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Whats next after these Performance Mods?

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Old 04-23-02, 10:23 AM
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Whats next after these Performance Mods?

I Kinda got a vague question...

What would you do for performance after the mods listed:

Catback exhaust..
Downpipe..
Standard mount Intercooler
Cold air intake..
ECU upgrade..

Whats next to increase performance that wn't cost a Arm and a leg..

New single turbo - to much
Mid pipe?? - might cause boost creep and blow your engine.
Port and polish- how much$$ do you have to upgrade your upgrades for it??

Upgrade your upgrade??

Or would you leave it at athat and start working on cosmetics?

and if you did.. What would you do besides the RIMS and Rear wing??

Reason I ask is because basically this is where I am at..
Old 04-23-02, 10:35 AM
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Some options:
upgrade to ACT clutch and lightweight flywheel
upgrade fuel pump/injectors
suspension mods
Old 04-23-02, 10:38 AM
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I would say that you probably would want to work on the fuel delivery, that way you could adjust the fuel curve and the boost a little.
Old 04-23-02, 11:26 AM
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If you are looking to increase performance only, you can look into:

Hi-Flo cat
Efini Y-Pipe
Iginition system like HKS Twin Power
Pulleys
Clutch & Flywheel

Depending on what ECU are/will be using, upgrading the fuel system may be a PITA. The reprogrammed ECU's like Pettit and M2 will not work for upgrading your injectors.

It really depends on what kind of performance you are looking for out of your car. You want to keep the car reliable, so you might want to look into a replacement radiator like the Fluidyne.

Also, you didn't list any gauges. Do you have gauges like a boost gauge, an Air/Fuel or an EGT gauge?

If I were in your shoes, I would look to upgrade the suspension (as long as you already have gauges... if not gauges first).
Old 04-23-02, 12:08 PM
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BRAKES!!!!! we all know that the stock ones are good, but you will start needing better. get stainless steel brake lines, motul 600 brake fluid, hawk pads, while resurfacing the rotors. if they are bad just get new blanks. you need to be able to stop if you can go fast. the most impressive time slip should not be 0-60, it should be 0-100-0.
kris
oh yeah, and fuel upgrades. injectors and fuel pump
Old 04-23-02, 02:28 PM
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definitely clutch and flywheel...what good is extra power if you can't get it to the wheels?
Old 04-23-02, 03:16 PM
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Sean, If I were you after you get your ECU situation straightened out. I would go with the flywheel/clutch. Then on to the main pulley.Thats if your looking for more HP. But none of its going to be cheap persay.But considering you have so many miles on your car ..about 118k if im remembering correctly.You should think about a reman or rebuild with 3mm apex seals and a street port.Your engine is going to go eventually.Better to save and plan now then after it's blown.

Dave.
Old 04-24-02, 09:58 AM
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fix what's broke first

Originally posted by The Stranger
...But considering you have so many miles on your car ..about 118k if im remembering correctly...
With a high miles car why not just upgrade stuff as things break or wear out? That's what I've done for the most part (OK, so my IC did not REALLY wear out ) At that many miles, your suspension must be shot. I pretty much replaced the whole thing even before I did most of my engine mods. Bushings, shocks, and springs all wear over time and I think you can reasonably assume they are past their "drink/eat by date" when the odometer gets that 6th digit. You will be amazed what a difference it makes in the look and feel of the car. (I also did the toe links, trailing arms and sway bars along with the bushings, shocks, springs and f/r sway bars.) This is a lot of cash so you may want to start with the most worn stuff first - probably the bushings.

Other than that, just keep upgrading parts as they wear out. You'll actually look forward to things breaking! My tires are worn - so yesterday I "upgraded" to a set of Toyo RA1 competition tires. [from a set of Yokohama A032 competition tires ]

Scott

Last edited by Coulthard Fan; 04-24-02 at 10:02 AM.
Old 04-24-02, 11:03 AM
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Re: fix what's broke first

Originally posted by Coulthard Fan


With a high miles car why not just upgrade stuff as things break or wear out? That's what I've done for the most part (OK, so my IC did not REALLY wear out ) At that many miles, your suspension must be shot. I pretty much replaced the whole thing even before I did most of my engine mods. Bushings, shocks, and springs all wear over time and I think you can reasonably assume they are past their "drink/eat by date" when the odometer gets that 6th digit. You will be amazed what a difference it makes in the look and feel of the car. (I also did the toe links, trailing arms and sway bars along with the bushings, shocks, springs and f/r sway bars.) This is a lot of cash so you may want to start with the most worn stuff first - probably the bushings.

Other than that, just keep upgrading parts as they wear out. You'll actually look forward to things breaking! My tires are worn - so yesterday I "upgraded" to a set of Toyo RA1 competition tires. [from a set of Yokohama A032 competition tires ]

Scott
Where did you get the bushings at? I need to get some for the rear but haven't really started looking. Any help would be great.
Old 04-24-02, 01:00 PM
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Re: Re: fix what's broke first

Originally posted by ttpowerd
Where did you get the bushings at? I need to get some for the rear but haven't really started looking. Any help would be great.
As far as I know, you have 3 choices of bushings right now: stock, Mazda competition, or Unobtanium. You can get stock rubber bushings at the usual sources, Mazda competion rubber bushings (40% stiffer than stock) are available from Mazda Motorsports
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...?storeId=10001 and Jim Labreck's Unobtainium bushings are available from N-Tech Engineering. http://www.n-tech.net/index.cfm?fuseaction=groupbuys

As far as price, I think Jim's are the cheapest, then Mazda competition's, then stock. (Maybe you could find the stock ones somewhere cheaper than Mazda Competition's.)

