I'm just interested to see what everyones done, and what kind of improvements you've gained.

anyone got FMIC ? what was the gain? pro's and cons?

 

I think the following mods are the only ones of mine which are relevant to this thread...

HKS DP: felt a little bit more powerful (just a touch), most noticeable change was turbo spool noise. This is a JDM FD though - so there was no precat to start with. No negative side-effects that I know of.

HKS circle earth (earthing system) + Splitfire leads: did these at the same time, and they are both electrical mods, so it is impossible to define individual results: smoother through the whole rev range, decreased stuttering on decel, slight idle stabilisation (particularly when the AC was on), possible (but very minimal) power increase. No negative side-effects that I know of (but the hks system is a bit too bling for me).

Apexi Intakes: definite noticeable power increase - I was quite surprised. The old panel didn't look too bad, so... I have to admit that they actually are worthwhile (I generally have a low opinion of open intakes). Negative side-side effects: well, I assume summer is going to have an effect. Noise is annoying, vmhhhhh....pshh, pshhhhhhhhhhh, pshh (if you're the sort of person who would buy an aftermarket bov - then that won't bother you - but be aware that the factory setup can become noisy). Worst side-effect was the 'moo' - horrible (as one writer stated - sounds like a dying goose) - had it at low revs, and a moo drone at about 2500 or so. I hated it. However, it has strangely disappeared (may have been something my mechanic did - but we're not on speaking terms any more, so I will never know). Also - I just don't like the sound of the intakes (general whistly-ness - not just the bov-ish sounds)

R-Magic torque brace (engine damper): instantly noticeable - significantly decreased engine shake, and vibes through the shifter. Definite stability difference with shifts (though I've never had any issues with mis-shifting). Negatives: after a while it develops a loud and annoying rattle. Always has at least a slight rattle. Bitch of a thing to re-tighten. Also, slight rust spots on the brace's brace (which was disappointing to see).

Trust Profec B spec II: pretty much a disaster from the start. At first, when it was off, it did restrict the boost to about 8 or 9psi - which was bloody horrible to drive (I'm used to around 14psi). However, any tuning inputs (gain, start boost etc) never made any difference. Also, later, the restriction @ off position stopped. I have no idea what the go is, and my mechanic (who installed it, it was his first) was a moron. I'll be getting it sorted as soon as I move.

Apexi Power FC: instantly noticeable - the engine just sounded great (really smooth). Haven't noticed any performance difference (haven't been driving very hard though - due to boost controller). Will get it tuned as soon as I can. Negatives: being able to monitor my water temps has made me an even more paranoid FD owner. Also, I don't like its warm-up idling - I don't think it's a negative, as such, but I don't like it.

 

when my car had extend-port and a 3inch exhaust it got 200hp. As soon as i got a microtech and pod put on it reached 220hp. My car is at rotary motorsport getting FMIC, TO4, big fuel setup done, so when i get it back ill repost.

 

same my car had about 220hp when i first got it. then in went the fmic, then fuel, etc ive just had kkk k28 and external gate put in the turbo **** its self it had 320rwhp @ 18psi. so i scrapped that and ive got a to4e/66 1.32ar and new twin plate clutch in the works atm hoping for 400rwhp this time. it was mad with 320 should be insane with 400

 

man at that sunny coast cruise your car seemed to hammer with 320rwhp, 400 will be insane!!!! what shop do u get your work done at?

 

i'd like 300hp in my Series 6.. thats'd be more then enought i think

would like to see how much HP can get out of the std turbo's

not long now till it'll be ready

will have to organise a cruise and meet everyone.

 

Yeah we really need a meet one day....

 

hmm
i got no idea what engine mods it has... but it made 239.5rwkw @ 8.5psi on its first run and 234.3rwkw @ 8.5psi on its 16th run.. just a nice 26deg day... i was impressed..
some sort of garrett turbo, everythings hks.. fcon, injectors, FMIC, boost controller.. everything
alot of bolt on mods plus other mods to gearbox n diff n the like.. its a purpose built track car :/

 

that was only 12psi and my clutch was dead but i gave it some any cuz ive got a twinplate going in. all my work is done by P.R. Performance use to have a shop buth now he just does it on the side for mates

 

i agree, im just a noobie but some 'senior' member should organise a cruise soon.

 

I'm keen for a cruise.. !!!

