smitty95

what gains or adverse effects would i encounter?
95 7 pettit street port,intake ,downpipe,cat back pfs exhaust
see link below
http://www.ultrarev.com/Unorthodox_R...bo-p23183.html

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

Really, the only reason to remove the airpump is just to free up some room or if you totally don't need it. It has very little drag on the motor, and the magnetic clutch means it's disengaged at most conditions where you want power.

I don't see a midpipe on your list of mods, and it's just a good idea to keep the airpump with a cat. Also, if you don't have an aftermarket computer, you can have a rough idle and jerkier throttle response with no airpump.

It is neat that they have the idler pulley - didn't know they made that product.

Dale

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

i just removed my air pump and man ill tell you the room u get is GREAT... i mean its easyer to work on the car on that side and .. i still have the cat rite now because i dont want to freaken creep with a midpipe not haveing a pfc.... so yea i mean only prob with me was the ideling at first.. i just turned it up to almost 1k and it some times just bounces but it dont bother me

mr_ouija

Instead of doing the idler in it's place, I just did the UR underdrive for waterpump and alternator. It's also intended for removal of the Airpump.

I have an upgraded radiator, so my temps are pretty normal.

Madee

iTrader: (3)

If you remove the air pump do you need the idler pulley kit for the belt to make good contact with the water pump pulley? Most of the pictures I see of engine bays do not look like they have replaced the air pump with a pulley but it is hard to tell for sure.

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

The idler pulley will give better belt contact to the water pump than the underdrive pullies. Also, it might use a more common belt size, as I know some of the underdrive pullies use a really weird, hard to find belt size.

Dale

Madee

iTrader: (3)

I'll let you know on the belt size shortly after I pick mine up and try to install it. I understand the concept of the idler puller but is it necessary? Again, a lot of people don't run air pumps and I'm guessing a fair number do not have the idler pulley. Maybe we should start a thread asking that question.

rynberg

Your stock cat won't last long without the air pump.

CantGoStraight

The idler pulley is a preference thing. I personelly didn't want to run an under drive pulley on my water pump and this ment that my contact area with the air pump elimination belt and under drive pullies would (or could give me a problem with the water pump pulley slipping. I made my own idler pulley setup and have the exact same contact area as I had with the air pump. I'm running an under drive pulley on the alternator but have the stock one on the water pump. The contact area on the under drive set and belt are about the least amount of contact you can have next to not touching the water pump pulley. There are other makers of the idler pulley if that too much money. If money isn't an object get the idler it deffinately can't hurt and as far as these under drive pullies doing anything for HP "gains" it doesn't work that way, it's like a lightened fly wheel, it frees up the HP that you all ready have doesn't give you more.

FD3S2005

iTrader: (11)

I know but if i get a midpipe the boost will start to creep and i dont have an upgraded ecu to compensate that

sonix7

what about if you have an RX7store high flow cat and have to pass emissions. Think I could get away with removing the pump in exchange for the pulleys. Do emissions guys have to visually check for an airpump? Otherwise there is no inlet on the HF cat? I really want to ditch my pump, but am afraid of not passing emissions. What about a GM electric pump? but still no air inlet. I am so trying to figure out what to do? anyone pass emissions w/o an air pump on there?

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Most modern day high flow cats dont need extra air. Also Airpump shuts off after certain RPM.

Also, most idiots who works at the emission place don't know what FD airpump looks like. Most likely, they will stick the sniffer in your exhaust tip and measure.

If you get GM electric pump, you need to wire it, and then plumb it. Its not worth the trouble unless you absolutely not going to pass emission and can't hook the FD airpump.

If you search you'll see that many on the forum have pass with HF cat.. and some have passed without any cat at all!

afterburn27

iTrader: (5)

I call BS on this one lol

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

Based on personal experience, I second this! My HC was like 3000 above what it should be and it was even worse the 2nd time. I tested w/o airpump or pre-cat and am eliminating my cat tomorrow now that I have my PFC installed.

rynberg

Then don't remove the air pump! Seems obvious to me. How often are you working in that area of the car that the air pump is in the way a lot? I don't remember the air pump EVER being in my way to do anything.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

LOL!
I thought it was BS until I've met people who passed it.
It could be done with some tricks with PFC and something called EtOH!

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I just finished disconnecting my airpump and now I fail one half of the smog test (25mph on the dyno). If it wasn't for the upgraded primaries, I might have been able to pass without a tune.

Oddly enough I passed the 15mph test, so I imagine it is only a matter of getting a good tune to pass with only the simplified sequential setup and rx7store hi-flow cat.

crxturboh22

so its good to remove the AIR PUMP and you'll still pass smog if you got stock intake.. and jst exhaust.. i still got my cat...

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I suspect that CA emissions are much more strict than GA, but if it doesn't work you can always put the airpump back in.

rynberg

You are not going to pass Cali emissions without an airpump. Your cat would die a short death without it anyway. Why are people always trying to remove stuff from this car?

NeoTuri

iTrader: (2)

I learned my lesson. The airpump goes back on.

Rpat312

i have a question i want to remove my airpump as well but i dont want to get a pully kit. anyone know what size belt i will need to get rid of mine cause i have a midpipe ?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generation-specific-1993-2002-16/alt-water-pump-belt-just-broke-i-need-help-finding-belt-417971/

It is recommended that you get a pulley kit when removing the airpump. With the airpump removed, there is less contact with the waterpump pulley. This can result in the belt slipping on the pulley and not turning your waterpump properly. The pulley kits increase the size of the alternator and waterpump pullies, therefor increasing the contact with the waterpump pulley to keep it from slipping.

smitty95

thanks ill leave it be it pses no problem for me

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Since you bumped your own thread after more than 3 years, you should know that there is an option that wasn't readily available back then. There are at least three manufacturers (Tweakit Racing; Garfinkle and Pineapple) that produce idler pulleys that replace the AP. Their pulley kits allow you to remove the AP but keep the stock belt and maintain proper contact with the waterpump pulley...and avoid under-drive pulleys and some issues they may bring.

And as has been pointed out, modern hi-flow cats function just fine without the AP.