Ulburner

I got around to putting my series 6 select in this evening at the shop and driving home. I wouldn't consider my car highly modified (eliminated airpump, apexi intake, JDM downpipe, resonated midpipe, Koyo Nflow, and HKS highpower catback) but it didn't like the base map. I made it about a 1/4 mile before it died. I have read the owners manual several times but it is a little confusing to me as it talked about the non plug and play ecu quite a bit. I was getting ready to throw the stock ecu back in (runs great on it) but decided to hook up the internal map sensor and see how that would work. It started right up and idles great but I did a couple pulls on the way home and it didn't have very smooth transitions between the twins and I am not positive the second turbo came on (I pirated the vac hose from my boost gauge to run the internal map). It would bounch around quite a bit on the tach with the clutch in as well. I know I do not need to run the ECU right now but... My plans are to eventually drop in a set of BNR stage III, a street ported motor I have with a rx8 eshaft and light flywheel, and bigger injectors/ fuel pump and run e85. That's why I bought the ecu. Plans were to get it tuned by a pro once I was done with the mods. It seems to be running super rich right now (when you let off the throttle the exhaust pops multiple times from the unburnt fuel hitting the colder air).

Does anyone have a good working map with similar mods?
Tuning mode is set to Map 1, 2 unused should I be using both MAP and TPS?
Anyone with a stock car get it to run right off the base map without tweaking?

I did the no load calibrations and I think that my clutch switch is disabled by the keyless entry, keyless start the PO installed. I will crawl under the dash and look tommorow (might just be wired to bypass). It only hunts for about 5 secs and then settles down to about 850 rpms.

I do not have a wideband O2 so I think my AFR's are pretty much unreliable at this point (says it's to rich to read).

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

Only 29 posts? Be careful with WOT runs until the car is tuned. Just don't want you to detonate and wreck your motor, turbos, etc.

I'm not too far from you in mods ... read through my thread, you'll probably find a good starting point. Add some fuel to my maps though, they may run a bit lean for you. My tune isn't as rich as the one you are using and your car doesn't have a stock cat which mine does.

https://www.rx7club.com/adaptronic-e...e-map-1033267/

Ulburner

Yeah, I didn't push it very hard I think I hit 5500 rpm on the two pulls just checking to see how the turbos would act. It is running so rich the temp never hit 190 so I wasn't too concerned about blowing the motor. I have read your posts and most of the others on here and a bunch of the stuff on Adaptronics forums. I guess I was just expecting it to run right off the base map as the mods I have now do not seem to effect the stock ecu at all. I swapped the stock ecu back in this morning because I have the same AC problem you had and I have not had a chance to apply the fix (It's in the 90's with about 99% humidity here right now). I think your car is one of few still running twins that I have read about and I have followed your map thread pretty closely. My exhaust is decently restrictive I would guess the same as a 3" down pipe and high flow cat (2.5" JDM DP with a resonated midpipe and resonator is bigger than my HKS muffler). I have never experienced any boost creep on the gauge and have not ported the wastegates.

I don't have any experience tuning. I drove and raced RX7's in the early 90's but they were a 87 and a 85 NA cars. I did have a big pot and air/fuel gauge in my center console wired up to tweak the mixture but that was the extent of my tuning. I would like to learn, but I generally learn better by doing something rather than reading about it. As long as I keep it well into the rich I can't really think of anything I could do to destroy it (let me know if I am wrong). I would like to keep this motor intact but I do have 2 more sitting here if I pop it.

This is also a third vehicle and I do not need to drive it daily.... I just like to...

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

Running lean or rich has no real affect on coolant temperatures. As mentioned don't boost the car until you have a wide-band installed( preferably an innovative unit via serial connection).

If the car is dying is sounds like not enough fuel at idle. Goto the Tuning Tab, and make sure you are in Fuel 1( map selection) and find the cross hairs while idling. Select the Map trace and increase those areas of the map slightly, or where ever the car is " dying" .


I will try and get a stock twin car in my shop to create a better base map.

James Paventi

iTrader: (34)

I sounds like your tune won't be all that different than mine. Maybe your stock twins will flow less than my BNRs and your mid pipe more than my stock cat? It might all cancel itself out. I have a MAC valve controlling my wastegate so you'll probably need to tweak the wastegate duty cycle but that's fairly easy.

I've found that the biggest tuning challenge for me has been drive-ability, especially idle. I've put a huge amount of time into this. Recently I've started adjusting idle air based on intake air temp. The car seems to need a bit more air when the air temps are hot. Without this it starts right up when hot but idles a few hundred RPMs lower than normal or even bounces off of the extra effort that is set up to prevent stalling ... I forget what the field is named in Wari. Anyway, it's not rocket science ... just requires a patient methodical approach and willingness to learn. A few spare engines are good too!

Two things will blow up an engine based on a tune. Leaning it out and aggressive timing. You should be good based on the richness that you describe. Set up a wide-band and log it though. That's the only reliable way to know. As for the timing, I just stuck to what Raymond / Chuck have used over the years in the PFC. They seem to have it perfected. You might want to compare what I'm using to the default Rx7 map or perhaps just use my timing setup. Be sure to set up the leading (big map) and training (smaller map, not much resolution). I'm not in front of a PC with Wari installed or I would be more specific. Feel free to PM me.

--- Edit ---
Looks like Turnblown and I posted at the same time. He's got some good advice too. I don't want it to appear that I'm thinking otherwise.

Ulburner

I plan to get a wideband and AF Gauge in the near future. I have not given up by any means but I got to have my AC. I have a buddy that has a surface mount soldering station at work that is gonna fix the board for me. As soon as I get that in I will put it back in. It did idle pretty good on the internal map.

Do you guys carry the MTX-L at Turblown?

Turblown

iTrader: (12)

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