After installing just a downpipe, I got boost spikes in cold weather that hit the fuel cut, so I experimented with larger pills (Holley jets). After trying 2 or 3 progressively larger ones, I got the spikes under control. Then I got a RB catback and notice that it was spiking again, but not as bad, so now I plan to try still larger pills once the weather warms up. If you have more time than money, try switching the pill.

 

IMO, with the pills or needle valves, you will see boost variation with weather, altitude, and intake/exhaust flow changes. With a ball/spring or electronic controller, boost will be consistant unless you are getting boost creep (outflowing the WG capacity).

 

I agree, with larger pills the boost still varies with temp, humidity, etc., just like stock.

I didn't realize that the ball/spring controller would compensate for these factors. I though it was like the Home Depot needle valve approach - essentially just a variable size pill.

I'm thinking about getting an EBC too for this reason, so this thread is very informative.

 

Both the pill and the needle valve approach still rely on balancing two orifices - the pill/needle valve against the duty-controlled solenoids, which are operated by the open loop ECU map. Ball/spring or electronic controllers work closed-loop and use the actual boost pressure to regulate the boost, since the lines to the solenoids are plugged. That means they are essentially independent of weather, etc. in their controlled boost value. The only exception is altitude and barometric-pressure change, since they regulate compared to atmospheric pressure, and if that changes due to altitude, etc., the absolute boost pressure will change, even though the boost gauge will still read the same.

 

Why invovle any of that? Why the pills? Doesnt the boost controller satisfy the need for the pills? I just took the pills out of the system altogether like damian's setup and it works fine. Better than fine. I dont spike at all and I dont go fast enough to creep usually and if I do I watch it. Ive got a 95 with a full exhaust and a pettit ecu.

 

Manual Ball & Spring type Boost controller set at 15 psi non-sequential w/ the PFC Fuel Cut as a back up. Set it and forget it.

Cheap and easy to install. I did run needle valves when I was still Seq.

 

I thought that was understood?!? - with a ball/spring or electronic controller the controllers replace the pills.

 

DaveW -- I just read Damian's thread about using Hallmans. I think I understand it, but:

Is it sufficient to just use one on the wastegate actuator line, or do you need 2?

Should the lines to the solenoids be disconnected and the nipples on the actuators capped, or left as stock?

Thanks

 

a) Some people have used (with good results) one controller to control both the PC and WG actuators at the same pressure. Use one boost pressure feed to the controller, and the controller exit is tee'd to both actuators. I used two separate controllers to be able to set the primary and secondary boost levels independently (11-9-10 boost pattern).

b) The lines to the solenoids must be plugged (I used pills with no holes inserted in these lines), or the two systems (the boost controller and the stock solenoids) will fight each other and it won't work properly.

See my mods in my signature.

 

See My Sig.

 

greddy greddy greddy!!!

i got mine new for 280 shipped on ebay, easy as hell to install and got it tuned perfectly with ease in about 2 tries.

 

HKS EVC, perfect, every time

 

really? because the add at gotham racing says its not intended for rx7's fairly specifically. scared me off. tell me more...

http://www.gothamracing.com/catalog/...products_id=86

 

stuck in the stoneage, captain

 

has anyone tried the turboxs mbc? the one where u can switch between two boost settings? would u need two of those just like with the hallman ones? i want somethin i can adjust from the interior of my car, instead of pulling over and popping the hood.

 

yes, no, yes, get the kit like mine from hallman with the remotely located *****.

 

I started this thread and ended up going with the hallman controller with the in cabin control. I love it!!! I never see a variation in boost levels. Hallman makes a remarkable controller!! It was a little dificult to get that control line through the firewall, but a minor set back for the ease of setting the controller in cabin instead of getting out the car, popping hood, setting, closing, getting in and repeating this over and over again.(you get the idea)

thanks again for all the help!!!
-josh

 

does somebody have a user manual for the greddy profec b spec II boost controller?

 

I had the Blitz SBCID II on my TII and the thing was unbelievable, does anyone here have any experience with the Blitz on the FD? Does anyone know whether it works well with the stock system?