^^ I take it you still have your stock IC and stock turbos? If you are boosting only 10 psi on stock twins is probably ok since that is the conditions that he car was design to work with. Given that, 60-70C is stillrather high. I never boost past 50C because my setup has deviated quite a bit from stock. High intake temps = detonation

with my old PFS IC my IC temps were high 30's in the summer (80-90F ambient air), In the winter I saw 20-25C with ambient air in the mid 40's F.

 

I am far from stock...
T04S
PFC
Greddy front mount IC
550/1600cc injectors
Large streetport
the list goes on...

I am however only running 10psi still.

 

As I said before, adequate cooling system (i.e. properly working) will remain stable regardless of fan temperature setting. The some FDs that cannot regulate temps probably don't have adequate cooling systems (i.e. not properly working). Any car should be able to idle for long periods without overheating.


There's the key words... when idling for a while... so what do you do when you are grid-locked in bumper to bumper traffic in the middle of summer? TT usually run, maybe 1 to 2 minutes... how much "cooking" could possibly take place in that short amount of time? If that is your only concern, then the parts used are of inferior quality. Besides, those rubber and plastic parts will "cook" just from nomal driving, not to mention the scenario I stated above, so there's no way a minute or two will accelerate that process.

 

if you have it use it, i leave my blitz on auto, then if i want just the fan i set it for 1min and turn on to acc and take the key out and lock the car. if you fear heat soaking from idle then there is something wrong with your car, it will get to temp but my car can keep 86c constant at idle, well if its not 100+ outside in az heat.

 

Yeah, FDs came with a built in fan that runs when the car is off. Just turn your hot car off and throw the key into aux. 15 seconds later the fans kick on and the light on your center console next to the security light turns on.

As soon as the light is on you can remove your key and lock the door and walk away. The fan will keep blowing until the engine is cool and then it will turn itself off.


EVERYONE: READ YOUR OWNER'S MANUAL!!

I bet you guys don't even know about the static discharge plate in the doors. =\

 

I'm not talking about overheating - I'm talking about unnecessarily increasing temperatures. (And, remember, the stock ECU will happily let the temperature reach 105C before switching on the fans and 108C before setting them on high. Not everybody has a PFC with a Datalogit.)

The real key word is unnecessary. It does not matter how miniscule the wear may or may not be, there is no reason for generating it. (And if you think underhood temperatures on this car are only of concern with inferior quality parts, tell that to someone who has to pay $800 for a new engine harness that is exactly the same quality as the worn one they are replacing.)

It a turbo timer had some useful function in an FD then one could debate the utility of this function versus the wear caused. However, since a turbo timer serves no useful function on an FD, nothing less than zero wear should be acceptable.

 

Does this fan trick work with a PowerFC? And what is a static discharge plate? I don't have the cars manual...

 

I refuse to run a TT on a TT lol

 

I did know about the discharge plate oddly enough! hahaha.

Cool feature I didnt know about it. I'll try it out!
Also, good question about the PFC. I have one as well. Hopefully this has nothing to do with the ECU.

 

Bro that is extremely hight for FMIC, never mind with the single turbo... IIRC most that run FMIC hit intake temps around 25C given the ambient temps are close to 25C . I run a GT35R with an ebay SMIC and my intake temps are in the 30'sC given its about 80F outside.

Have your touched the pipe on the cold side of the IC after driving? is it cool to the touch? note that it should. If it is cool maybe your sensor went south.

 

I do not have any ducting for the FMIC and the rad. I'm in the process of deciding the right material to do so with. But believe me when I start actually flowing air, it cools down pretty fast and pretty low. I still have A/C so my setup goes FMIC-A/C condenser-Fluidyne rad, all without ducting...

 

TEMPERATURES WILL NOT INCREASE JUST FROM IDLING... regardless of the fan temp setting. If your car is working properly, when your cooling fans kick on, the temps will remain stable.



If you want to talk about unnecessary, EVERYTHING installed on the car that wasn't included from the OEM is unnecessary. PERIOD! Idling will not generate any additional wear to the underhood parts. The engine harness wear you are referring to is from 13+ years of heat cycling not 1 or 2 minutes of additional idling.

You need to go back and read some of the post about the USEFUL functions. Not speaking for anyone else, but for the $79 I spent for mine, it has paid for itself in time not wasted sitting in the car waiting for it to warm up, piece of mind from not worrying about leaving the key in the car while the car warms up, and the time spent doing other things while the car warms up. I think this is comparable to most remote start systems at about half the cost and not to mention eliminate the dangers of using a remote start on a manual tranny car...

