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What is a reconstructed title?

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Old 01-26-02, 10:57 PM
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What is a reconstructed title?

What is a reconstructed title? and is it worth buying car with a title like that?
Old 01-26-02, 11:10 PM
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Rebuilt/Reconstructed Title - The vehicle sustained damage and was rebuilt or reconstructed, then placed back on the road.
Is it worth buying? Depends on how you're gonna use it. The title don't mean **** if you are gonna keep the car to yourself and enjoy it. If you see it as an investment, then dont buy it.

Last edited by mightyslash; 01-26-02 at 11:13 PM.
Old 01-27-02, 12:20 AM
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That means it was totaled and 'rebuilt' and put back on the road. They have VERY little resale value, and are very hard to sell. Most rebuilt cars are never as good as they were before, and many still have big problems.
Stay away!!

woohooooo........
Old 01-27-02, 12:23 AM
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Well, not mine
Old 01-27-02, 12:30 AM
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well, If your gonna tear down the car and build it up as a race car it doesn't really matter what the title says.

However if you plan on driving it around town even just to enjoy it. I would suggest staying away from it. Even if you plan to keep it to enjoy it and not as an investment it would be good to have the option to sell it for a nice price if anything comes up, and as Jade said rebuild cars are often filled with problems. It will most likely cause you more headache then joy. At least thats my experince with them.
Old 01-27-02, 12:30 AM
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It also may be difficult to get the car insured, as most likely the car had been "totalled" and the insurance already paid out.
Old 01-27-02, 02:48 PM
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You can insure it with no problem, but if you "total" it again, they will only pay the value of a reconstructed title. Usually this is about 1/2 the actual value of the car otherwise. If you plan on selling it in the next year or two, don't consider it. They are hard to sell. If you want a cheaper car and run it, get it if the price is right. I bought an Acura Legend that was hit lightly in the front (already repaired) for 1/2 the current market value of the equivalent car without an R title. It is just my winter beater car, so I don't care about the title. Paid cash and don't need total coverage insurance on it. I have seen cars also totalled just because someone stole the seats out of it. Have you priced NEW SEATS for an RX7. They are about $3000-5000 a piece. If you had a thieft recovery (they are also sometimes titled as R title when repaired), you have no body damage and only bolt-on parts to replace.

If you are considering an R title car, have it taken to a frame technician or good body man to look over. My brother is a frame tech and checked over my car. He said the only reason they totalled it was because the parts new to replace the damage was too expensive. If you found used parts, you could repair for much less. I asked him about RX7's and he said (He works at a Mazda Dealership) that they will total an RX7 because some places will charge a much higher labor rate than standard because it is a performance/sports car. He has seen estimates for repairs at $70+ per hour. His shop rate is currently at $40 per hour. It doesn't take long to rack up a hefty charge for labor. He has seen light damaged cars totalled because of this. On the other end of the spectrum, I saw him repairing a 2000 Chevy Tahoe 4 door that I thought belonged in the junk yard. Every glass, body panel, roof panel, tire, rim, suspension, and frame was damaged in some way. The insurance company would NOT total it due to the fact that the damage sustained was only $25,000 and the vehicle was worth $32,000. As long as the damage is under the 80% retail value, they will not total it.

This also works to your advantage. If you wreck your car and it is about 85% damage, go to another shop or talk to the insurance adjuster to have a lower shop rate written into the estimate to reduce it just less than 80%. They will cut you a check for that amount and you keep the car and clean title with it.

Tim
Old 01-27-02, 09:44 PM
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something to avoid....bottom line
Old 01-28-02, 01:12 PM
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A lot of this is BS. Fact they are not worth as much for resale. However they are worth and Do sell for about 85% book value and many sell for 90-95% book value. There are 2 ways to rebuild a car, the quick cheep way, and the correct way. If the rebuild was done without taking corners, you'll have yourself a car in better condition then a new one. This is especially true with older cars like FDs. If they used factory parts, painted and welded it correctly, and all the wires and seams look correct and line up, chances are you've got yourself a solid car with no future problems. I have rebuilt several cars that were totaled for very minor reasons. There is a rather large industry buying these Salvage vehicles. You find cars totaled all the time because the dealer parts add up to such a high list value, or the labor on a frame machine is going to be so high. One thing that will total a car easily is AIR BAGS. When I look at a car I estimate $1000 a piece to replace them and mess with the sensors. Now with all these cars having Several bags... throw in a door, frame time, and painting half or all the car, you got a totaled car. My wife’s Lexus was totaled because the hit took out the tranny oil cooler. The owner drove the rest of the way home lost all the tranny fluid and burned up the tranny (9200$ for new auto from dealer + installation). That on top of a headlight and bumper and paint, totaled the car. I got it and didn't even have to pull the frame just hang new metal. 2 years later the car still runs great.

So what I’m saying, have it looked at, if it looks factory (remove plastic covers and the like) ask where and how it was hit. Try to get pictures of before. As long as they used OEM sheet metal and other parts your in good shape and buy with confidence.

Im sure my FD was totaled because of the airbag..... I got one from the trader for 65$ a lot better then my 1000$ estimate.

If it was hit in the front and the frame was pulled, take a tape measure and check the strut tower bars for squareness. Just pick a bolt hole on the firewall that is on both sides, and measure to the tops of the struts. As long as all your diagonals measure to within 1/8" you got a good straight frame. Check that wires were routed correctly and if needed spliced professionally.

I have done several cars and kept them for a while to drive it and make sure the bugs are all addressed.

I got the FD cause the price was right. I wanted this one for myself.

Greg
Old 01-28-02, 02:47 PM
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I bought a 93 Base in Dec that had a small engine fire, the fire damaged very little under the hood, injectors, engine wiring harness, ACV and some solenoids. The fire didn't burn the paint, didn't even ruin the pressure tank behind the alternator.

It was totaled due to the fire, if this car were newer (ie, more valuable) it wouldn't have been totaled.

Buyer beware buying a reconstructed title car, they aren't worth as much of course, but it REALLY depends on what was wrong with it and how it was fixed. Theft recoveries, small fires, flood (some ins companies total cars if the interior gets wet) can all be great values.

Trading in a reconstructed title car is about the worst thing you can do, dealerships generally don't want them, private market value is another thing.

Anyone want a screaming deal on a 93 Base? It is running and driving again.

Jeff
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