What are you guys running for temp correction?
The ECU has the ability to use correction factors for Air Temp vs Fuel, Air Temp vs Ignition, and Coolant Temp vs Ignition
Unfortunately, the base map has all 3 of them at zero

I would expect these values to be reasonably consistent between engines, assuming the same sensor and sensor placement. Anybody have some good values they would like to share?

 

I've attached my current map
I just started tuning it, so it's quite rough.
My boost solenoid duty control is set to 0%, as I'm just starting out and would like to be limited to 7psi.

I've got stock twins/engine, ID2000 secondaries, aftermarket/rewired fuel pump, fuel/oil pressure sensors, intake/IC/exhaust, MAC solenoids for boost control, and an Innovate WB.
I'm also running an AEM CD-7 digital dash in place of the stock dash.
Air pump is gone.
Possibly some things I'm forgetting.

I've copied over the ignition settings from my old PFC tune, along with the ignition temp corrections.

I don't know how I would complete the charge temp correction graph in the Fuel Tuning area
Also no idea how to set up the Knock control/sensing portion

 

Using the default values in the heatsoak percentage map is working quite well for me. My AFRs are within +- .5 from cold start to totally heat soaked. I tested a few different strategies but couldn't find any improvements.

I have not personally found a need to remove any timing with increased IAT as my timing map is fairly conservative, but your setup may differ.

 

Does the modular not have an auto VE correction for temp feature?

 

The ideal gas law is modelled into the main fuel equation, but you can also apply additional trim if required.

 

Id also like to know what air temp corrections people are running in terms of fuel. The base map has it all set at 0. Figured 0.04 (4%) may be a good starting point for 12+ psi below 33c?

 

Enrichment via coolant temperature and air temperature are incredibly important... Oh well, did anyone consult the instruction manual?

 

Manifold heat soak article by Andy Wyatt...

https://adaptronicecu.com/blogs/modu...n-modular-ecus

 

Can't watch the video as the work network has flagged it, but I'm assuming it is about a heat soaked IAT sensor the the intake manifold? The simple fix would be to just relocate the sensor to a cooler part of the intake track.

Skeese

 

x2 This is a big deal in the Honda world where the IAT sensor is located on the center of the intake manifold runner which gets substantially heatsoak. The more accurate way was threading and sealing the sensor in the sealed airbox. Dramatically improved drivability as I could now see real IAT, not some heatsoaked skewed figure.

 

 

I dont see any benefit from going any further away than the elbow. As close to the engine intake as possible so as to sample the air temp post intercooler, but far enough away to not be subject to heat soak. This is where I put mine

 

Post Intercooler is a great spot away from the heat of the engine bay. I prefer that due to it's accuracy vs. an elbow which can get heatsoaked as temperature climbs up the intake manifold to the throttle body to the elbow. If you run those thermal gaskets like Hondata, they do help dramatically cut down heatsoak, but only last about 3-5yrs of abuse.




I really wish someone made a set of these for the rotary community. I might end up doing it myself... ugh. This between the Engine/IM and IM/TB would be enough to make that elbow really accurate.

 

 

Adaptronic use a blend of coolant and intake air temperature to create an estimated charge temperature value. It assumes that the intake temperature is actually closer to the coolant temperature at idle because the air is moving very slowly. It works quite well without moving the sensor. I believe that this idea was first developed by Ford? Autronic use the same method. You can change the bias towards coolant temperature using a 2D table

 

Yea, just not of very good quality or proper thickness. Pineapple Racing still makes NA 6-Port ones too.

I believe I'll pass this onto one of my buddies who's all about this (and the plastics/material science) behind it to hopefully come up with a better solution. I'd say minimum thickness of 5mm and possibly the use of steel throughout to help aid in strength/durability.