Without air pump..
#1
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Without air pump..
Hey everyone,
For you guys that you removed the air pump, did your FD idle lumpy or is just my car.
If yes what did you do to make it idle normal again? Will a resistor work?
Before I removed the air pump sometimes the connector would come off and the car would idle like crap so I put it back and it would idle superb.
Now I removed the pump completely and for over 2 months still idles crapy.
Any help/Idea appreciated
For you guys that you removed the air pump, did your FD idle lumpy or is just my car.
If yes what did you do to make it idle normal again? Will a resistor work?
Before I removed the air pump sometimes the connector would come off and the car would idle like crap so I put it back and it would idle superb.
Now I removed the pump completely and for over 2 months still idles crapy.
Any help/Idea appreciated
#3
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Without the air pump it will idle poorly. You may be able to fix that by removing the ACV. Mine idled poorly (but never threatened to stall) after I removed the air pump. The car had not had cats. on it for some time, and I wanted more room under the hood. When I installed the Power FC (removed the PFS PMC) it fixed the idle. Runs fine now (well, not now, it's -16 C out and the car is on jackstands, but when it's not winter...) .
#4
No it's not Turbo'd
The Air Pump has to do with the recirculation of the exhaust gases back into the intake, and if you want the lumpyness to dissapear you have to remove all the smog crap... and replace it with block off plates, so that your air fuel mixture is correct at idle...
I decided that that was too much troubble especially since I'll need it every two years, and it's just easier to loose a couple of HP, than to pay / install it every few years...
I decided that that was too much troubble especially since I'll need it every two years, and it's just easier to loose a couple of HP, than to pay / install it every few years...
#7
Rotary Enthusiast
You dont gain any hp, or any benefits of removing it on the stock ecu or stock cat. The only minescule thing you could pull out of it, would bet its one less pully to turn, and 10 pounds less weight.
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#8
No it's not Turbo'd
Which is drag on the engine, especially if the clutch engages and the pump is in operation... so you are loosing hp, just not a whole lot... A guess would be less than 10
#10
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also when removing the airpimp dont you run into problems with your water pump pully not having enough belt tension on it?? i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular? i would only do it if i could fabricate a dummy pully that just spun in its place... belt slip on the water pump is MUCH more of a concern than an extra 10HP.... but i really would like to save 10lbs up front!!!!!
#11
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Originally posted by DCrosby
The Air Pump has to do with the recirculation of the exhaust gases back into the intake, and if you want the lumpyness to dissapear you have to remove all the smog crap... and replace it with block off plates, so that your air fuel mixture is correct at idle...
I decided that that was too much troubble especially since I'll need it every two years, and it's just easier to loose a couple of HP, than to pay / install it every few years...
The Air Pump has to do with the recirculation of the exhaust gases back into the intake, and if you want the lumpyness to dissapear you have to remove all the smog crap... and replace it with block off plates, so that your air fuel mixture is correct at idle...
I decided that that was too much troubble especially since I'll need it every two years, and it's just easier to loose a couple of HP, than to pay / install it every few years...
#12
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Originally posted by RotorMotor
also when removing the airpimp dont you run into problems with your water pump pully not having enough belt tension on it?? i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular? i would only do it if i could fabricate a dummy pully that just spun in its place... belt slip on the water pump is MUCH more of a concern than an extra 10HP.... but i really would like to save 10lbs up front!!!!!
also when removing the airpimp dont you run into problems with your water pump pully not having enough belt tension on it?? i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular? i would only do it if i could fabricate a dummy pully that just spun in its place... belt slip on the water pump is MUCH more of a concern than an extra 10HP.... but i really would like to save 10lbs up front!!!!!
I realized that the water pump belt must be very tight since the contact to it is not strong, the belt is almoast direct and if litle water goes on belt it will slip easy and the pump will almoast stop and that's not something you whana let happen.
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Originally posted by RotorMotor
i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular?
i wonder why the air pump removal is so popular?
You have to have a programmable ecu to fix the idle after removing the air pump (PFC, PMS, AEM, Haltech, etc).
#15
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Originally posted by rynberg
I have wondered that the last two years. I always get lowers weight and simplifies. IMO, it doesn't really simplify anything as it is easily removed for any repairs. 10 lbs is 10 lbs, I guess.
You have to have a programmable ecu to fix the idle after removing the air pump (PFC, PMS, AEM, Haltech, etc).
I have wondered that the last two years. I always get lowers weight and simplifies. IMO, it doesn't really simplify anything as it is easily removed for any repairs. 10 lbs is 10 lbs, I guess.
You have to have a programmable ecu to fix the idle after removing the air pump (PFC, PMS, AEM, Haltech, etc).