doing a motor swap from my dying 13b to a fresh rebuilt one. other than ALL the coolant/fuel, is there anything else i should just go ahead and replace.

i am doing nylon braided lines and screw clamps for all coolant and nylon braid for fuel with the stock clamps or would the screw clamps be fine? also, rats nest is already done.... going non-seq...

 

Although most everyone uses the screw clamps they are actually hard on hoses etc. because everyone always way over tightens them and screws the hose . Where as the spring clamp put plenty of pressure on the hoses to keep them from leaking and they save the hose in the clamp area . There is absolutely no reason to tighten the screw clamps till the hose is squashing through the slots in the clamp. IMO the stock clamps are much more friendly on the hoses and do a fine job And most important they can't be overtightened .. Have a good one Gerald m

 

Stock clamps are the best option for both coolant and fuel hoses paired with stock hoses when the components are located in the original locations. They are constant torque/tension clamps so they expand and contract to accommodate the natural expansion that happens as the metal and fluids expand and contract through heat cycles.

Stock hoses are also the fantastic since they fit perfectly and last a long time and are pre-formed to the motors bends and such.

Why were you contemplating braided stuff?

 

- Replace all of your vacuum caps with silicone ones.
- Ceramichrome intake manifolds
- Re-loom and retape wiring harness
- Relocate coils
- Clean engine bay

There are tons of side projects you could do while pulling an engine.

 

*Plug wires and coil harness
*If your swapping OMP, check or replace the lines, and new copper crush washers.
*Good time to pull the injectors and have them clean and flow tested. You should get new 'O' rings and caps with the service.
*Agree with above...good time to clean and re-wrap the engine harness. Not alot of fun or bling, but it's not hard or expensive either.
*Check/re-torque the tension bolts.
*Replace or at least re-pack a little grease in the pilot bearing.
*Have the flywheel re-surfaced.

 

There is literally NO END to what you can do "while you're in there". It's really how much time and money you want to throw at it.

As stated, doing some cheesy aftermarket lines is a HUGE waste of money. For coolant hoses, ONLY MAZDA HOSE will work. It fits right, it's the right material, it will last an extremely long time.

Same deal on hose clamps - stock spring clamps are the way to go. They're not sexy, but they work fantastic. Worm drive clamps eat into hose and typically cause far more problems.

Dale

 

Thanks for all the replies. It gives me a lot of options. I was thinking about nylon braid as a reliability upgrade. And I will keep the stock clamps now. Didn't know the screw ones were so bad.