Can someone tell me what line the boost pill is in? There are 2 lines... on is about 4" and the other is about 6"? From what I remember it is the 6" long one but I just want to be sure. Had them replaced last year and kept the boost pill out because I wanted to play it safe without an ECU but now that I just got an Apex'i Power FC I need to put it back in. I'm trying to put a link http://www.paventi.net/~james/pics/r...engineout3.JPG to make it easier. Is it the top shorter one or the bottom lower one?

 

Here you go:

There is a pill in each of the lines.

 

Which one would have the restrictor pill to control boost? I think it is the longer (yellow dotted) one right?

 

You need the hose that goes to the wastegate actuator. The wastegate actuator is located above the precontrol actuator, but they both look similar. So I believe its the short (red-dot) hose in the pic that Rated R1 posted.

 

They both control boost. The precontrol actuator is what controls the boost in the primary turbo. It controls boost by diverting exhaust to the secondary turbo which prespools it. One the secondary turbo comes online, boost is controlled by the wastegate.

 

Ok so
Shorter (red dotted one) is the wastegate actuator
Longer (yellow dotted one) is the precontrol actuator

In order to have limited my boost to the 7 psi I have been running I must have taken out the wastegate actuator pill right? Installing it back in there will bring me back to the stock 10 psi right?
What would happen if i take out the pill from the precontrol actuator line?

 

no its the other way around, the yellow is the wastegate actuator. Pulling the pill out of the yellow line has the result of 7psi. Yes putting that pill back in will give u 10 psi or more depending on your mods.

Why r u taking the pills out to begin with?

 

OK that is what I originally thought... so
Shorter (red dotted one) is the precontrol actuator
Longer (yellow dotted one) is the wastegate actuator

Reason I took it out is that I got my engine street ported and I put on a cat back exhaust and still have the stock ECU. I dont want to run the stock boost level because there is more of a chance, with the mods that I have, to blow the engine. I recently just installed a 3" M2 downpipe and that is even more reason to keep it at 7 Psi. Coming in the mail is my Apex'i Power FC and once I get that I will be reinstalling the boost pill and tuning the car. If anyone has maps for:
Street port
Intake
Downpipe
Catback
Please let me know as the maps on this site always have a midpipe thrown in there or no streetport.

 

Ok well I got the actuator pill back in... Since I had it out last I have installed a downpipe and Power FC. I took it out for a drive and I am seeing major boost issues. When under heavy load the boost creeps up and has spiked to almost 20psi. When under not so much load it goes to 14-15psi then will settle down to 10-11. I know that this is terrible and shouldn't be happening but what can I do? I have heard a few things like mess with the precontrol line, port the wastegate etc.. but I just want to know if any one has a sure fire way to get rid of it?

 

There seems to be disagreement about which actuator is the wastegate.

According to everyone's favorite boost troubleshooting website:

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-...BigPicture.htm

the upper actuator is the wastegate, and the lower is the precontrol. That would make the red-dot-hose the one with the pill you need to replace. But both the red-dot and yellow-dot hoses should have pills. Maybe the pills got switched. Not sure what the result of switching the pills would be. Maybe someone can help you identify which pill goes in which hose?

 

Nope...
Shorter (red dotted one) is the precontrol actuator
Longer (yellow dotted one) is the wastegate actuator

I never switched the pills and I only took one pill out in the past and now I just replaced it back in the wastegate line. Now I just need to figure out a way to solve my boost spike problem!

 

You seem pretty sure that the red-dot is the precontrol. Can you tell me what I'm seeing wrong in that picture I posted? Not being a smart-***, just really want to know what my mistake is.

Does this boost "spike" occur at transition, or is the boost "creeping" after transition (or before). If it's spike then the precontrol may be the problem. If it's creep, then the wastegate is most likely to blame.

Have you read all of the boost troubleshooting site?

http://www.autosportracetech.com/RX-7/rx7stuff.htm

 

I'm sure because I originally posted this when the pill was removed and I was getting 7 Psi (this is what dave from KDR told me to do and I did about a year ago). Since I have posted this I have gotten back in there, taken both hoses off and found that the Longer (yellow) one was the one without the pill. I have replaced the pill and boost has gone back to the stock 10 Psi.

