powermalex

I have a white residue in my oil filler neck. The PVC was clogged with it. I cleaned the PVC and it works now. I can feel the vacum from the PVC but when I connect it back to the oil filler neck I can't feel the vacum when I put my finger inside of the hole in the filler tube. The "T" at the filler tube also feeds a tube that gose to the air intake. I think I'm losing the vacum at the air inlet tube. Is this normal? Can I just plug up the tube that goes to the turbo air inlet to get vacum at the filler oil tube?

clayne

No. You should keep that constant vaccum line to the compressor inlet side intact.

But you should remove the ancillary PCV line routed to the intake manifold - leaving you with only the vaccum line to the compressor side.

Optimal would be to use a catch can inline with this setup.

powermalex

Ok So what do I do with the moisture from the oil filler. I need some way to vent the Blow by gases out. I'm getting moisture build up. Thats what all the white puse is. oil and water. Almost looks like lithium grease but lighter.

Kento

Most of the time, that's natural moisture build-up inside your engine that condenses, then starts to get "cooked off" as it heats up (especially since it's pretty chilly in the midwest at this time, no?). Take a look at the filler neck after your engine has been running a while and is nice and hot (not overheating, obviously), and if it still looks like someone dropped a candy bar down there, then perhaps you may have a problem.

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

what problem could one expect if the situation you just described actually happened? not saying this happened to me I am just trying to get info on this hypothetical situation... can't hurt to know

clayne

Greater fuel dilution of the oil, which cuts down on lubrication properties.

power, that's what the current system is doing. I would possibly check the main line to the compressor inlet for crap in it, but I otherwise recommend a catch can between the filler neck and the compressor inlet.

powermalex

I need to mention that my FD is driven less than 2500 miles a year. When I do drive it its driven hard from 0-60 sprints on occaionally when clear and safe a 0 to >80 sprint on the on ramp. I Always make sure the 2nd turbos kick in. Could this also be from a lack of drive time on the FD.

Kento

I would say you'd need to at least drive the car 20 minutes or longer each time you do take it out. If you just take it out on a few short bursts, then park it in the garage, all that does is condense the moisture inside your sump and allow it to mix with the sulfur in the oil (a by-product of combustion), which turns into a nasty brew called sulfuric acid. Needless to say, that's not good for your engine, especially if it sits for long periods of time. You need to get the oil hot enough to "cook off" the moisture.

mad_7tist

just to be safe i would pull the dipstick and make sure the oil pan is not MilkShaked. that is bad and could mean another prob

powermalex

Oil is honey. I use castrol Synthetic oil. Its change every 2500 miles or every six months. Which ever comes first. Its usaully the six months that come first. Yes I do drive it long enough for eveything to get warm/hot. The 0 to 60 sprints always garantees a hot run. I'm thinking of removing the oil cap after driving to vent the moisture out. I always open the hood after a run and look over the motor bay before she's covered up for the weeks.
I don't drive the FD much. Only on nice days or during FD meets. She has 90XXX on her and 15K on the motor.
Thanks for the reply.

Radical Rotary Avantgard

Powermalex, usually you note this during winter time rigth??
Dino oil contains paraffin(wax) and as it is burned off by combustion heat, the wax condenses at the filler neck and cap. The residue is milky like, with a brownish white color.
100% "real synthetic oil" do not contain wax (there are few of these in the market), most all others brands claiming being "PURE" synthetic oil are a blend of dino and synthetic.
Once I changed to Mobil 1, no more residue.
I'm no oil expert, but I stayed at the Holiday Inn last night.

Kento

Not all dino oils contain paraffins. Actually, IIRC, only Pennzoil (as far as name brands) still uses a base oil that contains paraffins.

mad_7tist

all oil is petroleum based yes even 100% syn. syn just has synthetic polymers and detergents stc in it.

Kento

Ahh, that's a big NEGATIVE, ghostrider. Group V ester-based synthetics are highly refined from animal and vegetable-based fatty acids. And because they can be made to exactly the viscosity desired, they don't need polymer additives.

mad_7tist

i thought ester oil was used in compressors and some diesel fuels not as a replacement for the petroleum. but this is another myth ladden area so i am not sure

rajeevx7

iTrader: (11)

I've always heard that white residue in the oil is a direct result of a broken o-ring and thus the coolant mixing with the circulating oil.

It happens the same way when the water jacket of a piston engine breaks.

White-lithium like grease under in neck and rust plus white goo in cap.

I hope the other guys are right and it is just simple and natural for yours, but I've had 4 engines in 2 FD's and the new ones never did it, as where the old ones always had that goo. And along with it came smokey start up and pretty soon I splurged for a reman.

Raj

Kento

Motul is a 100% ester-based lubricant. I know that Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple, and a couple of other synthetic brands have some ester base oils in their makeup, but to what extent, I'm not sure.

Oh yeah, I was slightly incorrect; some synthetics do have polymer additives. It's the PAO (polyalphaolefin) synthetics like Mobil 1 that have some polymer viscosity modifiers (but not nearly as much as regular dino oils).

Sorry, maybe getting a little here.