I've shecked everything...

Stock 550's. PFC (Stock maps)

Test light shows power at the plugs.. Just no fire.. Is there anything else I can look for before I yank the injectors?

I've pulled plugs and cranked looking for mist and nothing...

Thanks.

 

Well... I hooked the injectors to a 9V battery. They opened fine. Car actually fired after that.. But hooked the injectors back up to the harness and back to nothing..

SO... I don't have the correct voltage at the injectors.. I know SOMETHING is there becuase the test light lit up with the key on..

Anyone know the correct voltage?

Where could I be losing voltage?

Could a ground cause it?

Lastly... On the primary injectors: Is the colored wire power, or is the black/yellow wire?

If anyone has the time I appreciate it.

 

black/yellow, black/white pretty much are always ground.

front pri = green/red
rear pri = green/black

If I'm not mistaken, bat volt. is always sent through g/r and g/b. ECU then oscillates ground connection to set duty cycle.

 

clayne, as always thanks! Great forum member to have handy.

Turns out, there is something wrong with the harness... When I tapped both injector grounds together, car fired right up.

Anyone wanna hear a huge streetported TO4R start for the first time?

Buddy zach got video... Hopefully we'll get it up tonight.

 

woo hoo!

 

must be nice

 

Even though a hacked up ground like that is not proper, you should be fine as far as running the engine goes.

Both grounds end up being tied together anyways.

Oh, and the ECU oscillates signal via the non-ground wires. Just looked that up.

 

Thanks clayne!

I'm still confused as to how it worked... but oh well.. It WORKED! I plan on tearing it apart again.. Just in case there's really something wrong.

 

Well the B/Y wire on one of your injectors has an open in it. So when you tied it to the other injector harness, that injector with the open had access to ground again.

ECU just uses a squarewave with variable frequency to connect LG/R and LG/B to ground - creating electromagnetic actuation in the solenoid.

 

VIDEO this ****** thing is PRIMAL! haha i love it.

http://www.planethalflife.com/uncros...tup%20edit.mpg

 

damn...... those balsa wood racing seals worked pretty well......

port job doesn't sound too bad either

 

P.S.

Just run a new wire to the main relay or something equivalent. You do not want to open that harness.

If you're thinking of re-wrapping, do not do it with the harness on the car. You'll break your back doing it.

I rewrapped my entire harness in 500F teflon + 500F silicone and I will never do it again with the harness still on the engine.

 

wow, post enough lol


Hey what are you using for the coupler from the turbo tothe intercooler. I need an elbow like that, what IC is that?

 

That's PERDY!!!!!!!

 

Just to give you guys an idea of just how brittle the stock wrap gets:



That is a 1/2" drive ratchet with 19 mm socket resting directly on top of a piece of the stock harness wrap.

Mazda used romex which only handles up to around 80C. It is BAD in our engine bay.

You even get wiring that ends up looking like this under the wrap:





Some form of oxidization that makes it past the wrapping.

 

IIRC, its the intake elbow off the primary stock turbo

 

Also check out some posts from Jason93RX-7R1.. He did this before me and pretty much had the same thing to say.

 

You da man.

 

That video is ejaculatory.

 

Haha that's one way of putting it!!

 

NOIIICE!!!!

Ill seriously dream about my fd being back together after that
I know youve been waiting a long time its only been 2 months for me Ill continue my strike until I can find a decent motor!!

 

<---- January 6th of 03

 

I had mine down from Feb 2000 to Sep 2003.

 

I thought you were like "right there"?

WTF, mate? You need help?