RICE RACING

Though this would be a good thread for some people to talk about what plugs they use so others can benifit from it.

In my own little world I used from B11EGV to B10EGV plugs (water injected & 10.5:1 AFR's) @ 500rwhp plus levels.

Exact combo is
T = B105EGV (10.5)
L = B10EGV (10.0)

CDI boxes per leading plug with CDI coils and transistor ign on top plugs.

chuck8313BTSDS

Currently running BR10EIX plugs on C12 (108 oct) and water only injection. seems to be running good. I also run in the mid 10afrs. At 22-24psi my best time is 10.8 and mph is 134. 2715lbs turboII. Not a very good driver and my shift rpm is 7200 +/- 200. I posted a pic of my plugs in this section asking if they looked OK but did not get a response.

Rice, have you run leaner afrs on water only injection? any results. Your running pump gas right? should I be running leaner since I'm running 108.

thanks
chuck

RICE RACING

Hey Chuck,

Yeah many years ago (not due to my own consious tuning) I was running 13.xx:1 on water and pump gas only. I personaly dont recommend it but I have done it without issue so ferk knows where the limits are on it, I dont like experimenting with that stuff on customers let alone myself but have done that figure, I am sure it was 13.7:1 as the dyno operator really **** himself at the time. We did many runs and it was leaner on road as I was running even more boost than on dyno on a fuel system that was totaly maxed out.

Am going back to dyno tommorrow with rx2/capella and will back it off a bit and run some higher boost, we will have some heavier people to throw in the back seats adn also maybe in the boot (trunk you call it) + tie down the diff even harder to stop it from wheel spining on the dyno.

How much water do you inject?

If your at about 400cc/min then yes you could back off the AFR quite a lot me thinks since we run that power/boost level and more in cars running stock pump fuel.

chuck8313BTSDS

Thanks for your response.

Now I know I am running to much water. You mentioned 400cc. Well I am running two M5 nozzles with a 150psi pump and a progressive controller that starts at 5psi and full on at 25psi. This puts me in the 650 to 750cc range. I cracked a few plates a few years ago from my lack of tuning ability and that is the reason for me running so much water now.

Going to leave the tune as is and try to run only one nozzle and go from there.

thanks
chuck

RICE RACING

On the RX2 I measured the flow rate at around 550cc/minute @ 20 psi boost, we use 95 to 95 RON octane fuel in it and 10.5:1 AFR's (it would be around 600rwhp in your terms @ 20psi we run on road) it does 522.5rwhp @ 16.7psi on a dyno where a tricked out RX8 with extractors, full exhaust and air box etc does 167rwhp.

The thing to note though I do use a very advanced air/water atomizer that delivers sub 5 micron size droplets and this makes the most of the water I am using, if say for argument sake you cant get proper atomization (this is nothign but a theory) then maybe you need more to do the same job, bit like fuel mixing in poorly designed manifolds etc etc and its effect on power blah blah blah.... something to maybe consider before you go lowering your rate.


I inject 5 micron and its before the compressor wheel too where as you are after I am guessing?

**PLEASE physicaly test your flow rate, I do that to all ones I play around with to verify what they actualy deliver specificaly what qty's in your rev range at WOT**

crispeed

'extractors'

Have not heard that in some time.

RICE RACING

struth mate, I will get you up to speed with all the aussie performance lingo we use for these donks

chuck8313BTSDS

Thanks for the info and I will bench test the (water) injectors and pump before adjusting anything.

thanks
chuck

RICE RACING

golden rule that

I usualy do a 30 sec test and multiply results by 2, use a scientific buret or measuing flask and away you go, nothing like seeing what it actualy has

Infact will share this story with you, this customer did his own instal *as most do* but decided to add a LED indicator lamp to show when solenoid was opening water flow, well upon testing the unit before we did serious tune i had the tank charged stop watch ready and go ! NO WATER !!! Told him "dude there is no water" replie "what, but its been using some" responce "pigs **** mate !" turns out the LED ws bleeding off curent enough to not open the solenoid so bypassed it and all good we had water flow

Moral, test your system for function before you start relying on it, just to be sure.

chuck8313BTSDS

After the install the system was tested for operation but not flow tested since everything was new but it's a excellent idea to flow check these things. (will do this weekend) Also marked my reservoir in 1/8 inch increments and check the water level before each run. Also use a piece of tape to mark the water level since my memory is bad.

Yes, mine is after the turbo.

sorry to have taken this thread off track.

thanks
chuck

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

lest your spanner gets locked in the boot!

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

might not be a bad idea, to repeat the test a couple times too, i'm bad at math....

or do a 2 minute test...