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When installing a Aftermarket BOV Can I remove the Charge Relief Valve?

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Old 12-24-06, 07:06 PM
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When installing a Aftermarket BOV Can I remove the Charge Relief Valve?

Pretty much what the title says. Just bought a Greddy BOV and i know i remove the the stock BOV but do i remove the Charge Relief valve as well or do i leave that. And yes im running sequential so do i need to leave it on or can i actually ditch it?
Old 12-24-06, 07:08 PM
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You can remove it if you want your sequential system to stop functioning.....
Old 12-24-06, 07:33 PM
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hi,
do not remove the charge relief valve. It acts differently than the main blow-off valve as it releases pre-spool air charge to the secondary turbo. If you do remove it the second turbo will not spool up and come on-line. However, I think i have read somewhere that people have replaced the charge relief with an aftermarket BOV.

Merry Christmas
Old 12-24-06, 11:02 PM
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Thanks.
Old 12-25-06, 03:23 AM
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Exclamation

What a load of ******* bull **** !!!

have ANY OF YOU DONE THIS???

I have no valves on my SP for the last 10 000km and NO ONE can pick it, infact people say its the smoothest FD they have ever been in !

No valves are necessary for the sequential operation, you wont notice any difference at all in any condition ! you will get the added benifit of not loosing any boost pressure and you will make more power and have great reponce due to not dumping any of the air during a shift.
Old 12-25-06, 05:01 AM
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING
What a load of ******* bull **** !!!

have ANY OF YOU DONE THIS???

I have no valves on my SP for the last 10 000km and NO ONE can pick it, infact people say its the smoothest FD they have ever been in !

No valves are necessary for the sequential operation, you wont notice any difference at all in any condition ! you will get the added benifit of not loosing any boost pressure and you will make more power and have great reponce due to not dumping any of the air during a shift.

UM, does BLow back means anything to you.. another words if you dont dump that air its going to surge back to the turbine.. which is NOT GOOD. so either keep ur stock valve or replace it with an after market.. ohhh and Greddy BOV not so good .. they tend to leak @ high pressures.
Old 12-25-06, 07:25 AM
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING
What a load of ******* bull **** !!!

have ANY OF YOU DONE THIS???

I have no valves on my SP for the last 10 000km and NO ONE can pick it, infact people say its the smoothest FD they have ever been in !

No valves are necessary for the sequential operation, you wont notice any difference at all in any condition ! you will get the added benifit of not loosing any boost pressure and you will make more power and have great reponce due to not dumping any of the air during a shift.
Can you detail exactly how yours is different from the stock setup?

Dave
Old 12-25-06, 10:25 AM
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You can run without the CRV and BOV. Most turbo charged race cars do not use them. However, they also don't care about longevity. The valves are designed to increase longevity of the turbos. Race teams don't exclude them for performance reasons, but for reliability reasons. Can you imagine them trying to track down a stuck CRV in the middle of a race?

There is no reason to remove them on a street driven car unless you just want to shorten the lifespan of the turbos. No, that doesn't mean they are going to fail in 50 miles, but it will reduce the life span of them to some extent.
Old 12-25-06, 01:05 PM
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were can I find info on removing the CRV & Bov to intall tial BOVs? I am running twins.
Old 12-26-06, 09:59 AM
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bump
Old 12-26-06, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by def3
were can I find info on removing the CRV & Bov to intall tial BOVs? I am running twins.
What instructions do you need? The valves have two connection sources. You just relocate those two to the same two connections on your aftermarket valves. However, you'll have to figure out on your own mounting locations for your aftermarket valves.
Old 12-26-06, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RICE RACING
What a load of ******* bull **** !!!
.......I have no valves on my SP for the last 10 000km.....
So, if Mahjik is right (and I suspect he is) then 6k miles isn't really giving it much of a test in terms of turbo longevity.
Old 12-26-06, 01:52 PM
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Originally Posted by crxturboh22
UM, does BLow back means anything to you.. another words if you dont dump that air its going to surge back to the turbine.. which is NOT GOOD. so either keep ur stock valve or replace it with an after market.. ohhh and Greddy BOV not so good .. they tend to leak @ high pressures.
compressor...not turbine...
Old 12-26-06, 06:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mahjik
What instructions do you need? The valves have two connection sources. You just relocate those two to the same two connections on your aftermarket valves. However, you'll have to figure out on your own mounting locations for your aftermarket valves.

So with the Greddy elbow I can install a tial bov there and remove the stock BOV? The replacement of the CRV would I place that BOV?

Thanks for your help.
Old 12-26-06, 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by def3
........The replacement of the CRV would I replace that with BOV?......
Yes.
Old 12-26-06, 09:50 PM
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So would the air bypass valve be the stock BOV?If so were do I plump the air line to if I move the new BOV to the Greddy elbow?

With the CRV how is that conected to the turbo? When does this releive presure? would I place the 2nd BOV in the same place or were would I place it at?

Sorry for leading the thread in other direction. Looking over a repair manual and would like all the help I can get.

Thanks,
Old 12-26-06, 11:27 PM
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Originally Posted by def3
So would the air bypass valve be the stock BOV?If so were do I plump the air line to if I move the new BOV to the Greddy elbow?

With the CRV how is that conected to the turbo? When does this releive presure? would I place the 2nd BOV in the same place or were would I place it at?

Sorry for leading the thread in other direction. Looking over a repair manual and would like all the help I can get.

Thanks,
If you don't want use the same port the ABV or factory BOV uses then plug it and use the extra vacuum port on the UIM. Swaping out the CRV with an aftermarket BOV you will have to use the same port as it hooks to a control solenoid and is open till 4500 rpm.
Old 12-26-06, 11:46 PM
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Does anyone have pics of the stock ABV and how it is conected? I have yet to look at this in the car. I am just looking in a book for now. I would like to see before and after pics if possible.

Thanks
Old 12-27-06, 04:38 PM
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The stock installation can be seen at p. F-77 in the FSM. Item "5" is the ABV.
Old 12-27-06, 09:12 PM
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I see were it is at on the book. ABV. I also see were the CRV is at in the book. When replaced the ABV do I block off were the hose goes to on the car or do I just get a hose to fit from the air box and go to were it connects?

As far as the CRV I would just have to have a pipe made with a flange to place an after market BOV.

I have yet looked under the hood of my car to locate these iteams. so bear with me please.

Thanks for your help
Old 12-28-06, 12:20 PM
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The stock ABV (BOV) is supplied off of a nipple on the y-pipe. If you are installing an aftermarket BOV to the IC piping then you will need to block-off the nipple on the y-pipe with a large rubber cap. You will probably need to secure it with a hose clamp. The vacuum source can be the same hose as supplies the stock ABV. You may need a longer hose depending on where you plant the aftermarket BOV.

As for the CRV, you're on your own. It will probably need to remain in the stock location as it is controlled by a solenoid and I doubt you want to entirely revamp the back half of the y-pipe.
Old 12-28-06, 08:01 PM
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With the CRV I am going to place the BOV in the stock location.

As far as replacing the ABV I will be move the BOV to the Greddy elbow just off the throttle body.

Thanks for your help.
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