where can i get motor mounts asap!!
#1
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where can i get motor mounts asap!!
i need good condition motor mounts or new motor mounts. i just wanted to ask if anyone has purchased them from Malloy Mazda and how much were they??
thanks for all the help
thanks for all the help
#5
Blow up or win
Originally posted by scratchjunkie
it'll run ya $500
it'll run ya $500
1-888-533-3400. Tell him you would like a new wall calender too.
I would check MazdaFormance (^up there^) as well just to keep everyone honest - I have *heard* they may be cheaper there.
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#9
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What are the signs of bad motor mounts? I got torque brace as well, so i can't shift the engine, but i'm too lazy to lift the car high enough to actually visualy inspect them.
Amel
Amel
#10
No it's not Turbo'd
MakoDHardie
How are you liking the polyurathane ones ?? Have they changed at all in feel / performance from when you put them on ? and have you ever compared them against solid mounts ??
How are you liking the polyurathane ones ?? Have they changed at all in feel / performance from when you put them on ? and have you ever compared them against solid mounts ??
#14
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Originally posted by rzograbian
how much vibration can you feel with solid mounts or urathane mounts?
how much vibration can you feel with solid mounts or urathane mounts?
#15
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Urethane mounts are really nice. My car still does not have the motor back in it yet, however I did get to crank Scrub's new motor with them installed for one of the first times and it feels as if the motor taps the subframe and then wakes up. No side to side ***-shaking dance like stock mounts.
When I pulled my motor mounts off, they were falling apart. There were small chunks laying on the floor once I got them out of the subframe and off the bottom of the motor (for some reason we couldn't get the flywheel to clear the bell housing and raised the motor up just enough to get a breaker bar in and detach the mounts for more play). When I checked them out, they were soaked in oil and grime. The subframe pockets also had a good amount of gritty material- most likely dirt and sand combined with oil that had leaked down the back of the motor. This probably served as an abrasive compound being packed around the mounts while the motor vibrated. I have a solid torque brace installed on the car as well- probably the only reason the motor didn't cause complete body roll when starting.
It is possible to install new motor mounts after the engine is back in the car, however, you will need to use an engine crane to lift the block out of its seat in the subframe. Depending on how much room that leaves between the subrame and motor mount arms, you may need to unbolt and support the transmission with a jack. With the transmission out, you will not have a problem. Motor mounts are secured with 3 bolts/mount to the bottom of the engine and a single bolt on each mount bushing goes through and bolts into a seat in the subframe. Its pretty simple, but to swap them when the motor is still in the car requires some play with the rest of the engine bay. Intercooler pipes and the coolant system will most likely need to be disconnected.
When I pulled my motor mounts off, they were falling apart. There were small chunks laying on the floor once I got them out of the subframe and off the bottom of the motor (for some reason we couldn't get the flywheel to clear the bell housing and raised the motor up just enough to get a breaker bar in and detach the mounts for more play). When I checked them out, they were soaked in oil and grime. The subframe pockets also had a good amount of gritty material- most likely dirt and sand combined with oil that had leaked down the back of the motor. This probably served as an abrasive compound being packed around the mounts while the motor vibrated. I have a solid torque brace installed on the car as well- probably the only reason the motor didn't cause complete body roll when starting.
It is possible to install new motor mounts after the engine is back in the car, however, you will need to use an engine crane to lift the block out of its seat in the subframe. Depending on how much room that leaves between the subrame and motor mount arms, you may need to unbolt and support the transmission with a jack. With the transmission out, you will not have a problem. Motor mounts are secured with 3 bolts/mount to the bottom of the engine and a single bolt on each mount bushing goes through and bolts into a seat in the subframe. Its pretty simple, but to swap them when the motor is still in the car requires some play with the rest of the engine bay. Intercooler pipes and the coolant system will most likely need to be disconnected.
#16
DragonFly
iTrader: (2)
Originally posted by volley1
I am going to just make my own. There is a thread on how to do it with 3" urethane from Mcmaster.com. Damian did it for like 70 bucks.
I am going to just make my own. There is a thread on how to do it with 3" urethane from Mcmaster.com. Damian did it for like 70 bucks.
this thread has all the info:
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=motor+mounts
#18
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Originally posted by BoOsTin FD
What are the signs of bad motor mounts? I got torque brace as well, so i can't shift the engine, but i'm too lazy to lift the car high enough to actually visualy inspect them.
Amel
What are the signs of bad motor mounts? I got torque brace as well, so i can't shift the engine, but i'm too lazy to lift the car high enough to actually visualy inspect them.
Amel
#21
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Originally posted by V8KILLR
Anybody run these solid aluminum motor mounts on the street? What is your opinion on these?
Thanks, Matt
Anybody run these solid aluminum motor mounts on the street? What is your opinion on these?
Thanks, Matt