lopedl

iTrader: (1)

I was wondering if the best way to clean out carbon in the rotor housing is to use transmission fluid. I've heard of people using engine degreaser and other stuff.

I wanted to know if it is safe.

And Also do you pour it in one plug hole at a time while the other 3 are still in, then crank the fluid out, then put the plug back in, remove another plug and do the same until your done. Or exactly what are the steps .

TwinTriangles

Its better to do it with the engine out and then squirt a lil ATF in the exhaust ports and on the apex seals then you can just turn it around by hand and work it in, Ive heard of people doing this and getting all the build up off aroung the apex seals and make them allot more springy and bring back better compression

lopedl

iTrader: (1)

Well I mean while the engine is in the car.

TwinTriangles

I dunno if thats a good idea...? Sea-Foam...? <---dont know if thats a good idea either...

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

The best and safest way is to get the car on the highway and floor it. You'll see a nice cloud of dust behind you as it kicks out the carbon. If you don't see the cloud, you didn't have much carbon buildup.

RonKMiller

Yep, an "Italian" tuneup.

jspecracer7

If you've ever taken apart an engine, then you'll see that there is little to no carbon build up on the rotor housings. The carbon builds up on the Rotors. If you dislodge too much carbon build up...you run the chance of wedging big pieces of carbon between the rotor and the rotor housing...probably cracking an apex seal.

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

based on this respones what is the turning point in RPM's between building up carbon and clearing it out? This is not a smart *** response it is as serious question.

jspecracer7

redline

cloud9

iTrader: (4)

haha ok, anybody else?

volley1

So are we saying the water trick through a vacuum port is a bad idea? I was thinking about doing this soon too.

odditysmurf

I have heard of people putting auto tranny fluid into the rotor housings to clean them up. I have seen this done with a 13b in an '85gsl-se. i dont know if youd get the same results with the FD or not. But what we did was just cranked the motor around by hand and poured a little auto-trans fluid into each chamber on both rotors and let it sit over night. we bought 2 sets of new plugs cause you are going to foul out at least one set. the next morning we called the fire department and base security to let them know we were gunna be making alot of smoke, then we let it rip, it blew a *** load of white smoke for a bit. Once it was done doing so we changed out the plugs and the motor felt like it had new life in it. once again not sure if this is a good idea in the FD or not.

Heath

iTrader: (11)

I have done this to my fd twice now. The engine is stock with 39,000 miles. It won't hurt a thing. The easiest way I have found is to use the vacuum nipple on the upper intake manifold where you would plug in a boost gauge. I use a very small funnel and a piece of silicon hose. Attach the funnel to the hose and the hose to the nipple. Start the car and pour in the atf. The car will begin to run rough. After the engine has ingested a few ounces turn the car off. It helps if you have someone do this for you while you are pouring the atf.
Allow the car to sit over night and then start her up (Some people say the atf may foul your plugs but I have never had a problem. If you are concerned you can always remove the plugs and turn the engine over a few times to blow out the excess atf.) After the smoke dies down enough take it for a drive, gradually running it harder and harder. You certainly want to end up with a few redlines.

That's what Dave from KD rotary advised me to do. I have heard of others using a bottle of water with one end of the hose in the bottle and the other attached to the upper intake nipple. Allow the car to ingest some water while having a friend hold the throttle around 3,000-4,500 rpm's. Go ahead and aloow it to suck down a liter or so. At least I would. It should literally steam clean the inside of the engine.

Best of luck!

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

the only thing i would worry about is the atf on the rings.

there's alot of debate about that too.

Heath

iTrader: (11)

I don't feel it's an issue but it's something to consider I suppose.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

i haven't heard much talk on the 3rd gen section.

but 2nd there is more of a debate

Heath

iTrader: (11)

You can always just go the water route and stay away from the atf.

Heath

iTrader: (11)

Actually, I'll take some old o-rings and soak them in atf to see what happens. I'll let everyone know the results.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

dont' forget to add heat

here a couple links

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=ATF+oil+rings

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=ATF+oil+rings

this last one is a good one me thinks

http://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/atftrick.htm

it talks about things that i didn't think about like cats/side seals.


i have used atf on a fresh rebuild but i try to avoid it.

it's ur call what u do. I dont' think there is definitve proof either way.

poss

iTrader: (5)

Since I am currently rebuilding my engine, I still have my old oil control o-rings. I'll let a couple soak in some ATF and see if anything happens.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

dont' forget to add heat, fuel,oil, and combustion to the equation

it's more than jsut soak'n them. chemical properties change with it's state/environment.

poss

iTrader: (5)

what I got from that guy's webpage was that the damage occurs when the ATF sits in the engine for a long period of time. I have my doubts.

Sesshoumaru

iTrader: (1)

well i guess

doubts is enough for me atleast