I want to change my oil, which oil/oil filter should i use?

 

These are the best ones.

 

lol best ive ever seen

 

This is my personal favorite.

 

I like purolator, Mazda, or fram oil filters.

I like Royal Purple Motor Oil.

 

Crisco 10W30 does it for me.

 

LOL you guys are mean

but either mobil 1 or oem filter

and castrol gtx 10w-30 for me

 

DONT EVER use a FRAM filter, anybody on this forum can tell you that

I perfer the OEM filter

 

I use fram all time. As far as oil, I am a MOBIL 1 fan but this past weekend, I was at a Prostock engine builders shop, Steve Scmidtt in Indy and saw 1 motor being Dynoed on 10 different types of oil and additives. This was a 600CI v8. The only oil that made a diff was Royal Purple, and it was a gain of 6 HP on a 1300 HP engine. I dont think you shou'ld waste your money on high priced oil in our HP range, IMO

 

What's wrong w/ Fram filters? I've used them on other cars for YEARS and never had issue w/ them. For the FD, the local shop where I get my oil changed w/ Castrol GTX uses generic filters and I've never had issue w/ them either. You change your oil w/ just about any commercially available motor oil and filter religiously every 3 months and you shouldn't have any problems.

 

oem filters

 

Theres nothing wrong with Fram. Someone here hates orange

 

what ever you use just change it when you should.

 

fram tough gaurd/mobile 1 10w-30 for me

 

No offense, but if horsepower was the only reason for synthetic oils' existence, they'd have long disappeared from the automotive market.

And just for a rebuttal example, I personally witnessed a 150-hp stock motorcycle engine gain 4 hp on a brake dyno just by switching to a full synthetic oil. I'm just giving this as an example; I'm not saying that switching to synthetic oil will gain you hp.

 

Man, this will never be resolved as long as there are motoheads...

For what it is worth, if anyone will listen......

Synthetics have the unique ability of being able to be tailored with respect to the tribology of moving parts. You don't have things like ash left over when the oil is burnt, and all engines burn some oil, if only a little.

The HP gain is the reduction of parasitics, i.e. it lessens internal friction. Not a whole lot to begin with compared to the power levels a rotary produces. This means less wear metals, less heat, and longer maintenance periods if you choose to take advantage of that.

I think it was BMW that ran a car 300,000 miles on a dyno with standard oil service using sythetics. I believe it was Mobil 1. When they pulled the engine down, it still miked out within factory specs.

By OEM filters....just remember will-fits generally are looking for ways to make the filter cheaper and make better margin. Or...buy a good racing filter brand. Fram is cheap because it is made cheap. That doesn't mean it is broken. It just means it is cheap. Regular change intervals is far more important... oil breaks down with use and loads up with particles....

 

what racing filter brands are there...?

 

One more point for tsmysak1's post. In reported studies, an oil filter is "full" after about 500 mi. of driving. That is, it tends to fill enough with debris that the system starts to bypass it. So, a larger filter would seem to be better. I use the 1st gen filters - the largest rotary filter available (that I know of, anyway). Also, as has been stated, replacement often is good.
I have been using Castol GTX 10W30. I don't like really wide weight range oils - they seem to be prone to get too thin at high temps. I don't like using 20W50 oil in a liquid cooled turbo engine - I suspect it may reduce turbo oil flow. I use 20W50 in air cooled engines because they tend to operate very hot.

 

Idemitsu oil! It's for rotaries!

 

I use Castrol 10W-30, and Bosch filters... anyone else here use Bosch? Have had good luck with them... I change mine every 1K miles anyways...

 

Penz 20/50 dino. If I remember to get a Mazda filter, I do, otherwise Fram is fine.

 

General rule: The wider the range, the more the additives. Additives change the residue that is left over when the oil is burned.

Larger filters are going to be better longer.

I don't think you should worry about turbo oil flow and 50 weight oil... This is a bit of a stretch, however, in very cold start ups, this may be a consideration....In fact, the 50 weight may have higher viscosity at running temp, thus improving oil pressure and increasing oil flow, not reducing it. Hard to say....