 

Yes they will - and on almost any car until the fans kick in. Before I got a PFC and Datalogit my temperatures went from 85C to 105C+ until the stock fans kicked in. That 20C increase should be avoided if possible.

Warming up a modern car before driving is not useful - and causes significant unnecessary wear:

http://www.thetfordvermont.us/docs/m...ling%20Q&A.pdf

See reference #1 in particular.

I realize (for reasons best known to themselves) that a lot of FD owners warm their cars up before driving, but this habit has even less justification than the use of a turbo timer.

 

Are you mentally ok? Maybe a modern piston car yes. But a motor that has so many different materials in the engine, all with different thermal expansion rates... Not to mention that 1995 is not modern... I believe it's more than just a good idea, it's a proven fact. Would you start up a propeller plane with a piston motor and immediately take off? It would be worse with a rotary. Why are race cars pre-warmed?

But I understand that the benefit is minimal compared to driving very carefully and accelerate lightly until you warm up but while I have tried that as well I just find myself almost getting rear-ended while accelerating.

If something does a benefit to a motor, without any ill side effects, why not do it?

 

Your argument is flawed. Yes race cars do have to warm up so they can be at their optimum operating temperatures, but the argument here is that letting a car sit to warm up will hurt the engine internals more than taking off on a drive. This is because the engine heats up faster which allows the oil to function as it is designed to do.

its okay to start driving a car immediately as long as you aren't wearing the internals on the cold oil by revving the **** out of it on take off. Driving immediately though will allow the oil to heat up faster.

 

Dude, this is the exact same thing I said... when your temps reach a specific degree and fans switch on, your temps will stabilize whether you are driving or idling. So I don't see how your temps will rise when idling; they reach point and level-off when the fans switch on. I think you misunderstood what I typed.



If saving fuel was a concern, we wouldn't be driving these cars... if protecting the environment was a concern, we wouldn't be driving these cars... if saving wear and tear on our engines was a concern, we wouldn't modify them to extract more HP out of them...
it seems you are blaming ALL the root causes of concern on a TT when actually there are many many root causes of concern.
Beside, where in this report do they refer to rotary engines? I'm almost 100% certain this report was done with a piston engine as the focus of the test. And we all know our rotary engines can't be grouped in the same category as piston engines with equal results.


I hope you have your firesuit handy... I think you've just opened a backdraft.

 

my fd doesnt auto turn on the fans if its off and i walk away.

i turn the engine off.
turn the key back to on... turn on my a/c fan mod switch.. and put the TT for however long i want. take the key out. arm the car and walk away.

i mount it with double sided tape in front of the shifter under the head unit area

.... warming up the fd. i do it. cause it drives better that way. +no double butterflys with a rigged fast idle cam.. i feel it necessary.. either that or slightly move the car.. and let it roll down the street where it will warm by the stoplight.

 

Nothing wrong with a turbo timer. I don't know why you are getting flamed.

 

The oil is not the main concern. The true concern with the rotary engine is getting the metal components warm; housings, irons, shaft, rotors, ect. There are so many different metals used in the motor that they will shift and move around as they each warm up at their own rate.

I understand that it is ok to start driving immediately IF you are nice and easy with it. But on the other hand, it does more good to let it warm up. The proper maintenance and use of a rotary motor is almost mirror of a prop plane. Warm it up, maintain often, let it cool down.
EDIT: And no matter what, use some form of premix. Whether you have the working OMP or not.

 

It's because some people buy turbo timers just to say they have one. It's the ricers. People think that if the ricers do it, it is useless. The only truth is that if ricers use it, it is USELESS FOR THEM.

 

Well I'm not gonna get in this whole turbo timer thing.... but:

Actually I don't warm up my car either. I just turn on and drive, I just don't boost. Been doing this for 10 years

There was a thread a few years back about warm up times. Surprinsingly quite a few FD owners did the same.

 

agreed. good product if you have a use for it. otherwise save your money. it should be renamed as Fan timer. or an addition to the electric main parade i got going on in my interior

 

Well, my car doesn't run well until it's warm. It bucks, stalls and runs rough untill the temps get up. This is why I let mine warm up at idle. I know quite a few that do the same for the same reason.

 

Very true for me to. Im also worried about the expansion rates of the metals. You would be surprised at how much the metals can expand and contract and at what rates they do it at.

 

Wow this thread is ridiculous. There's NO reason to warm up your car? You think it actually is damaging?

Warming it up is not as important as cooling it down, but let's not be retarded here.

As far as PFC I have no clue, but if you have PFC you can run the fans sooner and for longer anyway.

It takes a few seconds for the auxfan to kick on but once it is, you can take the key out and walk away.