4.6Cobra01

Hey everyone, my best friend wrecked his 93 RX7 and we are going to have the car fixed. This is a cash job so we are trying to save as much money as we can. Fortunately i know the guy that owns the body shop so he is doing everything he can to save us money. In order to accurately realign the frame, he needs the engine to be pulled. Since i have experience working on cars, i was going to help my buddy out and pull the motor for him (only have experience with domestics, mustangs and such). I looked at everything and from what i can tell, it's not too difficult...just lots of vacuum lines. Well, im here to get any help that i can because i would like for this to be as painless as possible. Soooo...is there anything i should know that would help me out? is it easier to pull the motor with the tranny attached or removed? does anyone have a labeling system they use for the vacuum hoses? Just curious as to the standard procedure for doing this job. Any help or information would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

-Scott

4.6Cobra01

Anyone?

SanJoRX7

There's a ton of vacuum hoses to undo to get the engine out. I'm not sure there's any real magic to taking the engine out...take out stuff from the top down, then take the engine out. Installation is reverse of removal. Make sure to get new gaskets and redo the hoses whilst the engine is out though...maybe reseal the oil pan, etc.

Hell, this is a perfect opportunity to get a ton of work done on that engine. If you or your buddy have the time and inclination, tear that som'bitch apart and do a rebuild

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

I've pulled 6 motors from FDs, reinstalled 4 (one wreck, one V-8 conversion) all with excellent luck. It took me about 4hrs to have the motor/tranny out last time I did it.

DON'T TAKE ANY VACUUM LINES OFF!!!

I take out the engine and trans together, I think this simplifies reinstallation and removal.

Disconnect the simple stuff:
throttle cable
Cruise cable
ground cable (one on upper intake, one bolt on drivers side near fuse box)
hydralic line on the firewall
two big gray electrical plugs in front of the driver strut tower
power lead from smaller fuse box to larger fuse box.
AC and PS can stay on the car or pull with engine and trans (discharging a/c).
Use C-clips to disconnect oil cooler(s)
Remove pre-cat.
IC, intake and battery need to come out.

Tranny, starter, slave cyl and all wiring can stay attached to motor. Airpump, alternator can stay attached also.

From under the car remove:
Under tranny shield
3 cross braces
PPF
Driveline
I've taken the motor mounts off the car everytime, some people leave them on. It is easier to take them off, this is the last step, the motor needs to be supported.


The hood can stay on, but if you fixing a wreck you might have to take it off anyway.

I just did a motor pull this weekend. Take it out as a unit, you really, really don't want to take it apart in the car and pull the block. You literally don't have to take any of the vacuum lines off, well there is one on the MAP sensor on the firewall.

Your left with a complete engine/tranny/turbos assembly. There are 2 wiring harnesses, one that goes to the ECU (didn't mention it earlier, pulls out of the pass footwell, pretty simple, work it out slowly). The harness on the drivers side can stay on also.

It might be a good idea to buy new hoses etc while you have it out, it is very easy to install new hoses with motor out, very hard when it is in.

I probably missed something, but you get the idea.

Jeff

4.6Cobra01

Thank you Jeff. This sounds pretty basic. I think i will tackle this tonight. Again, thanx for the info, at least i won't be going into this blindy now.
-Scott

4.6Cobra01

Jeff, just wanted to say thanx again for the help. Pulled the motor last night, it was pretty much just like you said...pretty simple. The only difficulty i had was that the K member was tweaked from the accident and it didn't want to let the studs for the engine mounts pull through.
-Scott

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

glad you got it out

Jeff