Yet another spudder and jerking issue while cruising
07-03-14, 12:05 AM
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Yet another spudder and jerking issue while cruising
I've read up on this issue on the forums, but did not find any threads describing the exact issue I was having.
Like most of the threads I'm coming across, the spuddering/studdering/jerking issue happens to me when I am cruising at a consistant speed. This does not happen when I accelerate, and does not happen when I decelerate. In fact, if I go into the spuddering/studdering/jerking episode, slightly hitting the gas "kicks" or "jerks" it out of its episode and continues to accelerate.
For example, I am driving in 5th gear at 60mph. Everything is going fine for the first 10 seconds. Soon after, I feel a strong "surge" of power loss. The car doesn't look like its looking much speed, but there is some sort of resistance taking place. The surge lasts for about 5 seconds. Right after, the car starts bucking very lightly front and back (back and forth jerks about 3 times a second). After another 4-5 seconds, the jerking gets strong enough to throw my head back and forth. At this point, I have 2 options:
1) Get off the gas and decelerate, the jerking stops immediately.
2) Ever so slightly, press the gas pedal down a millimeter, and the car kind of "kicks" itself out of the surging jerks and starts to accelerate rapidly. If I keep accelerating, I see no signs of hesitation/jerking. Once I get back to cruising and refrain from putting additional load on the engine to accelerate, the same jerking cycle begins again.
If I was to guess, I want to say it feels like there isn't enough fuel being pumped into the engine. As soon as I give it a little more gas, the additional throttle press tells the ECU to dump more fuel into the engine, causing the bucking to stop. But again, I might be completely off.
Other thing I noticed, the jerking happens a LOT more often when the Air Conditioning button is turned ON. Makes me think it has something to do with the additional load on the engine.
Are there any ideas as to why the bucking is happening only while cruising (and even more with AC on?). It's getting very hard to drive this car without that surge feeling kicking in.
Like most of the threads I'm coming across, the spuddering/studdering/jerking issue happens to me when I am cruising at a consistant speed. This does not happen when I accelerate, and does not happen when I decelerate. In fact, if I go into the spuddering/studdering/jerking episode, slightly hitting the gas "kicks" or "jerks" it out of its episode and continues to accelerate.
For example, I am driving in 5th gear at 60mph. Everything is going fine for the first 10 seconds. Soon after, I feel a strong "surge" of power loss. The car doesn't look like its looking much speed, but there is some sort of resistance taking place. The surge lasts for about 5 seconds. Right after, the car starts bucking very lightly front and back (back and forth jerks about 3 times a second). After another 4-5 seconds, the jerking gets strong enough to throw my head back and forth. At this point, I have 2 options:
1) Get off the gas and decelerate, the jerking stops immediately.
2) Ever so slightly, press the gas pedal down a millimeter, and the car kind of "kicks" itself out of the surging jerks and starts to accelerate rapidly. If I keep accelerating, I see no signs of hesitation/jerking. Once I get back to cruising and refrain from putting additional load on the engine to accelerate, the same jerking cycle begins again.
If I was to guess, I want to say it feels like there isn't enough fuel being pumped into the engine. As soon as I give it a little more gas, the additional throttle press tells the ECU to dump more fuel into the engine, causing the bucking to stop. But again, I might be completely off.
Other thing I noticed, the jerking happens a LOT more often when the Air Conditioning button is turned ON. Makes me think it has something to do with the additional load on the engine.
Are there any ideas as to why the bucking is happening only while cruising (and even more with AC on?). It's getting very hard to drive this car without that surge feeling kicking in.
07-03-14, 04:01 AM
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Article states it bucks on deceleration below 2500 rpm. Mine stops bucking while deceleration.
07-03-14, 04:25 PM
#5
Sounds like it's having issues when the ECU attempts to go into closed loop O2 feedback mode. Is your car stock? If not, what mods do you have?
Assuming you have a factory ECU, a bad O2 sensor/wiring could be a culprit; a problem or modifications to the air pump and/or ACV systems can also cause this sort of affect.
Assuming you have a factory ECU, a bad O2 sensor/wiring could be a culprit; a problem or modifications to the air pump and/or ACV systems can also cause this sort of affect.
07-03-14, 05:17 PM
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The car is all stock.
I noticed something very interesting today.
When the AC fan and condenser is turned off, there is no bucking or jerking while cruising.
When I turn the fan on speed 1, this is a slight surge of power loss.
When I turn the fan on speed 2, there is even more surge of power loss while cruising.
By the time I get to speed 4, the car starts to go into it's bucking episode while cruising.
The surge and bucking is amplified when the AC button is turned on.
After the bucking starts, I can change to a slower speed on the air conditioning fan (or turn it off) and the bucking stops.
