Writeup: DIY poly motor mounts
#26
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Weird they've got cut outs on the bottom to fit the aluminum mount. I didn't notice this on their pictures online. Are you worried that basically replacing the center of the poly with an aluminum section is going to lead to more vibration?
#28
Rotary Enthusiast
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I never actually thought about it like that, but that's a good point, less poly could mean more vibration. oh well, we'll see. Either way I was trying to save money and these were the most affordable option (besides making my own) and will work much better than my broken stock mounts so it will still be better than before.
#29
Ya they are very hard, like solid. Are the other poly mounts this hard? Was the 90 poly alot softer? Mines not a daily driver so it won't be that big of a deal if there is a bunch of vibration, but I hope it's not bad. I will know in a couple weeks when I get the rebuilt motor in.
I have the Himni ones now mounted but I have to finish mounting the diff, axles and exhaust before test driving them. I might reuse the discs of poly 90 that I had on the underside to get some "rebound" damping.
#30
I don't think it was your mounts. Many people have one or both of the stock mounts fail and don't fix them right away. Some of the aftermarket mounts cause the engine to sit a little higher. Ppf's fail, differential mounts fail and rarely do i hear anyone with differential problems. Maybe your bearings got too hot, the oil was low or contaminated, metal fragments, or maybe just high miles/hard life.
Probably I had the driveline misaligned somehow. But to be on the safe side I bought a set of new mounts.
#32
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I got my car running again, with the himni racing poly motor mounts, I am happy with them, not dissatisfied in anyway. There is very minimal vibration at idle, barely noticeable and not bad at all, my girlfriend didnt notice anything different haha, but she is cool and doesnt mind any of the loud noises or anything like that. There is some extra vibration around 1800 rpms but only noticeable when reving in neutral and I think its cool and not bad, nothing feels bad when driving, its nice having the new mounts compared to the broken stock mounts. I said I would report back about these, as talked about on the first page.
#34
I got my car running again, with the himni racing poly motor mounts, I am happy with them, not dissatisfied in anyway. There is very minimal vibration at idle, barely noticeable and not bad at all, my girlfriend didnt notice anything different haha, but she is cool and doesnt mind any of the loud noises or anything like that. There is some extra vibration around 1800 rpms but only noticeable when reving in neutral and I think its cool and not bad, nothing feels bad when driving, its nice having the new mounts compared to the broken stock mounts. I said I would report back about these, as talked about on the first page.
#35
Senior Member
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Driver's side broken in mine. Decided to try the poly's.
A couple of things I did different:
A couple of things I did different:
- Used 60A durometer polyurethane; I think the softer rubber will absorb vibration better.
- Machined the aluminum motor mount flat and welded a bolting tab on it.
- I cut the poly with an aluminum chop saw - worked great and cut square.
- Will be able to reuse the heat shield above the right one.
#36
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The only thing I would consider changing with that setup would be to put a 3" washers between the top wafers and the mounts. The mounts (esp the aluminum one) aren't completely flat where the mount hits the poly so the pressure won't be even and could decrease the service life of the top wafers.
Yeah I considered putting poly wafers on top of the motor mounts too, but decided to just go with ones under the subframe since they accomplish the same thing. Putting them on top does avoid the problem of decreased clearance under the car though. Which is a very good thing. I was lazy and didn't cut my bolts down right after installation and one of them bottomed out on the tracks over the pit at Jiffy Lube when I brought it in for inspection. Bent the crap out of the bolt and had to replace it.
Yeah I considered putting poly wafers on top of the motor mounts too, but decided to just go with ones under the subframe since they accomplish the same thing. Putting them on top does avoid the problem of decreased clearance under the car though. Which is a very good thing. I was lazy and didn't cut my bolts down right after installation and one of them bottomed out on the tracks over the pit at Jiffy Lube when I brought it in for inspection. Bent the crap out of the bolt and had to replace it.
#37
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[QUOTE=Prophet7000;9660092]The only thing I would consider changing with that setup would be to put a 3" washers between the top wafers and the mounts. The mounts (esp the aluminum one) aren't completely flat where the mount hits the poly so the pressure won't be even and could decrease the service life of the top wafers.
QUOTE]
You're right I thought of that also and made up some 12 ga stainless sheetmetal ones this morning (one above and one below the mounts). Engine going in today...
QUOTE]
You're right I thought of that also and made up some 12 ga stainless sheetmetal ones this morning (one above and one below the mounts). Engine going in today...
#38
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#40
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In North Carolina you can get your car inspected at all sorts of random places. I bring mine to Jiffy Lube because they always check the box that says "Catalytic Converter" even though my car has a straight through 3" exhaust. It's one of the times that Jiffy Lube is a great place to go because of the fact that they suck at their jobs!
#41
Original Gangster/Rotary!
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In North Carolina you can get your car inspected at all sorts of random places. I bring mine to Jiffy Lube because they always check the box that says "Catalytic Converter" even though my car has a straight through 3" exhaust. It's one of the times that Jiffy Lube is a great place to go because of the fact that they suck at their jobs!
#42
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Yeah they get my $13 a year for inspection, but I don't let them do anything else. Plus they move quick because I think they get weirded out by me standing there pressed against the glass unblinkingly staring at them.
#43
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I'm thinking about using these universal mounts from Energy Suspension to build new mounts. Part #2.1102. Should just have to build a spacer with a stud out the center and bolt it up. I've never really liked the idea of a bolt all the way through the mount to the chassis. I like the interlocking design of these better.
The best part is they're only $23.40 for what looks like a pair from Amazon of all places.
http://www.energysuspension.com/univ...on-mounts.html
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens.../dp/B000CN56UO
The best part is they're only $23.40 for what looks like a pair from Amazon of all places.
http://www.energysuspension.com/univ...on-mounts.html
http://www.amazon.com/Energy-Suspens.../dp/B000CN56UO
#46
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
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I won't even let the alignment guys pull my car in. I will always do my own work. If there is a specialty job that needs done. I will watch them carefully. If I can't be present while it's being performed, I politely explain that I will take my business elsewhere.....
#48
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I like supporting rotary vendors too, just not when it's double the price and involves so little prep work. I mean if you've got the money to spend by all means spend it, but I'm on a budget (stupid grad school). That hundred bucks went to purchasing steering rack parts to freshen up my newly converted manual rack. mmmm.....road feel.
#49
Lives on the Forum
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Its great that a person like you can do this on their own. The problem is that alot of people don't have the resources you do and research costs money. Your story is full of win and success but I'm sure others who have tried have failed. Its cool that you can do this on your own though. I'd love to be able to work on my car some day.