My car is about 2-3 away from been finished i hope.. its in the workshop now finally getting engine and other bits sorted now.

What kind of HP and 1/4 times should i expect to see with a big FMIC, new radiator, ARC air box, Vented bonnet, Knight sports ECU and cat back exhuast system. ?

guessing maybe 250-280hp? would that be about right? or am i way out.?

-STU

 

a stock FD is proven to do 13.3 or thereabouts - so you should at least be in the high 12s with that set-up. Of course, so much is dependant on the driver (which is why so many owners have failed to replicate mid-low 13s on stock (255ps) FDs

I can't be bothered looking for it now, but if you look through this website: http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/ you will find an article about their project FD. It lists hp gains vs stock, for mods similar to what you have.

 

Oh very good find.. DaiOni, i'll be on here a while studying that write up :-)

 

bolt-on upgrades make a quick car even quicker. Consisting of a cold air intake, large intercooler, 3-inch exhaust down-pipe, 3-inch Racing Beat cat-back exhaust and remapped ECU, this series of upgrades increased output from a meager 218 rear-wheel hp to a far more enjoyable 301 wheel hp--all without taking a toll on reliability or drivability.
COST: $3,650

that answeres my question.. i should be happy if i get around 300hp then :-)

if anyone wants heres the link http://www.sportcompactcarweb.com/pr...05scc_projrx7/

 

Wow, thats interesting seeing as not even the Best Motoring guys with new or run in cars on 3degree tracks can get that. Normally between 13.7-13.9 flogging the crap out of them. I have BM vol2 (92)i think...new FD there got 13.69.

On the other hand 280HP ones with a bit of skill seem to get 13.3's on a nice cold day!!

Not disputing you though......where have you seen this??

James

 

depends on what volume of best motoring you're watching, jim. I had a 96 BM where they tested the R and RZ and got about 13.8 for the R and 13.4 for the RZ (and there shouldn't be that much difference between the two - which is in itself a good example of driver difference). Most cynics agree that BM times seem to be influenced by the particular car that is being featured at the time... I've owned piles of them (the VHS versions, 2nd hand, are only 200-400yen here now), and I think that's a true sentiment.

Driver magazine (japan) recorded a 13.3 with a first release FD way back in 91 or 92. From the pictures in the magazine, they seem to use pretty full-on (and, one would assume, accurate) testing gear. I have a copy of their specs booklet at home (great little 'bible').

0-100 was, iirc, 5.0 (I've seen it quoted elsewhere as 4.9 - but that may well be 0-60mph).

there are reports of lows 13s on stock cars from this site, also (altitude, track, temps, freak cars, freak drivers - who knows?).

280PS FDs have been dyno-proven to be closer to the 300PS mark (as fudging became a popular manufacturer sport in the late 90s) - and that, on paper, puts them into the 12s.

As we all know, though, they are not the easiest car to consistantly, cleanly launch.

 

Wow, they are good times. I did check and , woops, the RZ did get that time. I also agree they get the best times from the featured car. Normally when the FD is "along for comparison" they get the high 13's. I would also think when the car was launched they would of practiced heaps to get the perfect time instead of just running the car alongside others for "drag" purposes. Plus no-one flat-shifts better than Nakia (sp?) Those poor Evo's cop a hiding from him as well !

 

Fitting a 20B

Will be running it naturally aspirated at first, large extend port, 4.4 gears in a S3

Before this, had a 13B Bridgey in it for about 10 years

 

the purpose of my mods is to improve on drivability and improve on it's track performance.

so far this this has lead to upgraded front slotted discs, bendix ultimate pads, aluminium AST, PWR 57mm radiator, AVCR boost controller (keep it under 10psi), HKS dump pipe, Blitz cat-back, boost gauge, water temp gauge, SP intercooler, oil catch can, Re-Amemiya Pod Filter (IC to big to keep standard airbox), 4 point roll bar (in progress), 4 point harness, Rotary Extreme Harness Bar/Rear Strut Brace, and GAB ajustable shocks. And soon the long awaited Power FC.

The car remains drivable whether diving to the shops or thrashing her around the track. I've learnt my lesson with big turbos, back jaring suspension... Though she is too loud!

 

ORX705, what sort of power does yours make at the moment ?

 

i have yet to put it on a dyno to find out. the biggest improvement was the down pipe. should find out shortly when i get the Power FC