Second Gen

iTrader: (4)

I pulled the UIM on the my 3rd Gen and all I have to say os Wow!! I simplified the 2nd Gen TII, but I am really going to do the same to this monster. The previos owner also tie wrapped the hoses which makes it look worse. I am sure that part of the reason that the 3rd Gens look more clustered is the coils under the UIM as well.

Can someone provide the BEST writeup/pictures to make remove the solinoid rack and all the vaccum lines (I saw a few other posts, but nothing as detailed as the ones for the 2nd Gens)?

Here is the picture of the current mess!

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Search for "Hose Job". I can't believe you haven't heard of the rat's nest.

I did a writeup you might not have found:

http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/Write-Up.PDF

roadsterdoc

I've never done this before, and always thought it was rude..but I have to do it:

NEWB! :P

DaleClark

iTrader: (55)

You can get rid of some of the mess if you're ditching all the emissions. But, that's not something to take lightly - going to a midpipe many times means boost control problems, and you really need a fuel computer if you're running a midpipe.

That said, you can do the "simplified sequential" where you get rid of the emissions solenoids but keep the solenoids that run the turbo system.

Yeah, it's complicated and a mess, but with the upper intake manifold on you really don't see it. I was a big fan of a "bare block" FC, but I have no qualms with all that stuff on my FD. If you have a good hose job (BTW, looks like you just have stock vacuum lines with some Zip-ties, which does nothing) and everything's routed right, you won't have any probs.

Dale

zinx

iTrader: (3)

Throw it all away and go single with an aftermarket ems

rx7racerboy2003

easy trick to rewire everything up is to mark the hoses and where they go with different color fingernail polish and when ur done use some remover and it comes right off. only thing i could find with enough colors at the house at the time and it worked.

oorx7

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to do a hose job, might I make a couple of sugestions. I would use viton hose by high temp silicone, they might have a couple of sets left. Also you might whant to buy a set of viton check valves from dale ^^. just

jeremyb

Rob Robinette's site has a write-up for the "vacuum hose simplification". It does look alot neater and makes things look ALOT less like madusa's head/rat's nest.

Jeremy

P.S. Dave, your link "cannont be found". Is it just me or is it down for now?

turbojeff

iTrader: (30)

If you take the coil rack out (FC coils aren't under UIM FYI FD owners) you might find although the FD has more hoses than a TII they are more concise and easier to deal with on the whole IMHO. I can take the UIM off a stock FD a lot quicker than I can take it off a TII.

Just food for thought.

roadsterdoc

You guys are so helpful, now I feel even more like a tool for my "newb" post.
I'm standing in shadows of giants right now, but I did have fun for a microsecond.

ijneb

true non seq = the way

I'm still on break in on this motor (556miles down) and driving normal i hit the 5psi boost cut very quick.

Second Gen

iTrader: (4)

Right now I am going to have to get her running first. I am working on pulling the motor and getting ready to rebuild (Was supposedly a Mazda reman less than 10,000 miles ago). I hope to find good rotor housings and stuck Apex seals (Probably wishful thinking). Maybe I will just replace the factory hoses with new rubber/viton and look to do a Stage 2/3 BNR later this Summer. I am not looking for huge numbers (Would like to see around 350 without having to be @ 7K RPM's). Will search for some more posts this evening (Off to work).
Thanks Again
Secong Gen (I think need to change my name on the Forum - Huh!)

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Oops, there was still a mistake

http://web.newsguy.com/geesaman/Write-up.PDF

JONSKI

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=129174

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=167287


You shouldn't need to, but in case you want to remove the entire rack. The side I'm holding is the side closest to the firewall.

M104-AMG

iTrader: (8)

FWIW, unless you're ONLY tracking your car or drag racing, IMHO, sequentials when set-up right is the way to go to have some good low-rpm torque.

I auto-x and street-drive the car, and when I drove a single-setup, there was just too much lag and too hard to modulate at street/auto-x speeds.

:-) neil

JaNusSolSumnus

Simplified Sequentials, represent!



What is visable is all that there is... the onyl non-visable part that is actually UNDER the UIM instead of infront of it is the FPR solenoid.

~Kris

roadsterdoc

I love my stock sequential twins on the street. When I had my PFC tuned by Steve Kan, he was getting 15psi at 2500 rpms! No single can do that. If you can live with 300rwhp, keep 'em.

JaNusSolSumnus, what is involved with the simplified seq setup?