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Yeah, I asked IRPerformance first if it can be done and he told me he have many past clients in the same spot as me with everything stock and instead of buying new oem turbos they upgrade to a more reliable bnrs. I imagine it will be a really safe tune and not pushing the limits of 10psi bnr since I have everything else stock but I was concern if I should worry on how hot my air intake temp may get specially because I live in Panama (Central America) and it gets really hot here and have poor gas quality.
Without an ECU? Seems very risky but I will admit, I have never seen any data to contradict other than knowing that BNR's have a higher CFM than stockers.
Originally Posted by IRPerformance
Personally I do not recommend getting on boost if intake temps are 50C or higher. The stock sensor is insanely slow to respond so I recommend everyone get the fast acting Triumph sensor, upgrade the intercooler, and ideally add meth injection if pushing more than a bar on pump gas.
with an ECU, sorry if I miss that, I'm getting the bnr and a modular adaptronic or haltech, and wanted to know how safe it can be using stock intercooler with 10psi but I guess I need to have an eye at the temps, maybe even after 1 pull my intake temps will be way higher than 50C, since I live in Panama Central america and the ambient temp here is at 35C
Hey guys, my car is with stock twins with an adadptronic ECU and Greddy filters and full exahust and tune. I think I have the pfs SMIC don't really know it's a stock mount ic with metal ducting. Anyway, my car also has a MS replica vented hood.
When I start driving the car after cold the IAT is really close to the ambient temp. However it just rises and rises to the point where it's between 45-55 C with an ambient temp of around 15-20 C (that's between 59 and 68 F).
Is this normal? Is it the case that my sensor gets heatsoaked or I need a new IC?
Hey guys, my car is with stock twins with an adadptronic ECU and Greddy filters and full exahust and tune. I think I have the pfs SMIC don't really know it's a stock mount ic with metal ducting. Anyway, my car also has a MS replica vented hood.
When I start driving the car after cold the IAT is really close to the ambient temp. However it just rises and rises to the point where it's between 45-55 C with an ambient temp of around 15-20 C (that's between 59 and 68 F).
Is this normal? Is it the case that my sensor gets heatsoaked or I need a new IC?
My intake temp is always around ambient until I get on boost. Stock IC with modified ducting. I don't get to 55C until I've done a few full boost runs.
Where is your IAT sensor? If it's still on the upper intake still it will heat soak and give an inaccurate reading. You can replace it with a triumph motorcycle sensor placed in the throttle body elbow.
Hey guys, my car is with stock twins with an adadptronic ECU and Greddy filters and full exahust and tune. I think I have the pfs SMIC don't really know it's a stock mount ic with metal ducting. Anyway, my car also has a MS replica vented hood.
When I start driving the car after cold the IAT is really close to the ambient temp. However it just rises and rises to the point where it's between 45-55 C with an ambient temp of around 15-20 C (that's between 59 and 68 F).
Is this normal? Is it the case that my sensor gets heatsoaked or I need a new IC?
If you think that's bad, you should see how much the stock unit suffers from heat soak (65-75C on a warm day). But them be the breaks when using a SMIC, now you know why people opt for a Vmount or a FMIC.
I used to have a PFS SMIC and my intake temps were in the mid 40'sC on a 75F (25C) day. But if I WOT'd then my temps would quickly rise to the low 50's and it would hover there for a while only to come back down ever so slowly. Now are your intake temps normal? I know that you said that yours is at around 45-55C but does that include WOT runs? if so that is in the normal range (a little higher than me though) but if you are just cruising and are reaching 55C then your IC is not doing it's job.
I think I have the pfs SMIC don't really know it's a stock mount ic with metal ducting
The PFS unit is pretty easy to identify and it comes with a fiberglass duct. But maybe someone fabbed a metal one in it's place. So if you have a PFS unit and are reaching 55C at cruise (not after WOT) on a 70F day, the duct could be the problem. Here is a pic of the PFS unit (with duct and PFS intake) so you can identify:
Some people strip off the paint on the sides, but still no other other IC looks like the PFS unit.
Edit-
I found a pic of the entire PFS intake/SMIC combo:
If you think that's bad, you should see how much the stock unit suffers from heat soak (65-75C on a warm day). But them be the breaks when using a SMIC, now you know why people opt for a Vmount or a FMIC.
