with the wire running the pump, I have a green light that comes on when pumping, and a red one to show low fluid
that or you can just get the clog detector but I think that requires the expensive gauge
Also did you make sure you hooked up the wires right on the boost switch when you had it undone for off season, the one that is set back a little bit is COMMON and the one directly below that is NO the one you use, and the one closest to boost port is NC, you don't use that one, you can also take the wire off NO and put it on NC to test
the NC can be used for other things, when you hit your boost level it will cut ground to something, not sure what you would use that for...
also for anyone interested that kit is 199 from coolingmist directly
if the relay is blown i believe any standard 40A relay will work from the parts store
another thing you can do for future is put a LED in line with the wire running the pump, I have a green light that comes on when pumping, and a red one to show low fluid
that or you can just get the clog detector but I think that requires the expensive gauge
Also did you make sure you hooked up the wires right on the boost switch when you had it undone for off season, the one that is set back a little bit is COMMON and the one directly below that is NO the one you use, and the one closest to boost port is NC, you don't use that one, you can also take the wire off NO and put it on NC to test
the NC can be used for other things, when you hit your boost level it will cut ground to something, not sure what you would use that for...
also for anyone interested that kit is 199 from coolingmist directly
#14
Ok. So as of now, I verified the pressure switch is in good working order and fine tuned the setting for 10 PSI with multimeter and pressure pump. I also verified the proper NC connections for the switch.
KDR uninstalled and tested system. He got the pump to function however, Dave says:
"retested water meth..cannot get to blow fuse...it calls for a 15 amp...we have a 10 amp in it...no draws...no shorts...BUT the pump does at time jump or spike in amperage draw...jumps up to 12-13 amps...I think the pump is going..as everything else checks out perfectly"
Tomorrow, if I have time, I will remove the elbow (as to not send water into the engine when the car is not in boost) and test the entire system under simulated boost. I will look personally for:
Does the pump vibrate but not inject?
Does the pump move for a split second and then shut off?
Does the relay click?
I would really like to resolve this. I'm am really frustrated with this system right now. Everything individually seems to work but as a system, nothing.
KDR uninstalled and tested system. He got the pump to function however, Dave says:
"retested water meth..cannot get to blow fuse...it calls for a 15 amp...we have a 10 amp in it...no draws...no shorts...BUT the pump does at time jump or spike in amperage draw...jumps up to 12-13 amps...I think the pump is going..as everything else checks out perfectly"
Tomorrow, if I have time, I will remove the elbow (as to not send water into the engine when the car is not in boost) and test the entire system under simulated boost. I will look personally for:
Does the pump vibrate but not inject?
Does the pump move for a split second and then shut off?
Does the relay click?
I would really like to resolve this. I'm am really frustrated with this system right now. Everything individually seems to work but as a system, nothing.
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