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Old 06-28-12, 12:26 AM
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Wont stay running

I need some ideas. I'm running out of them. I pulled my car up on the driveway so I could do some work (it was running great mind you, idling great). I jacked up the car and to summarize I removed my midpipe and installed a wideband sensor, I did the ast delete mod, installed sensors for water temp, oil temp and pressure hooked all my gauges up, changed the oil, coolant, and tranny fluid and put it all back together.

I went to start her up and it didn't really want to start. When I could get it to start it didn't want to stay alive. It sputtered and kept wanting to die every time I started it and wouldn't stay running if I let off the gas. There was smoke billowing out the exhaust and it sounded like the timing was off and/or it was missing. I checked the spark plugs and sure enough one of my wires was unplugged. I checked it and it looked pretty jacked inside so I went ahead and replaced all the spark wires. Put everything back and tried starting it again. It started and sounded a bit better but still didn't sound right or want to stay alive. It died on me again so I tried restarting it and it didn't really want to start. I got it to start but it wanted to die, still sound like **** and more smoke. Sooo... that's the story any one have ideas for me?
Old 06-28-12, 12:32 AM
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Well based on what I've been told that when it's smoking from the tailpipe it usually means a blown engine, or blown turbo (though I think when the turbo blows it smokes from under the hood too, but I have no idea). But I have a similar issue, mine is hard to start and smokes a lot once it does start (granted mines an FC). However I'm pretty sure if your TPS is off far enough it could cause the car to want to die during idle so maybe check that?

Sorry, I don't know a whole lot about this stuff, but that's the stuff I've been told.
Old 06-28-12, 09:45 AM
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It is just flooded. Do the de-flood procedure correctly, install new plugs and enjoy.
Old 06-28-12, 10:14 AM
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Definitely flooded. You can't just start the car, pull it into the driveway, then shut it off. Gotta let it run for a bit.
Old 06-28-12, 10:29 AM
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What is is the de-flooding procedure? I searched and didn't find anything.
Old 06-28-12, 10:39 AM
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Originally Posted by Ripley
What is is the de-flooding procedure? I searched and didn't find anything.
I've heard alot of ways to do this .. I only flooded my car once

but it was bad . I put the throttle to the floor and cranked it until it
started .. granted I needed a battery booster cus it drained my battery pretty bad


when i replaced the injectors one had stuck open and was pouring fuel . so it was alot.. and doing this worked

there are other methods like taking the plugs off , cranking the car with the EGI fuse off so that the plugs dont fire and as some gas will prob spurt from the holes
Old 06-28-12, 11:00 AM
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Remove all four spark plugs, remove EGI Fuse. Crank the car for two or three 5-7 second intervals. Install new spark plugs, reinstall EGI fuse and enjoy.
Old 06-28-12, 11:10 AM
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Wouldn't thing clear up after the car fire up if it's just flooded?

You might have another issue if it continue to flood, maybe a leaky injector or weak spark.
Old 06-28-12, 11:18 AM
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The spark plugs are pretty new. I replaced them just before I put the car away for 7 months and didn't drive it. I will try the easy fix first thought. Thank you for all of the help guys.
Old 06-28-12, 11:32 AM
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If you dont have a spark plug cleaner then REPLACE THEM. Ive fouled plugs in less than 5 mins of run time on these cars. Everyone asks for advice then doesnt listen.
Old 06-28-12, 03:59 PM
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I'm listening. I guess that was just my way of asking if I NEED to replace them since they are newer or not. :P
Old 06-28-12, 04:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Ripley
I'm listening. I guess that was just my way of asking if I NEED to replace them since they are newer or not. :P
You can foul them pretty easily with a flooded engine. If you don't have a plug cleaner, it's a good idea to grab a new set "just in case". Worst case, you have an extra set to plug in for you next maintenance to the car (which is not a bad thing).
Old 06-29-12, 09:58 AM
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UPDATE: So first thing I found before I started messing with plugs and injectors was that I had way too much oil. My dad has been helping me work on the car and it looks like we put about 5qts in........ So I drained the oil and put in the right amount. What sort if issues could this cause? After all that I tried starting. No go. I pulled the plugs and cranked the engine without the EGI fuse. Put in new plugs and plugged everything back in.

