newtgomez

Adaptronics log viewer and eugene program now has the ability to playback datalogs similar to megalog viewer. It shows the average AFRs where they are reached along with colors and how much to change the cells to reach close to the target AFR. I used it a little after my dyno runs and it was fairly well designed imo.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Its funny really it took them so long to figure it out, given haltech has been doing that all for over 10 years. You could actually do it on a pfc using mapwatch if you knew what you were doing. Only reason I ended up using MLV in the first place was the adaptronic didn't have something like that at the time

chuyler1

iTrader: (1)

Hmm, I thought I had the latest Adaptronic log viewer and I didn't see an option like this. I'll check out this other program though. Thanks!

newtgomez

If you go into Eugene and select the log playback feature, it will play back logs showing everything and if you hit the "T" key, I believe it will show you AFR difference between what your car did amd how your AFR table is setup. It might be the "L" key but I can't remember for the life of me.

newtgomez

So I picked up an AEM 5 gallon meth injection kit for 300 bucks the other day and I thought everything would be kosher and easy to hook up...Boy was I wrong. So now I am consulting the forums for help with this one.

My problem is that I can't figure out for the life of me how I would go on about setting up a "limp mode" for my car in the case the controller stopped working for some reason.
The signal wire is a 1.7A output when something is wrong with the controller. My first thought was to hook that up to where the clutch switch is supposed to be because my car doesn't have one wired in but then I can't figure out the logic portion of things. Something as simple as enriching and retarding would work but I can't figure out how to make it all work through the software. Running zero duty cycle would also work just fine (Would it be possible to connect the signal wire to one of the wires on my MAC valve?).

My other problem is that I am using all of the outputs for my sequential turbo control so I can't really use any of the common outputs that people use.

I hope someone knows the answer but I'm sure I can drive myself crazy thinking about it. I'll only be using water and not really going for more power basically.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

If not altering the tune for more power and only spraying water... why worry about having a fault trip? I think if anything the first point of failure would be the pump then the contingency case you run dry. I doubt the circuitry itself in the controller is the least likely failure point.

sorry I can't help on adaptronic implementation at this point, only logic.

Skeese

shawnm565

iTrader: (3)

If you set the digital input to read high and set it up to boost 1 2 or 3 an alternate boost map and set the max duty cycle to 0 in the boost 1 2 or 3 in the wastegate section. It will limit your boost down to 0 duty cycle when the pump fails. You can test this by either setting the digital input back to ground input and just grounding it and verifing that your boost is now set to 0 duty cycle or keeping it at trigger high and giving it 12v.

Thanks,
Shawn Christenson

johnq1e

iTrader: (1)

good write up gonna try your "Final Dyno.ecu" to load as my map

$lacker

iTrader: (9)

johnq1e

iTrader: (1)

out setups are similar, plus his boost is at 12psi. plan is to load his map to make car run, then get it to a tuner. not planning to do any WOT runs

newtgomez

Best of luck to you! I think the only thing I've really changed from this map was my transient values as they were garbage. Even after messing with them, it still does weird things. Car still runs it well up to this day though.

Skeese

iTrader: (11)

Hey Newt, any updates? Did you ever get the meth stuff up and running?

newtgomez

I did in fact get it installed and running but the only thing is that the Select pnp doesn't have any spare low side inputs to put the failsafe wire too so I'm just running windshield washer fluid (-20F?) on AEMs 500cc injector. The AFRs got noticeably richer but not having that failsafe for map switching made it so I'm not running any more timing or leaning out the pump gas for more power gains. The cooling benefits are a night and day difference though and I actually get loads of mileage out of the 5 gallon tank. The difference was basically going from 100F air temps to 60F air temp after a pull so it was well worth it. I'm very tempted to run a 1 gallon tank to save some space and to cycle through the fluid more but at the same time, I'm starting my single turbo build as soon as I get back from Japan early January so it really wouldn't make too much sense in changing tanks unless I went with the sakebomb rear washer tank replacement to make a good compromise. If I was to do it again, I would buy the AEM kit without a tank and get the euro washer tank since it has great capacity and doesn't take up valuable real estate in the hatch (I have my battery back there too so it's pretty crowded). Since the Select PnP isn't going to be enough for my future plans, I will be getting rid of it and going with the Haltech Elite 1500 or 2500 (Haven't done the math on outputs that I need). It's the most logical step to gain experience in the tuning world and the Haltech is just too good for the price.

ArmenMAxx

iTrader: (21)

Since my switch to the adaptronic modular, I'm having terrible stalling issues when the motor is cold when coming to a stop. I tried enriching the surrounding idle cells and I'm not seeing any lean condition. It idles beautifully at 900-950 once warm without issue.

Since you seem to really have handle on drive-ability, curious what you might recommend. Tuning the crank/cold start and even hot crank have been quite challenging with the adaptronic for me. I really had it polished with the PFC.

newtgomez

I've noticed that there are quite a few things that come in to play when trying to keep the car from stalling. On my personal set up, I have seen that having a good idle AFR is important. I started out with my car idling around 13.2-13.5AFR (iirc) and had way better results adding more fuel to get an idle of 12.5AFR. I have heard of people getting leaner results by playing with injection angle but I never got around to it. Another thing would be throttle body settings but if you didn't change anything in your switch from ecu, then I would assume it's a tuning issue from the ecu end of things. The biggest thing that will help is adding timing around the idle cells. I have my idle cells at 0 advance and I set the cells where it hits on decel to be around 12 degrees advanced with interpolation from the idle cells of course. This has helped on my K20A with an AEM Infinity too. It just takes some playing around with until you get satisfying results.

One thing to mention is that if your injector spray pattern and flow are down from when you tuned your car, that can have a major effect on driveability issues. When I had to clean my injectors, they were down roughly 50cc/min on each one (I have stock side feeds) and it would cause my car to shut off at lights and misfire at higher loads due to poor atomization and simply lack of flow.

As for the starting procedures, the rotary is kind of a turd and is really picky with starting procedures compared to a piston engine so your fueling has to be spot on. I would try looking at the PFC forum posts on starting and apply theory from that.