New motor won't start by itself!
New motor won't start by itself!
alright i finally cranked over the motor to start it.. it cranks and nothing, so i had a buddy spray some fluid in it while cranking and it fired right up, then ran for ohh i dunno 5-10 secs then died.. basically it starts fine while being sprayed but wont start on its own..
makes me think its the fuel system.. but i have plenty of fuel and the injectors are working cause i flooded it once today.. so wtf can it be??
i know my harness was cut before i bought my car and there all been sliced back together could something be wrong in my harness i should look into?
any help guys or ideas?
makes me think its the fuel system.. but i have plenty of fuel and the injectors are working cause i flooded it once today.. so wtf can it be??
i know my harness was cut before i bought my car and there all been sliced back together could something be wrong in my harness i should look into?
any help guys or ideas?
plus it sounds like its running on one rotor after a few secs then.. i can keep it running after i start it with the fluid now but on one rotor.. wtf?? i think my wiring is a miss.
1. Remove current spark plugs
2. Remove EGI fuse
3. Crank motor for 10-15 seconds
4. Clean area around spark plug holes and install spare set
5. Re-install EGI fuse
6. Start the car
See if it fires on the first start after that.
It's not hard to foul these plugs, especially on the first crank of a new/rebuild motor. Check the plugs when you pull them out and see if they are dripping with fuel. I would try this first to see if it's just fouled plugs.
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i hope ur right! im just trying to think of anything else it could be in case my plugs arnt the problem.. so i dont have to keep posting back and fourth ya know. that a way i can have 2-3 steps to try before i bug you guys more
Is the gas fresh? Old or flat gasoline will have lost some of its volatility (as the Aromatics will have already flashed off).
Simply put, this results in gas that does not readily vaporize , making it more difficult to start and easier to flood. Winter grade gasoline formulations are preferred for ease of starting (but are less desireable for evaporative emissions).
Also-- Do not attach a battery charger while trying to start as the ripple from the rectifier can confuse the ECU. Ask me how I know....
Simply put, this results in gas that does not readily vaporize , making it more difficult to start and easier to flood. Winter grade gasoline formulations are preferred for ease of starting (but are less desireable for evaporative emissions).
Also-- Do not attach a battery charger while trying to start as the ripple from the rectifier can confuse the ECU. Ask me how I know....
Last edited by Speed of light; Feb 17, 2008 at 08:44 PM. Reason: spelling
ok so no battery charger, and add some fresh 93 octane in my tank.. my fuel is about a year old and winter grade.. and there is only a 1/4 tank in it. i should prob add 2-3 gallons of fresh and try that also?
ohh and change my plugs. then ill prob be alright!
i want this beast to run again! on both rotors..
it sounds incredible when it was runnin on the starting fluid! very mean sounding!! i can tell the ports make the sound change a lil
i want this beast to run again! on both rotors..
it sounds incredible when it was runnin on the starting fluid! very mean sounding!! i can tell the ports make the sound change a lil
sounds like a faulty primary injector clip or stuck closed injector.
how long did the injectors sit in the rails while you were building the engine? the fuel can dry out and stick the injectors.
how long did the injectors sit in the rails while you were building the engine? the fuel can dry out and stick the injectors.
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