Adaptronic WARI won't recognize ECU
06-20-15, 12:58 PM
#1
WARI won't recognize ECU
I just installed the ECU, and initially tried using WARI on Parallel Windows for MAC. When I launch WARI it ways "connect ECU by USB". Well, it already is connected. I hit "set port" and select USB manually. Nothing. Windows seems to recognize that the ECU is connected, but WARI doesn't do anything or go past the connection screen. I assume it was a Parallel windows thing.
SO, I go out and buy a brand new PC laptop (which pains me) with Windows 8. Bring it home, download software, fire it up. Exactly the same thing. Software doesn't know it's there. Tried both the USB and USB 3.0 ports. I launched both the "Launch WARI" and "WARI V10 for e420c" icons on the desktop, similar problem. The latter just says "no ports open". I've followed links to "fixes" for USB drivers (which shouldn't be necessary at this point), and I can't figure out what they even mean (I'm a MAC person, they don't have these stupid problems).
Any ideas? I'm about to get rid of the whole mess and put the PFC back in, it's ridiculous.
SO, I go out and buy a brand new PC laptop (which pains me) with Windows 8. Bring it home, download software, fire it up. Exactly the same thing. Software doesn't know it's there. Tried both the USB and USB 3.0 ports. I launched both the "Launch WARI" and "WARI V10 for e420c" icons on the desktop, similar problem. The latter just says "no ports open". I've followed links to "fixes" for USB drivers (which shouldn't be necessary at this point), and I can't figure out what they even mean (I'm a MAC person, they don't have these stupid problems).
Any ideas? I'm about to get rid of the whole mess and put the PFC back in, it's ridiculous.
06-20-15, 02:53 PM
#2
I just installed the ECU, and initially tried using WARI on Parallel Windows for MAC. When I launch WARI it ways "connect ECU by USB". Well, it already is connected. I hit "set port" and select USB manually. Nothing. Windows seems to recognize that the ECU is connected, but WARI doesn't do anything or go past the connection screen. I assume it was a Parallel windows thing.
SO, I go out and buy a brand new PC laptop (which pains me) with Windows 8. Bring it home, download software, fire it up. Exactly the same thing. Software doesn't know it's there. Tried both the USB and USB 3.0 ports. I launched both the "Launch WARI" and "WARI V10 for e420c" icons on the desktop, similar problem. The latter just says "no ports open". I've followed links to "fixes" for USB drivers (which shouldn't be necessary at this point), and I can't figure out what they even mean (I'm a MAC person, they don't have these stupid problems).
Any ideas? I'm about to get rid of the whole mess and put the PFC back in, it's ridiculous.
SO, I go out and buy a brand new PC laptop (which pains me) with Windows 8. Bring it home, download software, fire it up. Exactly the same thing. Software doesn't know it's there. Tried both the USB and USB 3.0 ports. I launched both the "Launch WARI" and "WARI V10 for e420c" icons on the desktop, similar problem. The latter just says "no ports open". I've followed links to "fixes" for USB drivers (which shouldn't be necessary at this point), and I can't figure out what they even mean (I'm a MAC person, they don't have these stupid problems).
Any ideas? I'm about to get rid of the whole mess and put the PFC back in, it's ridiculous.
Windows 8 and 8.1 Adaptronic Select Driver install
06-20-15, 03:36 PM
#4
I did it once, and am not familiar enough to guide you step by step.
06-20-15, 05:18 PM
#5
Had a friend who understands PCs help me configure the driver and get connected. Tried to verify everything per the RX7 instructions, but the instructions are really hard to follow so i don't know.
Car runs like **** (barely starts) and doesn't seem to run consistently each time I start it. I pulled it out of the garage and almost couldn't get it back in because it wouldn't rev. Overall: I'm extremely disappointed thus far. It's hardly "plug and play." Car started and ran perfectly with a PFC.
