Setting up a base tune on a Fresh Rebuild
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Setting up a base tune on a Fresh Rebuild
Hello all,
Im having issues with my emod009 setup and I've tried all that I know and was wondering if anybody has fixed similar issues like these. Car is a 13b single t4 turbo with emission equipment removed. Using 4x850 injectors.
First issue I cant seem to crack is my vacuum. My car runs anywhere from 800 to 2000 rpm when I start it up. I've calibrated all sensors using my FSM. And I've checked for vacuum leaks 3 times in the passed two weeks, but nevertheless I still am only seeing about 9inhg from my boost gauge. Funny this is the ecu doesnt show it idling at 9inhg, it says something like 0.8inhg. Any tips or reasons why this may be the case?
Secondly, I've been trying to connect my aem uego o2 sensor and I've follow the steps online from the adaptronic page but I can tell if it's still using the stock narrow band. Is there a way to confirm the ecu is seeing the aem wideband?.
I show a picture of what my idle looks like 90% of the time I start it up.
Im having issues with my emod009 setup and I've tried all that I know and was wondering if anybody has fixed similar issues like these. Car is a 13b single t4 turbo with emission equipment removed. Using 4x850 injectors.
First issue I cant seem to crack is my vacuum. My car runs anywhere from 800 to 2000 rpm when I start it up. I've calibrated all sensors using my FSM. And I've checked for vacuum leaks 3 times in the passed two weeks, but nevertheless I still am only seeing about 9inhg from my boost gauge. Funny this is the ecu doesnt show it idling at 9inhg, it says something like 0.8inhg. Any tips or reasons why this may be the case?
Secondly, I've been trying to connect my aem uego o2 sensor and I've follow the steps online from the adaptronic page but I can tell if it's still using the stock narrow band. Is there a way to confirm the ecu is seeing the aem wideband?.
I show a picture of what my idle looks like 90% of the time I start it up.
#2
Full Member
iTrader: (1)
Your vacuum number at Idle also greatly depends on how your engine is ported. For reference my large full bridge pulls about -7inHg at about 2100rpm idle.
As far as the vacuum reading, the onboard MAP sensor built into the ecu is known to be temperamental. It randomly showed +3psi than the actual pressure/vacuum. I had to switch to an external GM map sensor due to this. No issues since then. In the Inputs tab where the MAP sensor settings are you can play with the offset to see if it changes how the car runs. I remember I had to do this to get by when my onboard map sensor started acting up.
I don't think the Adaptronic has a way of communicating an AEM wideband. They do support other brands like Innovate Motorsports or the Motec PLM wideband. Easiest way I'd say is to buy Adaptronic's internal lambda module. Supposedly its one of the fastest responding wide band controllers.
Now you also mentioned you used the FSM to calibrate your sensors, but a much more accurate method is using the Eugene software. For example in the TPS settings you can hit the gas pedal and click "learn" for 100% and 0% on the TPS at the touch of a button. The ecu will automatically interpolate the voltage sweep between the minimum an maximum throttle angle. Also you can set your base timing super easily using a timing light and the Timing Lock function under Triggering.
As far as the vacuum reading, the onboard MAP sensor built into the ecu is known to be temperamental. It randomly showed +3psi than the actual pressure/vacuum. I had to switch to an external GM map sensor due to this. No issues since then. In the Inputs tab where the MAP sensor settings are you can play with the offset to see if it changes how the car runs. I remember I had to do this to get by when my onboard map sensor started acting up.
I don't think the Adaptronic has a way of communicating an AEM wideband. They do support other brands like Innovate Motorsports or the Motec PLM wideband. Easiest way I'd say is to buy Adaptronic's internal lambda module. Supposedly its one of the fastest responding wide band controllers.
Now you also mentioned you used the FSM to calibrate your sensors, but a much more accurate method is using the Eugene software. For example in the TPS settings you can hit the gas pedal and click "learn" for 100% and 0% on the TPS at the touch of a button. The ecu will automatically interpolate the voltage sweep between the minimum an maximum throttle angle. Also you can set your base timing super easily using a timing light and the Timing Lock function under Triggering.