I got the idea that it has something to so with a voltage drop. Faster the fans spin, the greater the voltage drop in the entire circuit. Would this voltage drop effect the volts outputted from the TPS sensor to the ECU?
I wanted to test my hypothesis by turning on the headlights and using the high beams. After turning on the headlights, the bucking and jerking became a lot more aggressive and harder to get out of.
Does it make sense that the voltage drop could effect the voltage in some sensors? If this is the case, how would I go about keeping a consistent voltage without being forced to drive without lights/AC.
I noticed something very interesting today.
When the AC fan and condenser is turned off, there is no bucking or jerking while cruising.
When I turn the fan on speed 1, this is a slight surge of power loss.
When I turn the fan on speed 2, there is even more surge of power loss while cruising.
By the time I get to speed 4, the car starts to go into it's bucking episode while cruising.
The surge and bucking is amplified when the AC button is turned on.
After the bucking starts, I can change to a slower speed on the air conditioning fan (or turn it off) and the bucking stops.
I got the idea that it has something to so with a voltage drop. Faster the fans spin, the greater the voltage drop in the entire circuit. Would this voltage drop effect the volts outputted from the TPS sensor to the ECU?
I wanted to test my hypothesis by turning on the headlights and using the high beams. After turning on the headlights, the bucking and jerking became a lot more aggressive and harder to get out of.
Does it make sense that the voltage drop could effect the voltage in some sensors? If this is the case, how would I go about keeping a consistent voltage without being forced to drive without lights/AC.
07-03-14, 07:58 PM
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I'm having trouble finding the Throttle Position Sensor, so in the meantime, I took the following voltage from the terminals on the battery:
Car Off: 12.80 volts
Car On: 13.80 volts
While car is On,
Air Blower Speed 1: 13.80 volts
Air Blower Speed 2: 13.80 volts
Air Blower Speed 3: 13.70 volts
Air Blower Speed 4: 13.65 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 1: 13.68 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 2: 13.66 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 3: 13.64 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 4: 13.60 volts
Head Lights On: 13.65 volts
Head Lights + Air Blower Speed 4: 13.53 volts
Head Lights + Air Conditioner Speed 4: 13.47 volts
Is the car holding the correct charge? If the voltage is low, would this mean there is an alternator issue?
Car Off: 12.80 volts
Car On: 13.80 volts
While car is On,
Air Blower Speed 1: 13.80 volts
Air Blower Speed 2: 13.80 volts
Air Blower Speed 3: 13.70 volts
Air Blower Speed 4: 13.65 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 1: 13.68 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 2: 13.66 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 3: 13.64 volts
Air Conditioner Speed 4: 13.60 volts
Head Lights On: 13.65 volts
Head Lights + Air Blower Speed 4: 13.53 volts
Head Lights + Air Conditioner Speed 4: 13.47 volts
Is the car holding the correct charge? If the voltage is low, would this mean there is an alternator issue?
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07-03-14, 08:29 PM
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I found the Throttle Position Sensor and here are the following voltages:
2nd from the top (green wire with red strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Mine is 0.80
Fully open throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0. Mine is 5.0
Bottom (black wire with green strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Mine is 0.0
Fully open throttle +v range is 4.2 to 4.6. Mine is 0.7
Is there a way to adjust only the bottom wires voltage at full open throttle?
2nd from the top (green wire with red strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Mine is 0.80
Fully open throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0. Mine is 5.0
Bottom (black wire with green strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Mine is 0.0
Fully open throttle +v range is 4.2 to 4.6. Mine is 0.7
Is there a way to adjust only the bottom wires voltage at full open throttle?
07-03-14, 10:18 PM
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I had the same concern with mine. While cruising around 50-60 on 4th gear it would bog before. Since then I changed my fuel filter and fuel pump and it hasn't returned since.
Hope this is somewhat helpful for you.
Hope this is somewhat helpful for you.
07-04-14, 12:37 PM
#12
I found the Throttle Position Sensor and here are the following voltages:
2nd from the top (green wire with red strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Mine is 0.80
Fully open throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0. Mine is 5.0
Bottom (black wire with green strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Mine is 0.0
Fully open throttle +v range is 4.2 to 4.6. Mine is 0.7
Is there a way to adjust only the bottom wires voltage at full open throttle?
2nd from the top (green wire with red strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.75 to 1.25. Mine is 0.80
Fully open throttle +V range is 4.8 to 5.0. Mine is 5.0
Bottom (black wire with green strip):
Closed throttle +V range is 0.1 to 0.7. Mine is 0.0
Fully open throttle +v range is 4.2 to 4.6. Mine is 0.7
Is there a way to adjust only the bottom wires voltage at full open throttle?
07-04-14, 05:27 PM
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Am I correct in saying that you can not adjust the full band independent from the narrow band? And in saying this, would this imply the TPS has crapped out if the Narrow band is in spec and the wide band is out of spec?
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