WhiteRXseven

I know the lower the temperature the better.
But what would be the ideal intake temperature be?
or is there such a thing?? Just colder the better??

With my PFC after warm up. on Not so hot days are
40 - 48 degree celcious. And on HOT summer days..
Temps are like 49-60 degree celcius.. Thats with a
Greedy SMIC.

out of curiousity, anyone know the intake temps with
stock IC????

thanks

DavidDeco

I was doing on a seach on this trhe other night and quickly found some threads on this. Hate to be cliche but try the SEARCH.

Basically what I found was that at best people got 10-12 deg C above the ambient temp. Air Dams, Scooped hoods, ducting, etc seemed to help this.

Will post when I find out now that I have my PFC . Scoot hood not yet installed so I'll have some before and after comparisons too.

Flybye

I hate to burst your bubble, but I'm getting the same temps with my stock IC. The 40 or so C with the outside temps around 70-80F and the 40-60C temps with the outside air at around 90F.

Are these your hwy temps or sitting in and moving around traffic temps? Even on the HOT days down here, my hwy temps has been in the mid 40s C.

SPOautos

You really cant go buy what the PFC is telling you cause the stock sensor is not accurate with it being mounted in the uim. It gets heat soaked and when you start moving(like getting onto the highway) your IC is cooling the air but the sensor wont change due to being heat soaked.

Me and a few other people I've seen are moving it to the IC pipes...maybe the elbow but havent decided for sure.

Anyway, they are all going to be fairly close regaurdless of IC because your reading the temp of the sensor and not the air.

STEPHEN

grampa

While researching the use of water injection I read somewhere that 42C is the ideal air temp for intake air. It may have been on the aquamist site.

jspecracer7

On an average, my air intake temps stay between 40 and 47 celsius...with continuous runs from 1st thru 4th gear. My WATER temp rises like a ***** *****, but my intake temps NEVER get higher than that.

When I had my old stock mount(larger than the Greddy SMIC), my air intake temps would get into the 80's sometimes!

rotorbrain

i would have to say that placing the sensor on the throttle body elbow would be the best place for it. you would want the reading right before it is ingested into the engine, right? that is the closest place that i could think of. ill be moving mine to that location once i get the greddy elbow.

paul

DavidDeco

My air temps rise in step (almost) with my water and oil temps according to my datalogging. My sensor is in the Elbow.

I just installed the dual oil coolers as my oil temps were way high and have not been able to monitor or datalog due to blowing a turbo. I'm hoping my intake temp drops as well as the Oil temp. I am typically in the 60's for intake temp with the Pettit Coolcharge 3 SMIC. It's pretty damn big so I was expecting lower.

kuroi FD

Nobody really answered the question? Is there a ideal intake temp? Lower the better is assumed but is there too low?

rynberg

No, in "real world" situations, there is no such thing as the air intake temp being too low. (Assuming the ecu isn't out of correction factor range, which would be doubtful for 99.99999% of FD owners.)

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

I don't think you can go too low. The cooler the better. More power and less chance of detonation. During the summer I stay out of hard boosting when my intake temps exceed 50C on the Power FC, but that's just me. I know guys who boost hard all the time regardless of intake temps, but then again, most have replaced a motor or two. How about everyone else? What's your limit for intake temps before you back off on boosting above 12 psi??

dubulup

I've read, 40C is ideal...not saying that is the best, but that is what Mazda used for tuning the stock ECU.

I'm with rynberg, lower the better...just make sure you have fuel corrections so you don't run lean.

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

My Blitz FMIC with extra ducting and Mazdaspeed replica hood has the air temp sensor mounted in the outlet duct. Some of the plastic surrounding the sensor tip has been cut away to allow a faster response to temperature changes. My air temps while cruising are about 3 degrees above ambient. Going from 0 - 140 mph, it will rise to about 10-15 degrees over ambient.

I live in Houston and never seen an on boost air temp over 45C/113F.

FLA94FD

Just above the point of freezing the fuel would be ideal.

SkulkR1

iTrader: (1)

Chuck,

Could you elaborate on cutting some of the plastic from the sensor, sounds like a good idea. I would like to do that but would be weary of ruining the sensor. How do you do it?

Julian

iTrader: (14)

The cooler the air, the denser the charge and thus more oxygen per unit ... colder is better until ecu /fuel system can add no more fuel to keep A/F correct. Cold air is free turbo or supercharging

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

The sensor is nothing more than a small thermistor mounted in the end of the plastic rod of the sensor. A thermistor is a resistor that changes resistance due to a temperature change. They are normally coated with a ceramic shell. I slowly sanded away around the tip end and sides until the cover of the thermistor was exposed. It's own protective cover is a different color.

This reduces the insullation affect on the sensor.

Upgrayedd

iTrader: (1)

I have to disagree with you on that. When driving, my air temp on the PFC drops several degrees and will drop more the higher my cruising speed becomes. Usually stays between 30 and 45 Celsius around here on the freeway depending on the day... Cold nights I can get it down to 23 on the freeway...

cewrx7r1

iTrader: (2)

You are not totally comprehending what was written. He did not say that it was always wrong, but that due to heat soak, it would be initially slow to change and thus would be wrong for a while. This is true and has been documented long time ago. That is why the informed who have PFCs have moved theirs to the IC outlet or the throttle body elbow. But doing this also requires changing some of the AIR TEMP maps which isn't a big deal if you have the DL.

On the COSMO turbo 13B, Mazda placed it in the throttle body elbow, why they fucked it up for the FD, only those idiots know why!

RCCAZ 1

iTrader: (10)

Could someone post a quick pic of the position on the Greddy elbow where they've relocated their sensor?

jonahau

Reviviiiiing this thread xD I was searching for what will be "too hot" for the intake air temp. to be concern and can't find anything, just this similar thread but they didn't mention about how hot will be too hot for the car.

my concern is because my stock turbos are blown (leaking oil) so I plan to replace them with a BNR Stage3 twins and get a Adaptronic Modular ECU or Haltech, the car is mainly stock except for a downpipe and catback (performance wise).

I will be just boosting 10psi like stock because of the lag of supporting mods, but my concern is if the small oem intercooler will get too hot with the power increase. (I will not track or race the car, maybe just some highway pull for fun and also its not my daily) eventually I will get Vmount.

Rocketeerbandit

iTrader: (3)

Be careful boosting 10lbs on the bnrs. They are pushing out more air and your stock fuel system along with the intercooler won't keep up with the demand. They are more efficient. Do this quickly so you don't detonate.

jonahau

Yeah, I asked IRPerformance first if it can be done and he told me he have many past clients in the same spot as me with everything stock and instead of buying new oem turbos they upgrade to a more reliable bnrs. I imagine it will be a really safe tune and not pushing the limits of 10psi bnr since I have everything else stock but I was concern if I should worry on how hot my air intake temp may get specially because I live in Panama (Central America) and it gets really hot here and have poor gas quality.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Personally I do not recommend getting on boost if intake temps are 50C or higher. The stock sensor is insanely slow to respond so I recommend everyone get the fast acting Triumph sensor, upgrade the intercooler, and ideally add meth injection if pushing more than a bar on pump gas.