Last edited by Sash91; 02-22-21 at 04:16 AM.
#3
you should get more than .8inHg vacuum at idle, sounds like your sensor is not getting a vacuum signal or it went bad. check the sensor reading key on engine off, engine running and snap the throttle, if the reading never changes i would start looking at the map sensor vacuum line to make sure it is hooked up to a vacuum port with no leaks. other possibilities include a plugged line including the port on the ecu, improper sensor characterizing, or a bad sensor. are you using the internal sensor or an external?
as far as your aem gauge goes how are you connecting it to the ecu? the narrow band sensor has 3 states, lean, rich, and stoich. lean will have a constant high or low voltage, rich will be the opposite, and stoich will show a wave form. if you are getting lambda readings likely your wideband is working although you can unplug your narrowband sensor all together and see if you still get readings, the narrow band sensor is really not needed with this ecu.
as far as your aem gauge goes how are you connecting it to the ecu? the narrow band sensor has 3 states, lean, rich, and stoich. lean will have a constant high or low voltage, rich will be the opposite, and stoich will show a wave form. if you are getting lambda readings likely your wideband is working although you can unplug your narrowband sensor all together and see if you still get readings, the narrow band sensor is really not needed with this ecu.
#4
Full Member
Thread Starter
First of all, thank you Sash and Sins.
Second, I forgot to mention that my engine does have a street port, not anything crazy though. Is 9inhg still too low? I feel like it is based off of my searches.
Thirdly the aem uego is connected to Pin 4N labeled "O2 input 2" using the white wire from the gauge connector. I was curious as to know if I can check that it is hooked up through the ECU. I did follow the instructions from adaptronic sight in the actual wiring portion. I guess I'll do a little more investigating. Also I plan on hooking up the UEGO via serial like adaptronic suggests but I'm waiting on terminal pins and molex connectors.
Thanks sins I hooked up a vac line with a little syringe to the imap and checked the reading after adjusting the syringe, nothing changed. But when I checked the emap sensor it actually did change. Looks like I'll be using the emap as my map source. That should be okay correct?
Second, I forgot to mention that my engine does have a street port, not anything crazy though. Is 9inhg still too low? I feel like it is based off of my searches.
Thirdly the aem uego is connected to Pin 4N labeled "O2 input 2" using the white wire from the gauge connector. I was curious as to know if I can check that it is hooked up through the ECU. I did follow the instructions from adaptronic sight in the actual wiring portion. I guess I'll do a little more investigating. Also I plan on hooking up the UEGO via serial like adaptronic suggests but I'm waiting on terminal pins and molex connectors.
Thanks sins I hooked up a vac line with a little syringe to the imap and checked the reading after adjusting the syringe, nothing changed. But when I checked the emap sensor it actually did change. Looks like I'll be using the emap as my map source. That should be okay correct?
#5
Full Member
Thread Starter
I've got a few things sorted out, the ages are running accurately so I'm happy with them for now.
Bow the map sensor issue, the vacuum port on the uim I was using was causing the issue. I swapped the hoses from my gauge and my map sensor and it worked. So I start it up and it idles for about 5 seconds at 1200, begins climbing to 1800 then the idle drops and the engine stalls did this about 6 times. During start up I could see the map value decrease from 0 (before cranking) grandually to 14inhg then back down to 0 very quickly. I'm at a total loss.
Even before when my imap was 0inhg It still had a consistent idle and wasnt missing. Any ideas boys
Bow the map sensor issue, the vacuum port on the uim I was using was causing the issue. I swapped the hoses from my gauge and my map sensor and it worked. So I start it up and it idles for about 5 seconds at 1200, begins climbing to 1800 then the idle drops and the engine stalls did this about 6 times. During start up I could see the map value decrease from 0 (before cranking) grandually to 14inhg then back down to 0 very quickly. I'm at a total loss.
Even before when my imap was 0inhg It still had a consistent idle and wasnt missing. Any ideas boys
#6
a log of your running issue would be helpful in diagnosing this issue, along with your current ecu file. you may need to zip them up i think the forum has issues with one of the files.
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