I tried starting it and I'm still having the same issue. Sound crappy and wont idle, just wants to die. White smoke out the exhausts. Sounds sputtery.
Old 06-29-12, 10:51 AM
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This is typically what I do:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...44#post8201444
Old 06-29-12, 12:16 PM
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The following WILL ONLY work if you dont have a vacuum leak anywhere passed the Throttle body


Do this my friend.
1. Remove the intake platic piece that attaches to the throttle body
2. Remove the air hose that is attached to the side of that same plastic intake and pull it back as far out of ur way as possible.
3. Loosen the TPS one screw bolt on top and one screw bolt on the bottom if you cant get to them then remove the throttle body through the 4 12mm nuts keep the coolant hoses on. - Just pull it out towards you and turn it slightly to the left.
4. Reinstall Throttle body with the tps now slightly loose.
5. Bring the TPS all the way down pointing down. - (The lower it is th ehigher the Voltage and RPM)
6. There is a little tiny screw called the fast idle screw is infront of the TPS on the Throttle body lossen it a few turns
7. Find the air bleed screw on the bottom of the throttle body you can use a flat head and turn it leftly loosy
(NOW TURN YOUR CAR ON) IT WILL IDLE prolly around 2k to 3k rpms with some hunting and droops but it will stay idling)
8. NOW... all you need to do is lower the idle as needed.
9. First retighten up the fast idle screw the tighter it is the lower the rpms becuase it restricts air from the bottom flap of the intake.
10. Adjust the TPS with the use of a voltmeter. check instructions here.
http://www.rx7.org/Robinette/tps_adj.htm make sure the all measurements are witn in spec. The lower the voltage the less open the throttle.
11. play around with the air bleed screw to adjust the throttle as needed.

P.S. I would have someone inside the car yelling the rpm level as you adjust them.
Old 06-29-12, 01:10 PM
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In my mind it has to be ignition or fuel related. It just sounds like the timing is off. The part I dont understand is the white smoke. I don't know. Could it have caused problems that I overfilled the oil? I mean I had almost twice as much oil as it is supposed to take in there.

It ran flawless before I did all this work. I've had it run like this before and that was when one of the plugs was disconnected. I don't remember smoke though. I had a bit of trouble getting one of the plug wires connected because of the oil filler neck. I'm wondering if its not connected properly. I've done everything Mahjik suggested minus the ATF. Also thank you for your input Peruvianrx7. I don't think that will fix my issue though. The porblem isn't the idle. Even if I could get it to idle it will still be running crappy and i'll have my smoke problem. I've held my foot on the gas once it was started just a bit to see if it would even out and it just sputters almost sounding like the timing is off and the smoke billows out.
Old 06-29-12, 02:20 PM
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Landon,
Long shot, but double check the boost sensor. It's on the firewall, just aft of the throttle-body. Make sure that vacuum line is attached. It runs to a vacuum port on the UIM. Make sure that's connected too.
What your describing is really close to how they run with the boost sensor vacuum line off or the sensor unplugged.
Old 06-29-12, 02:25 PM
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Thanks Jimmy Jim Jim! I check that out too. Dang thing is frustrating me. Good to see ya
Old 06-29-12, 02:35 PM
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Regardless you may still need to de-flood or different plugs.
Old 06-30-12, 10:28 AM
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I didn't even think of it but if you changed your oil filter it is very possible you hit the map sensor Vac line and disconnected it.
Old 07-04-12, 07:40 PM
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Ok.....arg. I have done everything suggested. I checked the sparkplug wires and made sure they were connected properly. I replaced the plugs with brand new ones. I double checked all the connections. Everything should be fine. So the engine is not flooded, the plugs are fine, all the vac hoses I checked are connected. What the heck. I need more ideas.

Still won't stay running, sputters and sounds crappy, white smoke out the tail.
Old 07-04-12, 07:45 PM
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did you do what i told u?
Old 07-04-12, 08:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Ripley
What the heck. I need more ideas.
Compression test and/or new fuel (in case you have some bad stuff in the tank).
Old 07-05-12, 08:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Ripley
Ok.....arg. I have done everything suggested. I checked the sparkplug wires and made sure they were connected properly. I replaced the plugs with brand new ones. I double checked all the connections. Everything should be fine. So the engine is not flooded, the plugs are fine, all the vac hoses I checked are connected. What the heck. I need more ideas.

Still won't stay running, sputters and sounds crappy, white smoke out the tail.
You positive you didnt knock the MAP sensor line loose, then connect it to the nub on the TB that looks like a vacuum port but is not? Ive bougth a couple FDS with "blown engines" where this was the case.
Old 07-05-12, 10:14 AM
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Peruvianrx7 I know the problem isn't getting it to idle. If i keep my foot slightly on the gas it runs terribly and smoke blows out the exhaust. I did read your recommendation, but I honestly know that wouldn't fix my problem.

There was less than a quarter tank of gas that sat for about 6-7 months and I filled the tank with new gas. I left the old gas in there and I'm not sure if I should have done that. I was hoping that with the amount of gas I put in that was new versus the older gas would be good enough to cover for the old.

djseven I am positive. I checked the map sensor line and ensured it was connected to the proper place.


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