Car runs like **** (barely starts) and doesn't seem to run consistently each time I start it. I pulled it out of the garage and almost couldn't get it back in because it wouldn't rev. Overall: I'm extremely disappointed thus far. It's hardly "plug and play." Car started and ran perfectly with a PFC.
06-20-15, 09:08 PM
#6
You need to follow the windows 8.1 procedure down the page a bit...
It uses a bit of the 8.0 sequence but as you noted the settings are different... you'll also need to grab some 25 long key code from your computer, but to get it easily you'll need internet connection...
J.
06-20-15, 10:26 PM
#7
Had a friend who understands PCs help me configure the driver and get connected. Tried to verify everything per the RX7 instructions, but the instructions are really hard to follow so i don't know.
Car runs like **** (barely starts) and doesn't seem to run consistently each time I start it. I pulled it out of the garage and almost couldn't get it back in because it wouldn't rev. Overall: I'm extremely disappointed thus far. It's hardly "plug and play." Car started and ran perfectly with a PFC.
Car runs like **** (barely starts) and doesn't seem to run consistently each time I start it. I pulled it out of the garage and almost couldn't get it back in because it wouldn't rev. Overall: I'm extremely disappointed thus far. It's hardly "plug and play." Car started and ran perfectly with a PFC.
https://www.adaptronic.com.au/wp/wp-...Sel_pinout.pdf
I'd say they are pretty thorough instructions... There are plenty of basemaps out there already which might better match your setup.
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06-21-15, 11:30 AM
#8
^^^
I do. They are "thorough" but aren't written for a lay person to understand what they are looking for—the MOP test is an example—it tells you to look for problems, but doesn't precisely describe in numbers what each parameter should be and how it should react. I think it simply means that the numbers on the "live guages" screen should be roughly similar in/out of the parens, and that they should go up/down in roughly similar amounts when you push the up/down buttons, but that isn't clear.
In any case, even though everything checks out, and this was a custom base map that was meant to match my car exactly, it starts poorly (needs throttle), takes a while to idle clean and never seems to settle at a consistent target AFR, and then without warning (though I assume it's triggered by temp when it's up to full temp), it falls on it's face and is undrivable:
I was almost stranded in the middle of the road as it would barely rev, had no power, spit/popping. I had to keep shutting it off and turning it back on, and then I'd get maybe a few secs where I could release the clutch and get enough power to get the car rolling. Did this a few times to get it back in the garage.
I hot-swapped the PFC back in, starts and runs normally and idles at a consistent 12.0-12.1 AFR.
I do. They are "thorough" but aren't written for a lay person to understand what they are looking for—the MOP test is an example—it tells you to look for problems, but doesn't precisely describe in numbers what each parameter should be and how it should react. I think it simply means that the numbers on the "live guages" screen should be roughly similar in/out of the parens, and that they should go up/down in roughly similar amounts when you push the up/down buttons, but that isn't clear.
In any case, even though everything checks out, and this was a custom base map that was meant to match my car exactly, it starts poorly (needs throttle), takes a while to idle clean and never seems to settle at a consistent target AFR, and then without warning (though I assume it's triggered by temp when it's up to full temp), it falls on it's face and is undrivable:
I was almost stranded in the middle of the road as it would barely rev, had no power, spit/popping. I had to keep shutting it off and turning it back on, and then I'd get maybe a few secs where I could release the clutch and get enough power to get the car rolling. Did this a few times to get it back in the garage.
I hot-swapped the PFC back in, starts and runs normally and idles at a consistent 12.0-12.1 AFR.
06-21-15, 02:28 PM
#9
Any log or base map?
I've gone with 3 different ecus, and by far the adaptronic was the easisest... Never had a PFC, but read some of Chuck's PFC tuning notes, and it seems WAY more complicated and not easily understood to the lay. Looking at the ign maps on the PFC for example, whats with the arbitrary numbers for load, why not just actual load values.
And BTW, if you e-mail adaptronic tech, Mark and Andy are the best, usually a 24hr turn around time.
