apex_sideway

I was supposed to pick up a FD this weekend but i'll have to wait until I get back from my Europe trip When i do pick it up i'm going to start working on it but it will be hard; i have no mechanic experience. First jobs: Y-pipe, Downpipe, Vaccum hoses, boost gauge, replace oil pan gasket, tokico shocks, and later on H&R springs .

What tools will help me work on this car better? I'm going to order a shop manual. I already have a bunch of socket wrenches with different extensions and sizes. If possible can any of you direct me to a cheap jack or would ramps be my best option? Are there any tools that have really made your life easier? Also, what's the name of that thing you lay on that has wheels and helps get under the car easier?

Thanks,
Clayton

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Not really a problem - just expect to take more time to do jobs and don't hurry or rush. There is no such thing as a stupid question (unless you didn't search ) only mistakes from poor planning and carelessness. In other words, think always before doing. I learned 90% of my mechanic-ability on this car within the last year alone. It is much better to learn to work on this car if you have a daily driver.

It's good you're asking this - I wish I had somebody's suggestion for a starter 'kit'. The best and most affordable tools for this car are not always obvious.

Do the downpipe and y-pipe together. Oil pan gasket I've never done, shocks and or springs require a good spring compressor and should be followed by an alignment - so doing them together is best.

You will need a jack and jackstands (4). Ramps alone will not cut it. Get jackstands that have a low minimum height - jacking up this car you'll notice your support points are very close to the ground. Ideally you can get the kind that have rubber flat-tops and/or the slotted blocks for supporting on the frame rail (the layered steel under the doors). I also put got a rubber flat-top for my floor jack which really helps. See some great advice here: https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...t=jacking+rail

For me, the biggest obstacle is lifting the front, and the R1 lip makes it harder yet. My jack is basically identical to the black one in the link above, and it's not long or low enough to reach the front cradle even if the car is driven up on 2x12s. I actually have to get a jackstand under one of the front corners first. Don't be like me - get a low/long jack.

On a tight budget, I would get the $100 aluminum 'race' jack for its lower clearance from Harbor Freight (lots of places sell them, I think they're basically the same) and some 4 light/short jackstands with flat rubber-padded tops. Then cut some wooden blocks for when you need to support by the rails, and some 2x12s for use as mini-ramps. You might want to mail-order them since most in-stock lifting gear isn't set up quite like this.

I strongly recommend investing in good lift equipment right away. Mistakes from improper lifting are deadly, and will damage the car. Always use rubber pads or wooden blocks to avoid scratching and marring the car. I've learned that any bare metal on the jacking rails will eventually bend them.

I use extensively:
(* means it's not a necessity for all jobs)

• 8mm, 10, 12, 14, 16, 17, 18 ratchet wrenches (dunno how I ever lived without these) $25
• 1/4", 3/8", 1/2" deep and regular sockets in 8mm-18mm with 3", 6", and 12" extensions
• I like the binder-size FSM - bought mine used here for $50.
• 3/8" drive socket wrench with pivot head ($15)
• 4-in-1 screwdriver - I use it constantly and it saves me trips to the toolbox. ($10)
• 3/8" flex head sockets and a couple screwdriver attachments for the 1/4" socket wrench*
• 100 ft-lb 1/2" drive torque wrench with 21mm deep socket (for lug nuts, etc) ($25)
• in-lb torque wrench $25*
• 18" breaker bar and 5lb. dead-blow mallet for loosening bitch bolts, a can of PB blaster ($35). This combo can break loose everything save for the flywheel nut.
• Blue garage paper towels, tube of copper anti-seize, funnel, oil drain pan, box of rubber gloves, safety glasses, one of those real bright floor lamps, magnetic pick-up tool, extending peek mirror, utility knife, goopy orange hand cleaner, bag of those red shop rags, and a hang light. Tip: wash the shop rags in a bucket with lots of soap, but never in the laundry.($50)
• Vacuum pump (get the Silverline 04050 kit - the pressure capability is important if you intend to keep your stock twins running right) $60*
• Speedbleeders for the brakes http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...howtopic=45396 $30*
• Creeper (the thing for rolling on your back) $25
• Big empty jugs that DON'T LEAK (I like the 5qt jugs of Mobil1 Oil from Wal-mart)
• Dremel tool kit with cutting wheels $40*
• Hopefully you are near an Autozone because their borrow tools are great. (free)
• Bent-nose pliers, long needle nose, a set of hose pliers* from Harborfreight ($25)
• A digital multimeter with 100MOhm resistance capability* ($50)
• Continuity tester, spool of 14ga wire, teflon tape, electrical tape, electrician's crimper/cutter tool, and an assortment of crimp-on electrical connectors. ($40)

Rig up some old towels or something to hang over the front quarter panels while you work. I have that super-bright light hanging from a shelf so it shines directly over the engine bay - ideally two would be best. I like having a workbench with a towel over it so I can disassemble little stuff without the parts rolling away. Set up your tool storage so you can access everything easily without using any workspace.

It seems like a huge list, but I think it's worth buying all of the non-asterisked items right away. Buying much of this by mail-order or ebay will save you money and you won't be tempted to buy a half-*** substitute from the only place that's open when you're in a pinch. The capability to fix basic stuff immediately is a reliability mod in itself. I can't tell you how much time I wasted by not having them all real close by and making trips to Sears, or waiting until the next time a place was open.

I totally love working on my car, and a huge amount of the enjoyment factor is having the right tools. Granted, I do procrastinate putting it up on jacks and getting dirty, but once I'm started I really enjoy solving problems and leaving it better than I started.