As for the boost I guess It would be creeping because it shoots up under load and not at transition. For example being at too high a gear at too low a speed... lets just say 3rd gear at 40 and flooring it or something like that... hard to tell you unless I was in the car. Boost will shoot way up and in some instances hit fuel cut. If I get on the gas I have to watch the boost gauge more than the road and try to regulate the boost buy letting off the gas a little to try to keep it at the 10 Psi.
No I haven't read the troubleshooting guide but I probably will right now.
I was thinking of getting a boost controller ASAP in order to try to solve my problem. (Profec B II or AVC-R?)

 

Alright I just read it and the only thing I can see that relates to my problem is the size of the wastegate pill... I think maybe if I replace the stock pill with one that has a larger diameter hole then I might have less of a problem. But then I realize that it will creep up real high but then it eventually settles back down to 10 Psi so...? Then I think if I get a boost controller then I get rid of the pill anyway right?

From that site:

Stock Wastegate Pill is about .062"

Stock Turbo Pre-Control is about .058"

As you add mods, general rule is just open up the WG pill to larger sizes. PC pill size is a very sensitive dial to turn.

Larger Wastegate Pill = Reduces Primary and Secondary boost and spiking

Smaller Turbo Pre-Control Pill = Reduced spike at transition, but more Primary boost and Primary spike

Typical setups:

With full intake, greddy IC, and exhaust, worked up to about .085" at the Wastegate Pill

 

Sorry to bring this back from the dead however I am attemting to install the turboxs 2 stage boost controller and cant figuer out what hose to attach it to. Yellow or Red??

Also with the turboxs do I need to just splice that line and insert each end into the correct nipple on the turboxs? Thats what the instructions say but just want to double check.

Thanks!

 

It's the shorter hose with the red dots. The longer line is for the precontrol.

 

I'm looking at the diagram that Pettit sent with my downpipe, and it shows the pill to change out is in the shorter hose (the red-dotted one in the earlier pics). They include a new pill (a Holley 122-67) to install. I am assuming this is a .067 dia. hole in the pill, which should allow near-stock levels of boost only.

 

diegodog -
Did you get this figured out? I have that same boost controller. If you want, I can take some pics - I had it installed by KDR when they were doing other work. I didn't do it, but can take a few pics if you want.

Dave

 

Yo if you could send a picture that would be great. Dave at KDR is doing all my work (except for this). He also did my hose job so when I went out ot locate the vacumm hose of course i couldnt find it. ANy pictures would help me out greatly.

I am going up there in a week or 2 to get retuned after my mid pipe install. Those guys are awesome.

Thanks br

 

http://www.robrobinette.com/boost_controller.htm

 

That is correct... an easy way is to just say that the lower actuator is the pre-spool and the upped left actuator is the wastegate.


Remember, tighten down the prespool controller to raise primary boost and keep the pre-spool of the secondary turbo down. If you loosen the pre-spool controller, the primary boost will come down, BUT the exhaust air will be directed to the secondary turbo and you will have a spike when the transition comes.


Hope that helped.

BTW, having two MBC's is the best way to go, so you can keep spike down AND control full boost. I bought and built two from McMaster Carr (hardware/ industrial parts supplier) for a total of $36.... can't beat that one bit for a ball and spring MBC!

 

I'm kinda new to the forum and I can't figure out how to attach pics without going over the size limit. I can go out and snap a couple if you want and I'll e-mail to you, or someone can give me an education on how to do this right now.
The Rob Robinette site listed above is probably better than what I can show you, but I'll still do it if you want.
Suggestion - save some $$ and put the midpipe on yourself. That is a very easy task (4 bolts). KDR charged me $64.00 to install the boost controller-after my car had a 16lb spike on the dyno

 

1234rotor, If you wouldn't mind sharing. Did you improve on the DYI MBC?
http://www.geocities.com/chmwatson/FAQs/mbc.html
And which spring do you buy from Mcmaster Carr?

Thanks

 

I bought a pressure relief valve from them and a female npt hose barb, then a 90 degree hose elbow. It is much simpler to make than the one in the link you posted, but it only works to 20 psi with the spring supplied.

It's great for guys like me that run the stock twins.

I will get the part numbers when I find the receipt, and I will post how to make them.... it is easy.

 

12324rotor, thanks it will be great to have that info.
I am running stock seq twins with DP and RB Dual Catback and
I'm trying to control a boost spike at transition.

Thanks again.