I've gone with 3 different ecus, and by far the adaptronic was the easisest... Never had a PFC, but read some of Chuck's PFC tuning notes, and it seems WAY more complicated and not easily understood to the lay. Looking at the ign maps on the PFC for example, whats with the arbitrary numbers for load, why not just actual load values.
And BTW, if you e-mail adaptronic tech, Mark and Andy are the best, usually a 24hr turn around time.
^^^
I do. They are "thorough" but aren't written for a lay person to understand what they are looking for—the MOP test is an example—it tells you to look for problems, but doesn't precisely describe in numbers what each parameter should be and how it should react. I think it simply means that the numbers on the "live guages" screen should be roughly similar in/out of the parens, and that they should go up/down in roughly similar amounts when you push the up/down buttons, but that isn't clear.
In any case, even though everything checks out, and this was a custom base map that was meant to match my car exactly, it starts poorly (needs throttle), takes a while to idle clean and never seems to settle at a consistent target AFR, and then without warning (though I assume it's triggered by temp when it's up to full temp), it falls on it's face and is undrivable:
I was almost stranded in the middle of the road as it would barely rev, had no power, spit/popping. I had to keep shutting it off and turning it back on, and then I'd get maybe a few secs where I could release the clutch and get enough power to get the car rolling. Did this a few times to get it back in the garage.
I hot-swapped the PFC back in, starts and runs normally and idles at a consistent 12.0-12.1 AFR.
I do. They are "thorough" but aren't written for a lay person to understand what they are looking for—the MOP test is an example—it tells you to look for problems, but doesn't precisely describe in numbers what each parameter should be and how it should react. I think it simply means that the numbers on the "live guages" screen should be roughly similar in/out of the parens, and that they should go up/down in roughly similar amounts when you push the up/down buttons, but that isn't clear.
In any case, even though everything checks out, and this was a custom base map that was meant to match my car exactly, it starts poorly (needs throttle), takes a while to idle clean and never seems to settle at a consistent target AFR, and then without warning (though I assume it's triggered by temp when it's up to full temp), it falls on it's face and is undrivable:
I was almost stranded in the middle of the road as it would barely rev, had no power, spit/popping. I had to keep shutting it off and turning it back on, and then I'd get maybe a few secs where I could release the clutch and get enough power to get the car rolling. Did this a few times to get it back in the garage.
I hot-swapped the PFC back in, starts and runs normally and idles at a consistent 12.0-12.1 AFR.
Last edited by silentblu; 06-21-15 at 02:31 PM.
06-22-15, 07:56 AM
#10
I may try re-installing the ECU and replicating the glitch, and logging it, but honestly, I'm over it.
And I'd still need to invest another couple hundred dollars on an android tablet or something so I can have water/air temp gauges again.
I don't even need this thing. My car doesn't run E85, water injection, aftermarket coils, or anything complicated—I've been using a PFC for like 13 years on track. I only bought the Adaptronic because my local tuner flaked out and I thought it would be sort of pre set-up and then easy to get remote tuned. For the amount of time I've already spent I could've just trailered the car to another tuner.
And I'd still need to invest another couple hundred dollars on an android tablet or something so I can have water/air temp gauges again.
I don't even need this thing. My car doesn't run E85, water injection, aftermarket coils, or anything complicated—I've been using a PFC for like 13 years on track. I only bought the Adaptronic because my local tuner flaked out and I thought it would be sort of pre set-up and then easy to get remote tuned. For the amount of time I've already spent I could've just trailered the car to another tuner.
06-23-15, 04:54 AM
#11
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Thanks Silentblu!
And thank you Peter for the inputs / feedback. It's really going to be your call mate, from what we've seen, people always produce better results with a system that they are comfortable with.
If you've decided to give the Adaptronic another chance then please let me know (by replying to our email conversation).
Thanks!
And thank you Peter for the inputs / feedback. It's really going to be your call mate, from what we've seen, people always produce better results with a system that they are comfortable with.
If you've decided to give the Adaptronic another chance then please let me know (by replying to our email conversation).
Thanks!
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