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Old 09-21-06, 06:09 PM
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What the hell

Went on a 21/2 hour drive this afternoon, a little spirited at times. Noticed as I pulled back into town my first 2 stops, the idle was choppy. Pulled into the garage, and left it sit to idle and it sounded the same, idle was also a little lower than normal.

It was running fine under even light throttle, and just a touch of the pedal brought it out of it's choppy idle. Boost was fine, pulled just as hard as it always has. No smoke, no smells, did a quick check and couldn't see any loose hoses.

Any ideas? It was heat soaked as hell, and I've never actually driven it longer than about 45-60 minutes in one ride. Never got above 92c during the entire ride.
Old 09-21-06, 06:18 PM
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exhaust overheat

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Compression check, that will indicate a healthy motor internally. Then I would go check for loose hoses.
Old 09-21-06, 06:20 PM
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What is a decent to good compression reading?
Old 09-21-06, 06:50 PM
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I would also be looking at vacuum hoses. But definately do a compression check.
Old 09-21-06, 07:23 PM
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exhaust overheat

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Err, I think around 100-120. With a normal compression gauge you are just looking at ticks, and make sure you get 3 ticks of the same compression for each rotor. If it falls to around 75psi or lower on one face you will need a rebuild. If you chuck a seal you will see because one tick will be much lower than the others.

Look at the FAQ, they have a whole section devoted to it.
Old 09-21-06, 07:30 PM
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exhaust overheat

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Also, replace your plugs. One may have been terminally fouled. You can get a new set of NGK's for like 24$, just make sure you put the leading and trailing plugs in the right places.
Old 09-21-06, 07:34 PM
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Only a noob here, but why don't you check your idler vavle
Old 09-21-06, 07:51 PM
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And that would be where? (idler valve)

You know, the spark plugs almost sound about right.....this bitch is running rich as hell (possible fouled plugs) and now that you say that, I would almost bet money on it. Maybe I'm just wishful thinking....but it is just acting like that's what it is. I'm just ******* a mess right now as i just bought that damn thing less than 2 months ago, and yes I knew what I was getting into, but damn I wanted to put more than 1k miles on it before I had to start messing with it

Educate me on leading a trailing plugs. Dude, I'm learning so go easy on me.

And changing the plugs....is this something I can do in my garage without having to remove a ton of stuff to get to them?

Last edited by spandy; 09-21-06 at 07:55 PM.
Old 09-21-06, 08:05 PM
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Okay, I found how to get to the plugs....no biggie there. But like I said, leading a trailing plugs....do you mean just make sure I hook them up to the right spot (which is easy if you do them one at a time!!!) or does the leading require a different type of spark plug than the trailing?

And how long should this take? I was guessing less than an hour based off of this.....

changing plugs
Old 09-21-06, 08:34 PM
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why would you need to change your spark plugs when a touch of throtle it was fine and when you got on it your boost was fine? Only just a noob to rotaries.
Old 09-21-06, 08:37 PM
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Damn.....no one in town had any (plugs). I gotta wait 5 ******* days for them to get here. What a crock of ****.
Old 09-21-06, 08:40 PM
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Maybe I'm just wishful thinking, but it is acting just like when I bought my motorcyle. Idled like **** (2 stroke) damn near died on quick throttle blips, exhaust note wasn't right, but ran like hell on the throttle. Plug was fouled on the bike, and that was it. I thought I had bought a bike that had a cracked piston or something.

God I hope that's all it is.
Old 09-21-06, 09:08 PM
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I accidentally started a new topic trying to reply here.

Anyway, my pfc commander says my trailings at idle are at -9 deg and my leadings are at -19 deg.

Does that answer my problem, because I thought they were suppose to be the same.
Old 09-21-06, 10:01 PM
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Originally Posted by windom
Err, I think around 100-120. With a normal compression gauge you are just looking at ticks, and make sure you get 3 ticks of the same compression for each rotor. If it falls to around 75psi or lower on one face you will need a rebuild. If you chuck a seal you will see because one tick will be much lower than the others.

Look at the FAQ, they have a whole section devoted to it.

LOL, I think if you lose a seal there will be two dead faces and only one good one.
Old 09-22-06, 06:04 AM
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exhaust overheat

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Anyway, two of the plugs are a different length, and have a blue stripe on the tip of them. They will also say "L" or "T" on each, one for leading and one for trailing. I believe the shorter plugs with the blue stripe (trailing) are on the top. Search for a thread on changing spark plugs to make sure I'm correct. Just thread em in, get em snug then tighten them in a good 1/2 turn.
Old 09-22-06, 09:18 AM
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for each rotor the plug nearest the ground is LEADING (lower) and the one nearest the hood is TRAILING (top)

the TRAILING spark plugs are the ones with the two rings on them if im not mistaken, just ask when you get the plugs and they will mark them for you
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