Whose good with Electrical here???
#1
Don't speak anymore...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tally-No, FL
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Whose good with Electrical here???
Ok so here's the deal. my passenger window does not go down. The window motor works though because I can 12v jump it and we are good. Well when I press the switch it doesnt seem to work up or down... Funny thing is when i took off the door panel and broke out the multi meter I was getting power to the Power Window Subswitch as I should. Its just that the window refuses to go down. I know its not the power window switch because i have 3 of them and they all do the same thing. Drivers window works but no passenger. Oh and its not the on/off switch either, that's elementary guys. Help please...
#3
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Remember that the passenger switch wires go to the drivers side so that the driver can control that window and also disable the up/down switches using the on/off switch. I had a similar problem some time ago and it turned out to be a dirty contacts on the drivers side passenger switch. Just FYI, that was my experience.
#5
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I guess I dont fully understand.
Of your three brand new switches, are they all passenger switches that install in the passenger door?
The window goes up ok, but not down?
Does the passenger window go down when using the drivers side switch or are they both dead?
Of your three brand new switches, are they all passenger switches that install in the passenger door?
The window goes up ok, but not down?
Does the passenger window go down when using the drivers side switch or are they both dead?
#6
Don't speak anymore...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tally-No, FL
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
no they are all drivers side switches that have both drivers and passenger in them. The passenger alone does not work also so it has to be a wiring issue. I know the window motor works because i can 12v jump them.
#7
Full Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Oshkosh, WI
Posts: 54
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
After checking the wire diagram i see that a gunked up passenger subswitch could interrupt the control from the drivers side switch as well. Also note the drivers side switch assembly provides the ground circuit for the passenger motor. When you check voltage at the subswitch make sure you use the ground point from the wire harness and not the cars body.
I think the easy way to check it would be to use a voltmeter. Attach one lead to the Black/White wire coming into the subswitch, and the other lead to the Black/Yellow. Now go operate the drivers side switch and you should see the following:
TEST #1
(Subswitch Connected)
Switch Off: No voltage
Switch Up: Either +12 or -12
Switch Dn: Opposite of Switch Up, either -12 or +12
If this passes then I would lean on the passenger subswitch being bad.
TEST #2
(Subswitch DISCONNECTED)
To further test the passenger subwitch i would check the following scenarios:
Resistance across the Red wire and Black/White wire: <10 ohms when off or down and >1000 ohms when up.
Resistance across the Green wire and Black/Yellow: <10 ohms when off or up and >1000 ohms when down.
Resistance across the Red and White/Blue should be <10 ohms when up
Resistance across the Green and White/Blue should be <10 ohms when down
If test 2 fails i would further suspect the subswitch being bad, or corroded wiring going into it.
Remember the corrosion will affect the voltage/resistance reading so clean the contacts first. For test 1 I would tap into the wires using a straight pin, that way you take the dirty contacts out of the picture.
Good luck.
I think the easy way to check it would be to use a voltmeter. Attach one lead to the Black/White wire coming into the subswitch, and the other lead to the Black/Yellow. Now go operate the drivers side switch and you should see the following:
TEST #1
(Subswitch Connected)
Switch Off: No voltage
Switch Up: Either +12 or -12
Switch Dn: Opposite of Switch Up, either -12 or +12
If this passes then I would lean on the passenger subswitch being bad.
TEST #2
(Subswitch DISCONNECTED)
To further test the passenger subwitch i would check the following scenarios:
Resistance across the Red wire and Black/White wire: <10 ohms when off or down and >1000 ohms when up.
Resistance across the Green wire and Black/Yellow: <10 ohms when off or up and >1000 ohms when down.
Resistance across the Red and White/Blue should be <10 ohms when up
Resistance across the Green and White/Blue should be <10 ohms when down
If test 2 fails i would further suspect the subswitch being bad, or corroded wiring going into it.
Remember the corrosion will affect the voltage/resistance reading so clean the contacts first. For test 1 I would tap into the wires using a straight pin, that way you take the dirty contacts out of the picture.
Good luck.
Trending Topics
#12
Don't speak anymore...
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Tally-No, FL
Posts: 471
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
... This is beginning to urk me because I do not do electrical at all. I'm a thinker yes, but when it comes to understanding current...that's when I go to the guys who get payed to do it... Not saying I'm giving up, simply saying I don't understand... kinda sux.
#13
Enter Title Here
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Sioux Falls, SD
Posts: 767
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Mine has a similar problem, but it's the harness the passenger side switch plugs into on the door. If it's not working I'll just push them together and it'll work just fine. It must have been pulled on hard at one time so there's some play in it now.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post