Marcel Burkett

I finally decided to do an "upgrade" of my cooling system and intercooler . Before I had a single pass Koyo with a custom large ISUZU intercooler mounted up front , there were no problems , in trafic temps could get as high as 210 F but would quickly fall back to normal (185-190F) when I start moving again . I also made #%)RWHP @ 15 psi and 6500 RPM with the intercooler .
For my setup (cuatom twin GT3071R turbos , semp. pp ports etc., etc.) I always thought that the IC was too small , so I took the opportunity to upgrade to a monster , the core is 28"X12"X4" and 3" in/out when I saw one up for sale at a good price .
In anticipation of cooling problems with such a thick IC , I also decided to change to the KOYO N flow tripple pass rad. and the Miziere WP 336 , 55gpm electric water pump , I also plan to put in complete ducting work between the rad and IC .
The water pump is already installed and waiting on the radiator , the IC is also on the way . In my opinion all these components should work well together and my temps should be even better than stock , what do you guys think ?

Marcel Burkett

Where's the damn edit button ?? , sorry guys ..., thats 350 RWHP @ 15psi and 6500rpm.

XxMerlinxX

iTrader: (2)

Lol, I had to decode your hp number, I didn't see your second post.

Marcel Burkett

thanks alot for all your responses guys.

moconnor

iTrader: (14)

You trying reading your own post. I guess there was a question buried in there somewhere?

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

The only possible problem I can think of is the triple-pass radiator might be a bit restrictive, which could decrease coolant flow rate. Aside from that, it looks like a nice setup. I'm assuming you've seen Carlos Iglesias "Spic Racer GT35R" thread, his setup looks similar to yours.

What are you doing about a thermostat? Are you going to use the Meziere controller?

As with any other new setup, double-check everything, monitor your gauges closely, and keep your first few 'test runs' close to home.

-s-

Montego

iTrader: (1)

let me see if I can help:\

ok basically you had decent cooling with your old FMIC. But you felt that your old IC was inadequate so you are upgrading to a monster FMIC. Now with that effective cooling came to mind as it may be compromised. So you upgraded to a KOYO N flow triple pass radiator along with an Miziere WP 336, 55 gpm electric water pump. And now you are wondering if your cooling system upgrade is adequate. Did I get it right?

answer is I have no idea... FMIC are iffy with how much air they block especially with the one you have. But I still wanted to say that upgrading the fans on the radiator should be on that list as well.

Marcel Burkett

Wait , you cant see the question ?, its in the last line of the post .

Marcel Burkett

Yep , that's it basicly , I didnt consider the fans 'cause everyone says that the stockers work just fine , but I guess its something to think about . Anybody upgraded their fans ? , care to post info on them ? , thanks by the way .

Marcel Burkett

I did some checking on a few other sites and the tripple pass is discribed as the "ULTIMATE" in cooling , I know what was said on the Stweart components site , but these claims were since withdrawn ! . A decrease in flow is is expected but this is exactly how the tripple pass works , it slows the flow and forces all the water to flow through the whole core and remember that the Koyo is twice the size of the stocker and thicker than all the rest so the cross sectional area is greater , also the pumps' motor is quite heavy and torquey , I'm sure it would be able to push the water through without a problem , any loss in flow may also be compensated for by the high flow rate capability of the pump .
As for a controller , they do not make one , they advised that their pump was made to be run constantly , using a controller like the Davies Craig can actually damage the motor , since the controller works by varying the voltage to the motor , and we know that when voltage drops , amperage increases. I am using the stock thermostat to control the temps, all that was needed is a pair of 5mm holes in it to allow circulation when the motor is cold , the main "valve" would open and close as necessary when the temperature changes.

Montego

iTrader: (1)

Yes stock fans do work just fine. But your FMIC is huge so they may not be and that's the real question.

Honestly, I think the best route is to play it by ear. Hook it all up and see if your car runs hotter than normal. If so then upgrade fans. Just don't over heat the car while doing it.

