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Adaptronic Fresh Streetport w/Adaptronic won't fire up

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Old 03-23-19, 10:44 PM
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Fresh Streetport w/Adaptronic won't fire up

I could use some help getting my motor started for the first time. I don't know compression numbers but if it comes to it I'll find someone with a compression tester I can borrow. In the meantime, I don't know if I'm flooding it, the timing is off, or the ECU settings are wrong. I have not heard any sort of combustion. Below are the specs and I have attached the startup log and ECU file.

ECU:
It's an Adaptronic Select 440d. I flashed the unit with the most recent firmware.

Motor:
12a large street port just rebuilt, used end plates and housings but were in good shape, 70k miles before rebuild.

Ignition:
S4 crank angle sensor, IGN-1A coils configured for direct fire, custom wiring harness. Ground wires connected as recommended, sensor ground, rotor housing, and chassis ground (near fender on 1st gen, with a 2ga wire that goes from there to battery neg terminal). I checked timing and it is spot on with the original pulley 0 degree marking. I thought maybe the pulley was on wrong so I pulled the access port to inspect the flywheel. It's an aftermarket flywheel with auto-trans counter weight. The weight is facing the spark plugs. I have pulled the spark plugs a few times to clean gunk off them (vasoline and such from build) and checked to make sure, as best I could, the rotor is facing the right way when the timing mark is in the correct place. Brand new RX8 leading and trailing spark plugs. I've had to clean them off with brake cleaner, then I hit them with a torch to dry them out, and reinstalled them.

Fuel:
Holley retro-fit in tank 255lph fuel pump, 3/8" fuel lines, Fuelab pressure regulator reading 43psi, two ID1000 injectors (no secondaries). Gas gauge reads 1/4 tank so plenty of gas.

Intake:
Jenvey 45mm DCOE style throttle body, side draft manifold. I opened the idle screws 2 full turns and cracked the throttle just a little...I've also been messing with the gas pedal while starting.

Killed the battery once already turning it over, messing with settings, pulling plugs to clean them, repeating. Not sure what to try, but if someone could check my ECU file to make sure I'm giving it the right fuel for startup with the ID1000s that would be great.
Attached Files
File Type: ecu
12A ITB MAP.ecu (8.0 KB, 26 views)
File Type: csv
3-22-2019_2243.csv (246.2 KB, 36 views)

Last edited by chuyler1; 03-23-19 at 10:47 PM.
Old 03-24-19, 04:27 PM
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How have you checked the timing? Timing light whilst cranking?
Are you seeing a cas signal in Wari? Press f11 and it should flash up green lights everytime the there is a trigger if I remember correctly.
Have you tested for spark as in plugs out and grounded whilst cranking?
Are the injectors clicking when you do the injector test?
Have you pulse tested the ignition?
Could be numerous things, get the battery charged up and check these.
Old 03-24-19, 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 97fd3s
How have you checked the timing? Timing light whilst cranking?
Are you seeing a cas signal in Wari? Press f11 and it should flash up green lights everytime the there is a trigger if I remember correctly.
Have you tested for spark as in plugs out and grounded whilst cranking?
Are the injectors clicking when you do the injector test?
Have you pulse tested the ignition?
Could be numerous things, get the battery charged up and check these.
Checked timing with a light, verified as best I could that front rotor as at TDC when the pulley is on 0 deg mark, and counter weight faces spark plug side of engine. Timing light gives reading on all 4 leads. I've pulled plugs and rested them on motor to verify spark. I've cleaned the plugs, I've hit them with a torch, I've put some ATF in the housings and spun it without the plugs. The ECU gets a reading from the CAS and shows about 175RPM while cranking. The injectors are clicking. How do I pulse test ignition?

I realized injector setup was wrong in the file above. I have since changed it to deadtime/flow and entered the exact values from injector dynamics with relation to voltage.

I don't have a fancy compression tester but the one from the parts store gave me readings of 65psi front and 75psi rear.

I guess I'm down to a bad battery maybe? I get 12.25v on the battery itself. The gauge on the dash reads 12v when I first turn the key, it reads 11v when I turn it over. I've tried connecting via thick jumper cables to another car but that doesn't get it spinning much faster.
Old 03-24-19, 05:01 PM
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Do you have fuel in the chambers? As in with plugs out is there a mist coming from the spark plug holes when you crank it?
If so get a friend to tow/pull start the car. That should do the trick.
Compression will pick up once you put a few miles on it.
Old 03-24-19, 05:03 PM
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As for pulse testing the ignition hit f11 and it should be right there.
Old 03-25-19, 04:43 PM
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Figured it out, when running 2 injectors, I needed to wire up outputs 1 and 3, not 1 and 2. Silly mistake, but aren't they all. I'm not all the way home but I got it to run for a minute before it stalled.

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Old 03-25-19, 04:58 PM
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