Dave

GoodfellaFD3S

iTrader: (213)

Great writeup, Dave

I would add a good adjustable flashlight to the list, for spots too tight for a droplight. Also, stubby rachets wrenches (in addition to the normal length) come in handy often.

One thing, what is with the 18mm's? Perhaps you meant 19 ?

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

Well it just so happens I changed my oil between then and now. And the drain plug is 19mm - so obviously that's a good one to have too. I think my Maxima has a few 18s on the suspension, maybe that's the connection.

Another trick is a backpacker's LED headlamp - perfect for when you're under the car or need to cast light into small deep areas that your looking into.

MR_Rick

iTrader: (7)

actually ramp work too, you just got to jack the car high enough to get the ramps in. I rather use ramps than jack stand since I'm claustrophobic. another good tool to have is a cherrypicker and a engine stand.

Rotarded

Additions:

SAFETY GLASSES (I know they were mentioned before )
21mm deep well socket ( for power plant frame nuts )
14mm 3/8 flex socket and 30 inch 3/8 extension ( knuckle saver if you're ever removing the trans)
10mm 1/4 flex socket ( oil pan bolts, rear intake snorkle, ACV)
Flexible wand magnet ( like no one ever drops nuts and bolts in the engine compartment)
PB blaster ( for soaking those rusty turbo/downpipe/exhaust/ suspension nuts and bolts )
Carb Cleaner ( for finding vacuum leaks )
Duct tape ( for covering open holes before you drop something down them )
Assorted zip ties and bungy cords ( for fastening and/or holding things out of the way )

mad_7tist

and honestly the vac hose job is only needed if there is a problem. where are you in fl? dont know where paradise is?

apex_sideway

Thanks everyone and a big thanks for the write up dgeesaman . I'll be much more confident in tackling all the modifications myself with the proper tools.
The man i'm buying my car from (awsome guy btw, owns all rx7 gens, very helpful with all my questions) said the hoses were hard and weren't sealing up properly. He also included new suspension off a 30k rx7 not installed; i'll have one of my mechanic friends help me with that. I can't wait til i get back so i can start working on it . . . .

Thanks,
Clayton

(P.S. I live in a town called Niceville, i put paradise because no one really belives me when i tell them i live here )

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

I just did this again the other day - if the front wheels are on the 2x12s and the rear wheels are on the ground, I can sneak the jack under to get to the crossmember. I'm going to add a 1/2"x12" sheet of plywood and glue/tack the 2x12 on top, and make the plywood about 10" longer in front. That way the car will roll onto the plywood before making the hop onto the 2x12 and keep the ramp from sliding or shifting. With the front up, you can still get under the pumpkin in the rear.

So to recap, a basic jack, 2 ramps made from 2x12s and plywood (any ramp thicker than 2"), and jackstands will get you done quickly.

Dave

apex_sideway

Hey, i'm about to order the jacks/jack stands. Here are the one's i'm going to order . . . .
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...ACHyd1_pg5.htm
http://www.drivewerks.com/catalog/sh...ACHyd1_pg2.htm

I'm going to order 3 jackstands. I was on Rob Robinette's rx7 site and it says 3 should be good enough (One for the differential and two for the "frame rails"). I'm going to go ahead and get what seems to be good equipment . . . does anyone have any other suggestions?

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

Damn! Those are some stands alright!

I've been using 4 cheap K-Mart stands for years without any problems. I've done the clutch/flywheel job, suspension work, etc, using them and no problems. Cost me about $20.

apex_sideway

Haha, i guess it is a little too much. I'll look around and get a better deal on the stands How about the jack? Is that worth the money? Thanks . . .

Mahjik

iTrader: (1)

That jack looks ok. I grabbed one from Sam's Club. It's heavy is all get out, but gives me almost 2 foot clearance under the car and was $60. It's not a low profile jack, so I use the stock jack to get some space for the front so I can get the other jack underneath.

Most of the low profile jacks didn't seem to get me the height I was looking for which is why I didn't get one.

dgeesaman

iTrader: (7)

That jack kicks ***, and based on the two sub$100 jacks I've owned, probably worth it.

The stands are overkill - RX-7s aren't heavy - for that price you could buy a couple of $15 ones and upgrade later if you find they are cumbersome. I really like the flat rubber top - if you can find a flat top on an inexpensive stand that would be ideal.

PVerdieck

There are 2 tools that everyone forgets, then screams when they don't have them.

Magnetic probe on extendible stalk.
3' Flexible metal "grabber" with claws. This is the tool that has the bottom one one end, and when you push it, a set 3? claws at the end extend and open, when you release, they grab.

Zip ties in assorted sizes (4-8")
Teflon tape.
PB Blaster.

Pepboys has a decent package with 2 stands and a jack and a creeper (wheeled back board), KMart would have the same, you can always get an extra set of jackstands for $20.

I actually recommend a 20? set of plastic ramps. Why jack up the car for oil changes, and you need the car elevated for most jacks given the lip clearance.

jimlab

Yeah. Buy four jackstands. Your life is worth at least $100, isn't it?

I use Sears Craftsman 5,000 lb. jackstands. You want a quality jackstand that isn't shoddily welded together, and it's nice to have the added strength, even if the car doesn't weigh that much. You don't have to pay $100 per stand, but you shouldn't go too cheap either.

mfigr1

Don't change the rear brake pads unless you have the special tool to turn in the piston on the caliper.

PVerdieck

Not true. There are a few ways you can use other things to do this. I think I used a needle nose pliers.