Sorry I don't have a definite answer but this is uncharted territory for me.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

Marcel Burkett,

Interesting point about controllers shortening the life of the pump. I'm not sure if this is true or not: it's likely that the Davies-Craig controller uses a pulse-width-modulated system, which will change the duty cycle. With a PWM speed control system, the motor sees only 12V or 0V (the on/off ratio determines the speed), so current (amperage) should remain constant. The switching might decrease the life of the motor, but running it constantly will also decrease the life of the motor, so it's difficult to say which method will keep your motor alive the longest.


Very good point about the internal dimensions of the Koyo radiator: I've never thought to look into the tube diameters, but it makes perfect sense that larger tubes will be less restrictive...


If you want more airflow (and everyone should), look into a different fan shroud. The stock setup puts the fans about 1" from the radiator core, which will leave 'hot spots' in the center of each fan, where the motor is. If you build a fan shroud that puts the fans at least 3" from the radiator core, you'll eliminate those two 'hot spots,' which will increase the efficiency of both your radiator and fans.


Don't forget oil cooling, what's your setup in that department? I think that we should put fans on our oil coolers also (the Rotary Performance drift car is a good example).

-s-

Marcel Burkett

this is taken from the Davies Craug web site ;

In each case the controller electronically senses coolant temperature and adjusts the voltage to the pump, and thereby, the EWP coolant flow. The algorithm in each controller has 3 distinctive phases of operation:

1. No Output -Up until coolant temperature approx. 20 degC below that 'set', the controller provides no voltage to the pump therefore does not operate.

2. Pulsing - Between 20 and 5 degC below 'set' temperature, the controller provides a 'pulse' signal of around 4~5 volts OFF and ON every few seconds to provide a very small flow ro remove any hot-spots in the engine (ie around valves etc).

3. Pump-On - From 5 degC and above the 'set' temperature, the voltage output from the controller rises linearly with temperature until the pump is at full capacity. The controller will 'lock-on' to the 'set' temperature and control the pump accordingly.







PART # 8010 - EWP ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER

Specifications
Input Voltage: 12V DC to 14.5V DC
Output Voltage: 3V to 12V
Max. Current: 7.5 Amps
Operating Temperature: -20°C to 60°C (-5°F to 140°F)
Setting Temperature: 85°C ~ 105°C (185°F ~ 221°F)
Setting Method: Mechanical Trim Pot
Controller Type: PCB with Microprocessor
Sensor Type: Thermister in waterproof housing
Time-Out: Not available
Controller Weight: 300 grams (10 oz.)
Controller Dimensions: 95 mm (L) x 65mm(W) x 50(D)
( 3.75"(L) X 2.56"(W) x 2"(D))





PART # 8020 - EWP DIGITAL ELECTRONIC CONTROLLER

Specifications

Input Voltage: 12V DC to 13.5V DC
Output Voltage: 5V to 13.5V
Max. Current: 12 amps
Operating Temperature: -20°C to 60°C (-5°F to 140°F)
Setting Temperature: 75°,80°,85°,90°,95°C
(167°,176°,185°,194°,203°F)
Setting Method: Push Button
Controller Type: PCB with microprocessor
Sensor Type: Thermister in waterproof housing
Time-Out: 2 mins. (or 'set' -5°C) after IGN OFF
Controller Weight: 90 grams (3.2 oz.)
Controller Dimensions: 101 mm (L) x 95mm (W) x 35 (D)
(4" (L) X 3.75" (W) x 1.38" (D))


it can be clearly seen that the controller operates the pump by varying its supply voltage , before I got the Meziere I spoke to them and the assured me that their pump is made too run conctantly and only constantly and that the motor is specifically built to do so up to as much as 10000 hours.I am not worried about the pumps robustness , in fact I chose it over th DC pump because it is a more durable one.Lots of people are running their DC pumps constantly and are doing so for years , so I am not worried about the meziere. As for oil cooling , my car is an R1 , so it has the factory oil coolers , in traffic I have never seen the oil temps go higher than than the coolant , and when moving it quickly falls to about 150F and stays there.I never thought of that thing with the fan shrouds though , I think i'll look into it.

scotty305

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you've done your homework. I'd love to see photos of your installation, and hear how things turn out.


-s-

Marcel Burkett

I will put up pics and post results as soon as I can , right now I'm waiting on both the IC and radiator to arrive .