Scott
p.s. My aftermarket swaybars came with polyurethane bushings. The aftermarket trailing arms and toe links also replace some of the rear bushings/joints which may be worn.
Old 04-24-02, 01:17 PM
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Strut tower bar, sway bars, upgrade your intake pipes with stainless steel ones. Upgrade injectors, repalce radiator for a larger one.
Old 04-24-02, 01:37 PM
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Originally posted by RyanREX
upgrade your intake pipes with stainless steel ones.
y? You get minimal hp increase so all they are good for is looks. Go with clutch, flywheel, suspension, and fuel pump.
Old 04-24-02, 01:38 PM
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Re: Re: Re: fix what's broke first

Originally posted by Coulthard Fan


As far as I know, you have 3 choices of bushings right now: stock, Mazda competition, or Unobtanium. You can get stock rubber bushings at the usual sources, Mazda competion rubber bushings (40% stiffer than stock) are available from Mazda Motorsports
http://www.mazdamotorsports.com/weba...?storeId=10001 and Jim Labreck's Unobtainium bushings are available from N-Tech Engineering. http://www.n-tech.net/index.cfm?fuseaction=groupbuys

As far as price, I think Jim's are the cheapest, then Mazda competition's, then stock. (Maybe you could find the stock ones somewhere cheaper than Mazda Competition's.)

Scott
p.s. My aftermarket swaybars came with polyurethane bushings. The aftermarket trailing arms and toe links also replace some of the rear bushings/joints which may be worn.
Thanks for the site. Now to save $600
Old 04-24-02, 03:59 PM
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Hmmm

Thanks everyone for your responses...

Yea I do have high miles on car..
I going on 123K miles now.

Ok this is a list of all the stuff I did to my baby..

M2 street/Race clutch and assembly with Stock Flywheel.
Greedy SMIC
Silicone tie wraped Vacuum Hoses - Done by Dave N Ryan.
M2 Pulleys (not the main ones) not sure but for waterpump and something else. I forget.
Bonez Stainless Steel Downpipe.
HKS Super flow Intake.
HKS Catback Superdragger.
M2 Boost gauge - Installed by Ryan n Dan
19x8 1/2 front Mekrah Rims
19x9 1/2 rear Mekrah Rims
Race/Street Brake pads bought from RX7.com
Last but not least, Momo carbonfiber shift ****.

I realize I need to get ECU upgrade.
Tried PF purple but for some reason wil not take off the FUEL CUT OFF.
Thinking of goign with M2 Stage3 or Pettite Unlimited.
Waiting for a good deal on ECU. but worried of buying ECU upgrade used.. Is it a good idea?? or should I just buy NEW.. BUT...
Later on down the road. If I decide to get larger injectors and fuel pump and etc.. M2 nor Pettite will work. So should I get somethign else?

Yea I know my cars suspension is riding rough..
but I can LIVE with it.. = ) I am sure I need new bushings. BUT how do you know if you need new Arms and etc?? how do they go bad???
Planning on maybe getting springs to lower my car. While I am at it get shocks right???

I am sure I am not alone..BUT I don't have a All this $$$$$ to spend on my RX. which i would like to do..
So I guess I am looking for bang for the bucks.

Reason I am so HOT about performance is because,
Recently got in a race with new Z28 and it crept away from me slowly. I didint get smoked.. I figure if I had a ECU upgrade. I would of got IT..
After all i did so far, I was content, and figure i start doing cosmetic stuff to my car. but NOW I am HOT..
I need Bang for the BUCKS HP. can't stand losing to American Car..
Old 04-24-02, 06:18 PM
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Re: Hmmm

Originally posted by WhiteRXseven
...I need Bang for the BUCKS HP. can't stand losing to American Car..
Oh, you are talking straight line street racing. You said performance, so that's why I went off track here, no pun intended. Not that I'm encouraging you to street race but besides an ECU (which should be obvious for those mods unless you are keeping the boost way low), how about some sticky tires? They are where you either put the power to the road - or don't put the power to the road. Unfortunately, I don't know of any good tires in that 19" size that are good for traction and can still be run on the street. With a set of competition tires, even road racing tires, you will likely hook up better than the Z28 who is using the Goodyear crap his car came with. I got a lot less wheelspin on the street with my road race oriented Yokohama A032R's than I did with my street oriented Bridgestone RE71's.

Sounds like you HAVE to bite the bullet and get an ECU. At least then you can safely raise the boost and do the ultimate bang-for-the-buck mod, a midpipe. If you aren't spinning the tires already you just aren't making enough power. On the RE71's I used to spin like crazy. Last time I drove with them on the car I spun them when the 2nd turbo kicked in... in third gear.

Scott
Old 04-25-02, 09:26 AM
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You spin wheels when 2nd turbo comes online in 3rd
gear?? Wow. If my car did that I think it would be
better than an orgasm.. haha..

Yea I deffinately gotta get a ECU, stil not sure what to get. I gonna go to the ECU forums and do some more reading before I take the plunge..

Yea MIDPIPE is a deffinately a bang for the Bucks.
And its cheaper than a HI FLo Cat..
my only concern is BOOST creeping and
Blowing the MOTOR..

Have a buddy with midpipe and ecu and still
had boost spike and blew the engine...

As far as tires go.. my Pzeros feel great..
Not to sure how they compare to other tires
but they grip the road pretty well..
NOt sure about now, but when I first got my RIms
Pirelli was the only company to make 19" tires
or larger.
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