the car wont go down past 1300rpm-1500rpm when car is warm.
all the adjustments are fine. no cable's binding to hold it open. havent done any mods since it started. when driveing down a rode in lower Rpms the car will decelarte then acclerate it will do this as long as the car runs and moves. i watch my vac and it stays the same when it does that. i checked my compression today and it came up 110psi in both rotors (great news). this started 2 days ago. its like the AWS wont shut off.

also if i let the clutch out while its in gear and make the rpms drop down sometimes they will stay down.

i have searched, thanks.

 

i'm confused by your explanation. is the idle stuck at 1300rpm or is it hunting (decelerate/accelerate)?

have you done any repairs recently?

if it is hunting, it sounds like it may be your idle speed controller. search for ISC.

 

its not hunting at times it will run at 1300rpm or some times it will go up higher to 1500rpm. it decelerate accelerates when its moving really slow like in the 1000rpm range to 1500rpm range, while it doing that the vac. stays the same.

 

Make sure there's not a hose off somewhere causeing an intake leak. More air means higher idle without the ability to compinsate.

Greg

 

Rx7,

Standard procedures, check the AAS under the TB elbow. Check the throttle pre-load screw on top of the TB. What ECU and how long has this been occuring? Has it ever been normal, and if so, what was normal idle for you?

 

i got a DP and intake right now. i have my powerFC coming soon meant ot be here yesterday but ya know.
normal idle was the stock one 700-800rpm. im going to check everything and get back, thanks guys

 

there is an idle adjuster under the intake elbow like clayne was saying

 

yeah i checked that and its all the way closed i thought i might be being dumb so i went the other way and the idle went up more so i know its all the way closed.
i took the intake elbow off and checked the butterfly valves on it and they were also closed all the way. im clueless!!!!!! i check for any vacum leaks, i sprade carb cleaner all over everything but nothing changed.

 

I had a similar problem only mine idled a bit higher. I could not find the vacuum leak at first. I finally pulled off the ic hose to the intake elbow and placed a cd jewel case over the end of the elbow, thus blocking off any air. My car continued to run indicating a vacuum leak. I then sprayed some carb cleaner behind the air pump and cross over pipe area. End result was I had a bad lower intake manifold gasket.

 

Hey thanks i am going to try that!!!!!!! tomorrows project.... any more ideas????

 

n/t

 

Consistent high idle around 1500rpms on a stock ported car with no vacuum leaks, throttle cable adjusted, idle air screw adjusted per FSM, is the wax rod.

--Ashraf

 

what is the "wax rod" any links? easy fix?

 

I think he means situation normal.

 

how would it be normal for it to idle at 1500rpm when the engine is completely warmed up????????? and it was idleing at 700-800rpm a week ago and i did nothing to it?

 

The wax rod (I forget what exactly the FSM calls it) pushes the throttle plates open ever so slightly, hence the high idle. Idle is hence mechanically and electronically controlled.

Read the factory manual, it is in there.

--Ashraf

 

dont have a factory manual but i found the problem it was a vacum leak next to the turbos. i havent fixed it yet but when i spray carb cleaner down there she'll suck it up and the idle will go down and if i spray enough it will die.

 

one of the following is probally jacked, try to disconnect each system one at a time and see if it stops idling so high, (im assuming you already checked cable slack and tried to adjust the idle via adjusting the 2 different screws and have already checked for an air leak via spraying something like carb cleaner or starter fluid around joints and seeing if idle goes up or down)

dashpot
ISC
AWS
Wax rod assembly
fast idle screw
the airpump solenoid