I used to have a PFS SMIC and my intake temps were in the mid 40'sC on a 75F (25C) day. But if I WOT'd then my temps would quickly rise to the low 50's and it would hover there for a while only to come back down ever so slowly. Now are your intake temps normal? I know that you said that yours is at around 45-55C but does that include WOT runs? if so that is in the normal range (a little higher than me though) but if you are just cruising and are reaching 55C then your IC is not doing it's job.
Much of that is due to the stock ducting and intake routing. Not saying the stock IC can't be improved on, but the ducting is really low hanging fruit in this situation. I've found evidence that the stock intake duct actually pulls hot engine bay air backwards and across the IC (not to mention into the intake) until you reach moderate speeds. Stock duct = garbage unless modified.
If I do some pulls it quickly gets to around 50-55 and stays between that. it will only cool down to mid 40s if I'd be cruising at high speeds for a while. It used to be just a little bit colder than that but we're getting close to
summer here in Greece.
My IAT sensor is stock in the stock position. I thought about the heatsoaked sensor but when i turned the car off tonight my temp was 58 and I touched the IC and it seemed like 58 to me. Lol.
A friend has a custom FMIC I think I'm gonna buy it and be done with it. I'd love a v mount but I already have a greddy radiator in the stock position and that works really great.
If I do some pulls it quickly gets to around 50-55 and stays between that. it will only cool down to mid 40s if I'd be cruising at high speeds for a while. It used to be just a little bit colder than that but we're getting close to summer here in Greece.
Ok well then your intake temps are in the normal range.
A friend has a custom FMIC I think I'm gonna buy it and be done with it. I'd love a v mount but I already have a greddy radiator in the stock position and that works really great.
Just an FYI- I am not a fan of FMICs as they block the radiator. Sure you can duct air into the rad but nothing beats direct fresh air.
The slow indicated iat recovery might just be a result of the relatively slow stock sensor in the stock location. In other words, your recovery is probably quicker than you think.
Some guys like them, but I never considered a FMIC either. In addition to interfering with air flow to the radiator they usually require cutting and a lot more plumbing along with relocating. They also compromising crash worthiness. Do you have slow animals in Greece?
PFS is a decent unit for mildly modded car and it has a good duct and with a decent intake that’s easily improved.
My car used to be a 600hp GT42 stock port 10 sec drag car before it blew the motor and it had a huge FMIC on the 99 bumper so not a lot of cutting there.
I think I'm gonna try it for a while and if it's sacrificing water temps (my water temps don't go beyond 88c under any conditions) then I'll switch to vmount.
My mechanic says we might be able to leave the greddy radiator as is. Install the IC as vmount and do metal ducting for air into the radiator.
I was doing pulls from 2nd to 4th gear last night and I remember my car was a lot faster and then I saw the IAT and it was at 58c
Last edited by Andreas Avgeris; 04-05-18 at 06:01 AM.
Not a PFS. Kind of looks like an ARC or maybe Blitz. Not much bigger than stock. Can’t tell what the deal is with the duct. Sort of looks like a modded stocker.
If I do some pulls it quickly gets to around 50-55 and stays between that. it will only cool down to mid 40s if I'd be cruising at high speeds for a while. It used to be just a little bit colder than that but we're getting close to
summer here in Greece.
My IAT sensor is stock in the stock position. I thought about the heatsoaked sensor but when i turned the car off tonight my temp was 58 and I touched the IC and it seemed like 58 to me. Lol.
A friend has a custom FMIC I think I'm gonna buy it and be done with it. I'd love a v mount but I already have a greddy radiator in the stock position and that works really great.
You don't know what your actual intake temp is, but it "feels" right...
You are leaving your stock intake sensor in the UIM where it will heat-soak and certainly read inaccurate/high intake temps. This will cause the ECU to inject less fuel because of the lower air density.
Meanwhile you're going to add a FMIC, which will give you a cold dense intake charge while the ECU thinks it is getting thin hot air.
Doesn't that sound dangerous? I think you should sort your sensor out before adding more cooling. At least upgrade the sensor/location at the same time.
Ever since I put in a vmount, my temps from the turbo discharge to intake elbow reduce around 60 degrees Fahrenheit. So I drove a couple weeks ago with outside temps around 60 degrees and my turbo outlet would be around 130 during a track event and my elbow temps were around 70. Vmount has changed the game. My front mount never let my ac get cold either.
05-30-17, 12:33 PM
