Wraping Dp question
08-02-09, 01:52 AM
#1
Wraping Dp question
#1 where do they sell it? 
pepboys or anyplace like that?
#2 how much length should i get, and do i only do 1 wrap around the dp or go for another pass?
i am sending out my tail lights to be converted to 99 spec and while the cars going to be down i wanted to get rid of some of the extra heat. iv never done this before so i have no idea how to do it.
i hear it will eat away at the dp or something..
was thinking also about coating it, but not sure how much that costs.
pepboys or anyplace like that?#2 how much length should i get, and do i only do 1 wrap around the dp or go for another pass?
i am sending out my tail lights to be converted to 99 spec and while the cars going to be down i wanted to get rid of some of the extra heat. iv never done this before so i have no idea how to do it.
i hear it will eat away at the dp or something..
was thinking also about coating it, but not sure how much that costs.
08-02-09, 05:13 AM
#2
I have done the wrap. I got a DEI header wrap kit at a local parts store. It might be too technical for Pep Boys though. A speed shop will definitely have it. I wrapped it with a half-overlap so that when I was done it was almost two layers thick everywhere.
In the end I didn't like it. Every time I was under the car or working on the exhaust I got fiberglass fibers in my face and arms. I took it off and now there is nothing on mine, not a big deal. If you have a carbon steel downpipe then yes you should take care that it might promote rusting.
In the end I didn't like it. Every time I was under the car or working on the exhaust I got fiberglass fibers in my face and arms. I took it off and now there is nothing on mine, not a big deal. If you have a carbon steel downpipe then yes you should take care that it might promote rusting.
08-02-09, 07:54 AM
#4
I wrapped my M2 mild steel DP for the time first about 5 years ago. When I removed it two years ago to rebuild the engine, there was some pitting, but nothing dramatic that threatened the integrity. I sanded it down and painted it with the DEI silicone sealant...good to 1500 F. IIRC. Then I re-wrapped it and sealed it again with the DEI spray. Do that and you don't have the very valid "itch" issues that degeesaman mentioned when working next to it. And it insulates well enough that by the time I run my car up on the lift, I can grab the DP with my bare hands. IIRC, the DEI instuctions recommend soaking it in water. Never tried that, but it might help if your doing it with the DP on the car. IMO save your money on the DEI wrap ties and just get some good quality stainless worm-gear clamps. At the ends, I folded the strip of wrap into a point and centered the point under the clamp for a clean, no fray end.
BTW, the DEI spray worked well on the turbo heatshielding too. Did it while everything was off for the rebuild. With a little sanding pad and rinse, it's stuck VERY well and covered all the rust pitting that comes with time.
Ideally, have it Jet-hot coated or some other heat-coating. They do look better but either way, I can't imagine running without something to reduce the heat.
BTW, the DEI spray worked well on the turbo heatshielding too. Did it while everything was off for the rebuild. With a little sanding pad and rinse, it's stuck VERY well and covered all the rust pitting that comes with time.
Ideally, have it Jet-hot coated or some other heat-coating. They do look better but either way, I can't imagine running without something to reduce the heat.
08-02-09, 01:38 PM
#7
John Dillinger
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for the coating.. are u suppose to apply it on the dp first and then wrap it? or apply on the dp first and wrap it and then appy the coating again?
or just apply the coating after wrapping it?
thanks
or just apply the coating after wrapping it?
thanks
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08-02-09, 02:08 PM
#9
If your careful, the can goes a long way...of course it's a lot easier to be careful when it's off the car.
08-02-09, 02:14 PM
#10
John Dillinger
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As I mentioned above, I had a mild steel DP and wanted to keep it from rusting so I gave it a quick sanding, cleaned with some reducer and sprayed it if first before the wrap then sprayed it again to seal the wrap. If you had a stainless DP there would be no sense in spraying the DP first.
If your careful, the can goes a long way...of course it's a lot easier to be careful when it's off the car.
If your careful, the can goes a long way...of course it's a lot easier to be careful when it's off the car.
thanks
08-02-09, 02:28 PM
#12
This is NOT hard. Pretty straight-forward stuff.
08-03-09, 09:14 AM
#23
It's better to buy whats needed, even if you have to wait a few days for it; than to pick up something that you'll have to redo because of not getting the "right thing". However, you are in Florida; there are MANY speed/specialty shops in that state where you should be able to pick up some heat wrap. Heat wrap is not a rotary thing so just find any shop that soups up cars.
08-03-09, 09:48 AM
#24
I had my stainless steel dp coated at Calico Coatings in 2006. They do work for Nascar if I'm remembering correctly. I had the CT-24 Coolblack thermal coating done. After it was installed I ran the car for 1/2 hour and I could hold my hand on the dp. the coating is still on there and looks good. I have not put my hand on it since then though. The cost was around 80 bucks at that time. And that was with shipping.
just my 2c fwiw
just my 2c fwiw
