ive heard many good things about gotham here in tx when it comes to quality rebuilds. my rotary specialist has visited their shop on occassion to talk rotaries, check out the rides, etc. i heard they are backed up to hell with work. since they're pro at what they do its understandable

 

Well, I don't want to argue just for the sake of arguing.....I think we're on the same page, if you ask anyone who we've built a motor for, we always replace all suspect parts in the name of a quality build. I will admit that the '850 dollar motor job' is not something to be commonly found.

Hanman is 100% correct too. If we just receive the motor, that definitely cuts costs down, but you have to pay the piper sometime. When we receive the car for a motor job, there are inevitably parts costs that will add up to do the job right (ie hoses, gaskets, washers, t-stat, fpr, wp etc etc).

 

Well I have not personally purchased any services from them yet. The previous owner had a handfull of things done there.

I did call them with some questions, and Steve called me back and spent 20-30 minutes just answering my noob rotary questions specific to my car and how I want to build it out. I know he must be busy so I felt like they were interested in actually hearing what I had to say and being attuned to my goals for the car.

 

The only comment I can make is don't focus exclusively on price.

Its usually the service and the ability of the shop/person to review the engine and ancillary systems as a whole that will make the difference.

I think just about all the people that posted on here are quality shops that can deliver a good motor and a reliable setup. No point getting to the pennies on price as each customer's car will have different needs and therefore a different total price.

 

Rebuilds in the US seem on average a hell of a lot cheaper than the UK. A basic and must point out decent rebuild from a reputable builder here in the UK starts from about £3000 + VAT (17.5%). Therefore your looking at £3525 for the rebuild.

Now then that equates to around $7000 just for a standard basic rebuild.

 

I've been on this forum for a long time. For the price you guys offer and the componets you guys are using, I can easily say you are offering one of the more bullet proof rebuilds out there. If I wasn't so educated in doing rotary related work myself, I would most definetly be using you guys for my rebuilds. Congrats on offering a great service to the rotary community.

 

The other thing to mention for those wanting to keep costs down, the pineapple racing heavy duty coolant o-rings are billed as reusable on multiple builds, which is a nice benefit.

 

I certainly agree with Hanman, you get what you pay for. The costs definately add up. While the engine is out do it all.

 

I must say you have one of the best sigs on the forum

 

Rich, I just asked you a simple question, there wasn't any arguing.


T-von- Thank you

 

Well, I've been known to argue with myself sometimes just for the hell of it

To answer your question, yes, I did indeed replace all the soft seals and the single apex seal. This particular case was in my personal motor. That was 5 years and 14k miles ago, I've been running my 500R setup at 15-20 psi for the past year on it

 

Overall just because an engine is opend up doesn't mean that the apex seals are simply going to self destruct when the engine is put back together. The seals go through a ton more abuse while in operation than when during assembly. The only reason to replace them is to get the original brittle 3 piece seals out. They are a ticking time bomb on boosted rotary's. If the engine was already recently rebuilt with the newer 2 peice design, there's no need to replace all the others if you blow only one. Apex seals are known to last well over 200k, sooooo if your rebuild has only 50k on it, there's no need to replace parts that are still perfectly with in spec.

 

i think its just one of those " if ya can do it do it right" wouldnt it suck if it was weakened, and you didn't know it? just replace them all and you wont have to worry about it.

 

Just to be clear, the only time I would consider reusing apex seals would be if they were very low mileage. For the vast majority of FD builds we do, they get fresh apex seals, so Banzai was right in this regard

 

I got everything needed for a full rebuild, except bearings. Plus their own designed 2piece Apex seals, solid corner seals, ect. Full viton O rings, ect.. They said because the majority of requests their rebuild kits are built to handle high power. For instance these apex seals hold 54lbs of boost on their cosmo... www.atkinsrotary.com I am confident in my purchase, and was told that this is perfect for my intentions (which may be 380ish~450rwhp to start with.)

 

Oh and as far as the best way to go, I looked at Pineapple racing, and Racing Beat. This seemed the most complete, built with performance in mind, and best bang for buck.