TwinTurbo93

Hey everyone,
For you guys that you removed the air pump, did your FD idle lumpy or is just my car.
If yes what did you do to make it idle normal again? Will a resistor work?

Before I removed the air pump sometimes the connector would come off and the car would idle like crap so I put it back and it would idle superb.
Now I removed the pump completely and for over 2 months still idles crapy.

Any help/Idea appreciated

HazardRX-7

yeah i've had the same problem for a while now too

David Beale

Without the air pump it will idle poorly. You may be able to fix that by removing the ACV. Mine idled poorly (but never threatened to stall) after I removed the air pump. The car had not had cats. on it for some time, and I wanted more room under the hood. When I installed the Power FC (removed the PFS PMC) it fixed the idle. Runs fine now (well, not now, it's -16 C out and the car is on jackstands, but when it's not winter...) .

DCrosby

The Air Pump has to do with the recirculation of the exhaust gases back into the intake, and if you want the lumpyness to dissapear you have to remove all the smog crap... and replace it with block off plates, so that your air fuel mixture is correct at idle...

I decided that that was too much troubble especially since I'll need it every two years, and it's just easier to loose a couple of HP, than to pay / install it every few years...

SWAT81

iTrader: (14)

interesting, I should keep this in mind since I'm removing mine soon Perhaps thats why my idle is jumpy at times since I disconnected my air pump

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

so anyone know how many HP is gained by removing the airpump???

Rx-7$4$me

You dont gain any hp, or any benefits of removing it on the stock ecu or stock cat. The only minescule thing you could pull out of it, would bet its one less pully to turn, and 10 pounds less weight.

DCrosby

Which is drag on the engine, especially if the clutch engages and the pump is in operation... so you are loosing hp, just not a whole lot... A guess would be less than 10

Kento

Insignificant, especially since it shuts off after 3250 rpm; not exactly an engine speed where you're looking for every last ounce of horsepower...

RotorMotor

iTrader: (5)

also when removing the airpimp dont you run into problems with your water pump pully not having enough belt tension on it?? i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular? i would only do it if i could fabricate a dummy pully that just spun in its place... belt slip on the water pump is MUCH more of a concern than an extra 10HP.... but i really would like to save 10lbs up front!!!!!

TwinTurbo93

Well, all the smog crapp is gone same time as the air pump.

TwinTurbo93

I did it mainly to make more space and simplify stuff under the hood, horspower gain I think very minimal or maybe even nothing.

I realized that the water pump belt must be very tight since the contact to it is not strong, the belt is almoast direct and if litle water goes on belt it will slip easy and the pump will almoast stop and that's not something you whana let happen.

SpoolinRX

iTrader: (6)

If you are concerened with belt slip = get smaller belt. have a nice day.

rynberg

I have wondered that the last two years. I always get lowers weight and simplifies. IMO, it doesn't really simplify anything as it is easily removed for any repairs. 10 lbs is 10 lbs, I guess.

You have to have a programmable ecu to fix the idle after removing the air pump (PFC, PMS, AEM, Haltech, etc).

TwinTurbo93

I have a pettit remapped ECU so is basicaly the same as stock in that matter .